Autometer Oil Temp. Gauge Review (Sport Comp II)(Electric)
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Autometer Oil Temp. Gauge Review (Sport Comp II)(Electric)
Autometer Sport Comp II Electric Oil Temperature Gauge Review
Installed my Oil Temp. gauge today so I thought I should write a review.
I'm satisfied with the performance and apperance of this gauge. Very good quality and fits perfect next to my garrett boost gauge.
I strongly recommend you use slit tubing to protect the 2 wires that go to the sending unit especially where they run inside the engine bay.
Here's what I suggest you get if your planning to do this yourself.
- Autometer Sport Comp II Electric Oil Temp. guauge (Part#3656) $117.50
- Autometer Black Mounting Cup (Part # 2204) $13.99
- Autometer Metric Adapter (Part#2278) $7.50
Materials & Tools
- Permatex Thread Sealant (For a leak-free install)
- 6mm. Allen Wrench with T-Style Handle
- 18-22 Gauge Connectors (Min. 6 Pcs.)
- Ajustable wrench
- Coat Hanger (Makes fishing the signal wire through the firewall easier)
- Zip Ties (Min. 12 Pcs.)
- Add a Circuit (Fuse Tap) For safely tapping into the fuse panel.
Optional:
- 40 Amp Bosch Style Relay with Harness (14 Gauge Harness)
- 14 Gauge Wire Spool (25')
- 14 Gauge Eyelet (For battery Terminal)
- 14-16 Gauge Connectors
30 Amp relay would have been enough only I plan on adding 2 more gauges in the future.
I'm using the relay to get power from the battery and that powers my 2 gauges (Boost, Oil Temp) so I don't overload the circuits on the interior fuse panel. Also I can later install more gauges (Oil Pressure, Water Temp) to that 12v. source.
If you have many 12v. accesories like me I suggest you do the same and run a Hot line from the battery
Install is fairly easy until it comes time to start working on the head. (Stop Laughing)
I meant that the plug is on there VERY tight!
Used a 6 mm. alley wrench with an extension for extra torque and it finally broke free busting my knuckles.
Here's some pics. Yes I know my windsheild is dirty!
Installed my Oil Temp. gauge today so I thought I should write a review.
I'm satisfied with the performance and apperance of this gauge. Very good quality and fits perfect next to my garrett boost gauge.
I strongly recommend you use slit tubing to protect the 2 wires that go to the sending unit especially where they run inside the engine bay.
Here's what I suggest you get if your planning to do this yourself.
- Autometer Sport Comp II Electric Oil Temp. guauge (Part#3656) $117.50
- Autometer Black Mounting Cup (Part # 2204) $13.99
- Autometer Metric Adapter (Part#2278) $7.50
Materials & Tools
- Permatex Thread Sealant (For a leak-free install)
- 6mm. Allen Wrench with T-Style Handle
- 18-22 Gauge Connectors (Min. 6 Pcs.)
- Ajustable wrench
- Coat Hanger (Makes fishing the signal wire through the firewall easier)
- Zip Ties (Min. 12 Pcs.)
- Add a Circuit (Fuse Tap) For safely tapping into the fuse panel.
Optional:
- 40 Amp Bosch Style Relay with Harness (14 Gauge Harness)
- 14 Gauge Wire Spool (25')
- 14 Gauge Eyelet (For battery Terminal)
- 14-16 Gauge Connectors
30 Amp relay would have been enough only I plan on adding 2 more gauges in the future.
I'm using the relay to get power from the battery and that powers my 2 gauges (Boost, Oil Temp) so I don't overload the circuits on the interior fuse panel. Also I can later install more gauges (Oil Pressure, Water Temp) to that 12v. source.
If you have many 12v. accesories like me I suggest you do the same and run a Hot line from the battery
Install is fairly easy until it comes time to start working on the head. (Stop Laughing)
I meant that the plug is on there VERY tight!
Used a 6 mm. alley wrench with an extension for extra torque and it finally broke free busting my knuckles.
Here's some pics. Yes I know my windsheild is dirty!
Last edited by pacific cobalt; 01-26-2009 at 10:22 AM.
#2
Looks good..But if I were you get rid of the plastic line that is supplied with it..And instal a SS line..My plastict line would leak from the block side...from the heat..What are you gettin for readings..
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I don't want a hot oil line going into the interior.
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I also noticed that running the engine 2.5 minutes did not lower the oil temp at all.
Turbo Timer would be a waste of money. Probably because the Garrett Kit is water and oil cooled.
Yes it's real carbon fiber with a protective epoxy layer. Not the cheap CF imitation crap that fades and peels off.
Costs about $165 for the whole dash kit from NYC Dashes
My favorite part is the shifter console
Here's a pic for you since you helped me out a few times
Last edited by pacific cobalt; 01-26-2009 at 09:38 PM.
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