ok so first with the problem, i've posted it before..
Car lacks any real power, feels like it's bogging down all the time...
go into boost it's slow to get there and rpms rise slow as boost shows full.
Every now and then get a backfire in second shifting to third.
Super charger does appear to have a slight grinding noise at times mainly when it just decides it wants to do it.
On start up car makes a tapping sound for about 40 seconds only after engine is cold.

List of things replaced / fixed...
Air filter AEM dry flow inside the stock air box
evap purge silonoid valve (in engine bay)
boost controller
plugs
tb gasket
boost hoses
fuel filter = autozone filter
tensioner pulley
tensioner
belt
oil changed every 3k with fram oil filter and mobile1 5w30 just switched to castrol syntec 5w30
helicoil in #3 - was in before I got it but came out with plug and I had the dealer redo it and seal it.
dealer ran computer diag on it, says it seemed fine but updated ecu for jumpy idle tsb.
heat exchanger water pump = failed so I replaced
still have some problems getting air out of the system...any ideas on that one guys?
new glass pack and flowmaster 40 series on it - btw it's fkn loud - gonna get the glass pack off and go for a different type of resonator. It is very deep except when you get up top.
Inspected cat when glass pack was installed it looked fine.
Doesn't appear to have any vacume leaks - tested with starter fluid and no change in rpm's.
Vac sets at 19/20 at idle.



Well guys thats all I know...any ideas?
Other then glass pack, flowmaster and aem filter my car is stock with 83k on the clock.

 

Mods?

Ever do a leakdown/compression test?

 

no mods other then glass pack flowmaster 40 series and aem dry flow filter.

nope never have, dealer said they would check all that **** when they redid the helicoil.

also car doesnt smoke, doesn't use oil and has no fluid leaks.

Could my super charger just be fuxx3d?

 

+1 for a compression test.

 

what kind of plugs and for the first thing.........ummmmmm u wanna explain the boost controller? i mean u did say you have a supercharger am i the only one who caught that? lol

oh and any vid?
does it sound like this?...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEPw78lAPl8

 

x2...

 

ok the boost controler is located right next to the evap purge silonoid.
directly to the right of the head there is the evap purge silonoid then to the right of that the boost controler.

The car has autolite doube plats in it.
But it did do this before the plugs as well as after.


ok nope doesn't sound like the video above.

 

Just wondering how many miles you have on the car, what year you have. You could try unplugging the mass air flow sensor, the engine will use speed/desity to run. If the problem goes away thats your problem. If you have alot of miles and the problem is worse when hot could be a plugged cat converter, need to check exhaust back pressure for that.

 

IC pump could be bad causing the car to pull timing

 

Ok boost control module is what it's called.

Cleaned MAF and it is fine, tried the unplug car sputters like crazy and wants to die.
Cat was checked when I had my exhaust done, it was fine.

Just replaced the IC pump, however I still haven't got all the air purged from it yet.
Seems that it is being a PITA however it did this before when the old pump was still working.


Anyone have a good way of getting air out of the system?

 

Just to double check this is a stock car basically right? Stock tune, stock injectors, stock pulley?

 

yup no tune or pulley change or anything

 

If you are still under warranty try taking it to the dealership, however with no codes being thrown your going to be hard pressed to find an answer unless the compression test shows something. The other option is tossing it on a dyno to see if you are actually losing power or if its just in your head.

 

take off the plug on top of the h/e and that will bleed the air out.

 

well just went back out and checked my fluid level for my pump...
left work it was about half way up the neck..
just went out and checked now and it was almost to the top of the neck.
This morning when I went out to go to work and checked it it was all the way down and I had to fill it.
This is a new pump 2 days and it is flowing.


Where is the plug ontop of the h/e?


Out of warranty... 83k on it...


Well I know im loseing power and it's not in my head..trust me on this one it is that easy to tell.

 

Cleaned MAF and it is fine, tried the unplug car sputters like crazy and wants to die.
Cat was checked when I had my exhaust done, it was fine.

Sorry not to beat a dead horse but the engine will spudder after unplugging the MAF until DTC sets, only then will engine run with speed/density. Clean MAF doesnt mean good MAF at your mileage.

 

hell yeah dude never new that plug was there after all the threads i read about changing this and bleeding it no one mentioned this plug wtf lol


as far as the maf goes, I did this before the dealer the dealer said all readings from it was good.

 

ok for those who think the car is pulling timing im pretty sure ur right.....
now why?
Seems like its running way rich on start up and while it is bogging down or going into boost.
Intake and sc are now running pretty cool now that I got the air bled out of the system...
so why would it still be pulling timing?

So after I changed the water pump car started to seem like it was running right, was much stronger and didn't feel like it was bogging down...so my hose started leaking...my intake started getting hotter, and it started doing it again....so I replaced the hose but had trouble getting the air out, now seems like i have and the intake and sc are running much cooler but still feels like it's pulling timing?


Who all is running straight water, or water with just a wee bit of dexcool?
Has it been safe for u? Have you been running cooler temps through your intake?

 

compression test time

 

update: Temperatures here have changed, below 80 now...
and with that my car is back to running normal so it seems..
on start up the ticking is no longer there...and my car runs boost like it should and the feel of power has returned..
so can anyone think of anything that would cause my problems during higher temperatures?
Remember all these problems were apparent from the very start up of the car during higher temps and continued while driving...
now with the lower temps from start up the car is running normal and continued while driving.

 

what are your iat2 temps?

 

At this point no clue, nothing to check it with, car is stock.
Will be getting hptuners or a interceptor soon.

But if you think about it at of min of startup it shouldn't matter if everything is at almost ambient temp.

 

did you replace the fluid with the correct ratio of water to fluid? to much water might be causing your temps climbing

 

Was running 50/50
Just switched it to like 90% water today...