I have a few questions about replacing the clutch... I've never had to get a clutch replaced until now. My buddy todd was driving my drunk ass around, and i guess he managed to **** the clutch up. It grabs a little bit. I can get the car going, but once it get to about 2800 rpms it slips real bad.

My questions.
I've seen two types of clutches... exedy and spec. Which one is a better buy?

As of now I think I'm looking at the exedy satge one, or the spec stage 3... any help or more options will help out greatly

 

I think there is a big difference between those two clutches. the Exedy stg1 is an organic better than stock clutch The Spec STG3 is a mulitpuck carbon-metallic clutch thats much closer to race level stuff. I think the Spec STG2 is a good choice if youre looking for a big step above stock, otherwise either companies STG1 should be good as a general replacement thats a step above stock

 

Good info. I would state though the stage 2+.

A clutch is one of those items it take a long time and possibly a lot of labor $ to install. Get a good one, that way if you mod more in the future, you are ready for it. Doing a clutch 2 times is not the best thing for cost/time reasons.

 

so a stage 2, possibly the 2+ clutch is the way i want to go than... I was just looking at prices, and i seen that the spec stage 3 was cheaper then their stage 2... Thanx for the info guys

 

That would be a good starting thinking process. PM us with any questions, incase we dont get to this post right away.

 

I don't know know to much about clutches, and how they really work, so what dpes mutipuck mean and what does it do?

 

I like the Spec 2+, but my problem with it on a 2.2(or any street driven car) is the fact that one side of the disc is carbon. Carbon doesnt like to grip when its cold, it needs to be hot to have the proper friction. Its hard to keep a clutch properly heated on the street. If youre really rough on clutches,or are planning on getting real aggressive with this car it could work, but if youre smooth, and tend to make your stuff last, I think youd be shooting youself in the foot by going with it.

Multipuck in short means that there are just a few area s"pucks" that do all the work, as opposed to having a full disc. The way they do this is by using much more durable aggressive materials, the problem is that they use a stronger pressure plate to clamp down on it(rough on your hydraulics) and that the materials(carbon) that they use dont like to work cold, they actually SLIP unless hot, so you can actually wear out a race crabon clutch by driving it nice on the street.

 

Well I learn something new everyday... and to day's topic is clutches... I just did some research on wikipedia to kinda learn how they work and they various types...

ok I'm reading about the exedy stage 2 Cerametallic clutch... it says "EXEDY cerametallic clutches are designed to handle the abuse of high powered modified engines." I guess thats a more then I need going by what it says, but is that really too much for 2.2 lightly moded

 

I just ordered my hypersingle.....that seems to be the top pick

 

ok so now i have another question.... will either of the stage 2 clutches work with my stock flywheel or will i have to upgrade that too?

 

Both STG2 clutches should work fine with your flywheel, you should get it machined though if possible

 

So you think that a STG2 is too much for the street Maven? i am going to need a clutch eventually, but haven't looked into it at all. The stage1 would probabyl be best seeing as how the driveablility is close to stock, but with better holding power.

 

Nah, stage2 on a blown car is probably fine for some people. But most people would be fine with STG1 imo

 

im keeping mine it costs about $60 to get it resurfaced and is a must! not really worth it imo to get a lightweight one

 

My clutch is also not going to last much longer. I'm going with spec stg.2 when it starts to slip. Just be ready for a bill for 7 hours labour from your mechanic. It's not an easy job to change a clutch on a cobalt.

 

Wayne, I paid 50 bucks to get the flywheel resurfaced here in Va beach

 

True, most FWD cars take 5-8 hours to change one out..

 

ok so the the spec kits do not have a throwout bearing, does anyone have apart number, i assume i can get one on GMpartsdirect or at the dealer.

 

i couldnt find one on gmpartsdirect today so my guess would be the dealer.

 

the bearing is in a kit with the slave cylinder i think i'm working on finding out... i think the part number is:
12583857

 

alrite hmm but i dont need to change my slave quite yet

 

it's the only way to get the TOB since it is not sold alone... I'm not sure if that is the correct part or not... still tryin to find out