Gotcha

 

que? that would make a Spec V like a mid 14 second car. at best stock they are a low 15 second car.

do you mean you pass them once they hit the brakes? if u got your ass kicked from 60-115 you pretty much lost

 

spec v's can hit mid 14's stock.... and i dont see how it is possible to start pulling that hard in fourth unless he hits his governer or runs out of gear

 

are you talking SENTRA Spec V or Altima Spec V cuz theres no way in hell a car with 2.4 power (Sentra) is getting mid 14's stock

and if you truly do mean 1 1/2 seconds faster in the 1/4 you definitely are talking about the Altima SE-R so nevermind, even then a raised governor is not gonna help you!

 

i actually didnt even read the thread....LOL. im kinda bored.

 

ive seen Ls run like 15.5 with those mods. 14.9 seems like a stretch

 

i don't think 14's are attainabe for the 2.2 w/o FI

it's barely attainable (if at all) with the 2.4's w/o FI also

 

you can hit it without FI, u just need to cut a little weight and have a great suspension setup for the track + sticky rubber

 

has anyone done it yet?

 

The key word here is easily. Without n2o not its not. 2.4's are having a hard enough time as it is.

 

well along with the cams and tune,Im having a port and polish done tommorro, so I would go out on a limb and say if the track was still open up here I might have a good shot at 14s

 

not in a Cobalt/Ion

 

IMO I think that even with just CAI, header back exhaust a stiffy and some poly mounts thats its possible to pull 15.00 14.90

 

not on stock rubber or imo anything less than dr's. you have to realize how much of a jump high 15's to high 14's is. it is the difference between most suv's and say an rsx-s, my car, or something along the same straight line performance range. it is a very big change in performance. hey, it could happen i guess, but in my opinion it is not going to.

 

lol, well i'd just be happy with 14.99

 

Ohh I dont know. Im at 15.100 now. I can almost guarantee you that once my new CAI installed and the HPTuners tune gets done just right ill be hitting 14.9's once I get a set of Nitto Neogens so I can hook up better.

 

your sig says you have ported and polished head....that will do alot.

 

what exactly is a port and polish? and where did you get it done + cost?

 

porting is increasing the size of any hole usually for larger pistons..but you can port throttle bodies, intake manifolds, exaust manifolds, and im sure others but those are the most common

 

P&P on a head usually involves cleaning up and wideing up the exhaust and intake ports, smoothing them out and cleaning everything up. I'm sure someone else could give a little more detail.

 

you're thinking of overbore of the cylinders, not port work, which increases displacement

you don't need to hog these ports out much at all, just clean them up, and they'll flow well with a good cam grind.

lol at the posts in this thread

 

in lamemans terms...port+polish= greater flowing heads. more air getting in+more getting out= more power. alot more than most bolt ons will do.

 

thanks for your post,since Im a dumb as, you just explained it for me since my cams,valves and other **** is being done they are cleaning up my head as we speak

 

At the risk of sounding like a know-it-all-jackass (I've done all of this before). Porting and polishing your cylinder head's intake and exhaust ports is really nothing more than cosmetic on a street engine turning 6500 RPM -- our cylinder heads have nice open passagesways that provide all the flow you'll need. That said, there's nothing wrong with P+P if you already have your cylinder head off for other reasons -- it just doesn't make sense to go through the expense only to P+P. There are other things to consider as well: valve pocket clean-up, this is where you grind away material behind the valve to remove minor obstructions, sharp edges, and turns. A good machine shop can "open up" the valve pocket by cutting the valve opening within .040" of the valve seat, then put in a three or five angle valve seat cut. You could go a step further and increase the size of the valves (if the combustion chamber can handle it). When increasing the size of the valve you also have to take into account how close the valve is to the cylinder wall -- if the valve opens and there is no room between the valve and the cylinder wall the flow is seriously obstructed. Port matching is also a serious help -- if you've taken off your 2.2 exhaust manifold it is not port matched. On mine the #1 and #4 ports were off by up to 15% (look at the residue on the exhaust manifold to understand what I'm referring to. The GMPP manifold was a lot better but could still use a little finessing. Use a new gasket to port match the exhaust (header or manifold). First check the mating of the gasket to the cylinder head ports and open grind the ports to just meet the opening of the gasket then align the header/manifold to the cylinder head mark the gasket position to the header/manifold then grind the ports of the header/manifold to the gasket. OOps -- long enough....

 

funny the timing of your writeup,you are exactly right,since the damage is done im going the route you have explained, stepping up one size for the valves and going with the copper gluides,these ecotec if you bend the valves good chance you screwed the guides as well,no i dont expect any gains but I had to have it done anyways, no thanks to my buddy trying to do my cams. and no you dont sound like a know-it-all I for one apprciate the fact that you have taken the time to elaborate for me,once again thanks dude