MoJoJoSSsc03

iTrader: (1)

ok so i just bought my car from a dealer(kinda a back a$$ dealer) and i really dont trust bringin my car back to their shop.... so i have been driving my car for bout 2 in a half weeks now, not a single prob, everything sounds fine, but then yesterday morning i started the car up and it kinda sounded a bit funny on the start up, but i figured, its just a cold morning, i start to drive it and it sounds kinda funny, then the supercharger stops working and then the check engine light comes on, then the HUD says engine power loss, so i pull over leave the car at idle, and i open the hood, slight squeaking from the belts and a bit of some knocking. so i turn the car off, let it be for a min, turn it back on, start to drive, then it sounds like its miss firing. so im freakin out by now and i turn it off again, wait a couple of mins, turn it back on, and then out of now where probs dissapears, check engine lights gone, supercharger is working and i haven had a single prob yet. its been 24 hrs and bout 50 miles driven and no prob. should i take it to the dealer and have the NON ASE mechanics take a look at it or any1 have a solution?
the car is 06, 38k miles, 40% oil life, 91 gas used only in it, complete stock, nothing upgraded or done to it since purchase on 18 dec 2010.

07SSYellow

iTrader: (7)

take it to a chevy dealership, the code was more than likely stowed in the ECU somewhere and can be recalled....and how in the hell did the supercharger stop working? u mean it didnt boost? because if it stopped and ur engine was running it would have shredded your belt since your surpintine belt runs the blower....maybe ur car whent into limp mode for some weird reason....who knows

ULWizSS

iTrader: (5)

Your most likely throwing a cel for a bad sensor which is putting you into power reduced mode. Goto a autozone and get your code history and post them up. Then we can go from there.

alleycat58

x2 with the motor running a supercharger cannot just "stop" running, the belt is going to at least try to spin. If the blades on the SC seize, then you'd shred the belt and wouldn't be going anywhere.

You need to know what codes it's throwing first and go from there. There are a million and one reasons why it could go into limp mode.

Did you know the previous owner? If not I highly doubt it's been kept stock it's entire life. Someone may have had it tuned and then the dealership reflashed the computer, which would explain shitty performance and/or limp mode.

MoJoJoSSsc03

iTrader: (1)

ya i meant stopped boosting, i didnt mean stop running all in all lol... my b, anyways, yea i was thinkin bout taking it to autozone to get the light checked, it turned off but i can def get the code checked out. i have a "30 day" warranty from the place i bought the car im jus really really not feeling the whole "bring it in and let us check it out" vibe their giving me.... i really appreciate the info, it jus freaked out a bit... has any1 else had a similar prob?

and i didn kno the previous owner, carfax said that it was repoed from the last guy, i have seen on the car tho, 2 sets of mitchmatch tires, the water guard on the drivers side where the intake is, missing, and thats actually bout it, everything else has been functioning just fine though.

alleycat58

No boost = limp mode. SHouldn't let you go much above 30 or so MPH. You definitely need to know what the code is before you can start troubleshooting. I mean you can do basic stuff, check the plugs, clean the MAF, etc and see if that keeps it from coming back, but you really need to know what that code was before you do anything.

MoJoJoSSsc03

iTrader: (1)

no prob ill get it checked today, i kinda wanted to go the route of "outa sight outa mind" but not with this car, once i get the codes ill post it up and let yall know if i have any other probs w/ it.

MoJoJoSSsc03

iTrader: (1)

ok i went last night to autozone and he ran the code... he didnt give me the number for reference, but he said it was a pedal code error, or somehting of that nature, basically he said because the pedal is spring loaded w/ the throttle, something glitched and made it sputter and act all wierd. i haven had a prob since 2 days ago, no check engine light so im guessing case closed?

has any1 else had a similar prob before?

SuperchargedSS

Why wouldn't he give you the code (s)? I don't just take someone's word.

No this doesn't sound right.... at all.

Get your own ODB II....

alleycat58

Yeah they should always give you a code number.

MoJoJoSSsc03

iTrader: (1)

ya i meant to ask for it but he was in a rush and i didn have a pen... i personally prefer advanced auto in my town anyways... ill get on that and check back on this.. thanx again.

alleycat58

It could be a problem with the throttle position sensor. Maybe be going bad. Definitely get it re-scanned and try to get the actual code this time.

MoJoJoSSsc03

iTrader: (1)

ok it took me a couple days to get back to finding out the prob, but it just happened again this morning and i went to advanced auto and they gave me the code numers this time... it threw a p2135-tps, throttle positioning sensor, and a P2101-tac moto circuit.... i searched for lsj CEL codes and theres no sticky that i found, but someone made a sticky on the LNF Cel's, will that work the same? prob not rite? any1 get this error b4 or know how to fix?

ecot3c inside

iTrader: (11)

how did you know it was knocking?

MoJoJoSSsc03

iTrader: (1)

opened the hood heard a lil tappin as it was at idle... the oil is at like 30% im bout to go change it, i fig thats prob the reason for that, ill find out after the change... but the check engine light is still on, last time it went off, it drove about 25 miles just fine this morning aftr its lil fit w/ the throttle and wat not.. it kept reving to 1100rpm and then dropping and jumping back up, then it started puttering like it wasnt receiving its gas and if i pressed on the peddle nothing happend it just kept puttering so i turned it off and waited, opened the hood had my gf turn the car on, and "poof" it decides to wanna work right again... idk what it is..

rnjmur

P2101 Control Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance ECM, PCM
P2135 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1-2 Correlation ECM, PCM

Both of these point to either a throttle position sensor or a throttle body problem, that is where I would start looking.

MoJoJoSSsc03

iTrader: (1)

^ ok i appreciate it... ill check the forum for it...

stonny9

I had those same codes and i have seen a few other post where people had the same codes too. It always turned out to be the throttle body. I even replaced my pcm first as I got a cheap one locally and the problem persisted.

Bring it back to the place you bought it as the part is usually $50-100. Unless it turns out to be ur pcm. All you have to do is unbolt/plug the old one and bolt/plug the new one back in. Mine gradually got worse over time to where I couldnt even get a block away before it went into reduced power and clearing the code it would come back up 10 sec later. I cleared to codes with my interceptor but it always came back.

MoJoJoSSsc03

iTrader: (1)

hey i really appreciate it.. ill look into that.. thank man.

insylem

The guy at Advanced showed me the OBDII scanner screen when I had them run it.

ryansalazan

iTrader: (6)

just for fun check your throttle cable connector... it seems to be very common with the people i know with lsj's that have a car randomly go into limp mode...

MoJoJoSSsc03

iTrader: (1)

well... today i took off the stock intake and looked at the throttle... if the car is in on the ACC mode, or when the key is turned all the way on but engine off, the throttle flutters and you can hear it rattling like a wind up toy or something, and if you press the gas pedal, it moves slightly, and when i turned the engine on, it slightly opened then shut then opend and shut, w/o the gas pedal being pressed, it of course is causing the car to sputter drop rpms and jump to 1k then drop again.. i pushed on the valve when the car was off and it gave resistance but moved back into place... so would this be the throttle body its self, PCM, or is this the cable like Ryan says? hear a couple different things, i kinda wanna get it pinpointed so i can have the dealer replace it w/o running around and checking unnecessary stuff...

MoJoJoSSsc03

iTrader: (1)

ok for anyone who is curious or runs into these probs in the future, i had 8 Cel codes and come up on he engine they are as follows, p1681, p2119,1516,2110,2135,p2228, and p0172, these codes all flashed, i took it to good ol Chevy dealer, and they cleared the codes and it ran like normal, but 4 hrs later, bam! they back again! and so now its spending the night there cuz the dealer is scratching its head while the car is sittin there on the diagnostic computer... ill update tomorrow w/ what the actual prob turns out to be..

rnjmur

P0172 Fuel Trim System Rich ECM, PCM
P1516 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance- ECM, PCM
P1681 Control Module Throttle Position (TP) System Performance PCM
P2119 Throttle Closed Position Performance ECM, PCM
P2135 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1-2 Correlation ECM, PCM
P2228 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage PCM

I don't see a P2110, so that one maybe a typo.

I am still guessing a bad TB. Could be a bad ECU as well, but that is less likely than the TB actually being bad. The BARO and Rich codes are usually caused by an intake leak, though they could be caused by a TB problem with the boost bypass.

booda_33

start with replacing everything attached to your TB. if that doesn't fix it then move to the PCM. i would just go piece by piece with everything attached to your throttle body