x8xViperx6x

iTrader: (1)

Okay, its been a while since ive been back on here! Need some help and input.

Long story short, AZ got flooded, car was totaled, sucked up water, vaporlocked motor. Bought it back from insurance company, now time to build.

I have no internal mods currently, although it is an 06 gen 1 motor, 2.2L supercharged with the M62 w/ 2.9" pulley, 60# siemens injectors, Injen cold air, CIA custom headers, 3" CIA downpipe, hi flo cat custom exhaust, Z3 heat exchanger, w/ dual pass.

Im looking into getting a new motor to build now. I want to build the internals first, then cam (street/moderate cam) it and beef up the valvetrain, then put all the mods on current motor onto the new one. Then drop it all in.

Question are:
How far can I go, powerwise, before reliability goes out the window? I just want a solid motor, I dont want to blow it up.

Looking for a gen II motor, will it have any plug n play issues re installing into my car? I dont want to do any MAJOR custom work.

Any other concerns anyone can think of ill be running into while building? trying to plan things out before build.

06_ion2

The trans is the weak point, seriously I'd rather spend money on a different project If I did it again

andrewcarr1993

iTrader: (5)

On any gen II block you'd need to reuse your current head. The Gen II L61 came out on the 07's and they changed the cams (added a sensor) and valve cover. The tranny is actually quite strong, if you compare it to what most other FWD cars can hold it's great, not to mention if it does go they only cost ~$200, I would like to add an LSD and higher final drive ratio on my F23 next year.

06_ion2

The problem is it's not easy to replace a trans by yourself in a garage. The booked rate is like 8 hours. These trans don't handle much abuse at all though.

Spanky's Monkey

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, my original 4t45e didn't care for the dd/race abuse, the 75 shot wet and ultimately died under the 14 psi turbo build. I'm happy as a pig in **** with my LSD race trans though. You gotta pay to play in this game.

06_ion2

I bet if I had a lsd it wouldn't have violent torque steer.

Spanky's Monkey

iTrader: (6)

On the s256 I absolutely loved the launch and rolling on the power through corners. Wouldn't have it any other way now.

06_ion2

The little lag it had makde traction very very good. The fun part I enjoyed was giving people rides and only boosting to 8lbs and saying hold on. If you got it spooled to 8 it would spike fast to 17+ when floored and hooked great. I don't miss the trq steer though.

x8xViperx6x

iTrader: (1)

Damn I forgot I posted this thread. Anyways still in the market for a new motor. Still debating on what motor to buy. L61 or LAP. I did read about the heads being different but other than that will it be a direct fit(plug n play, wiring harness)?

As for the tranny I'm not too worried at the moment. I do have LSD. I also have a spare tranny sitting in my garage too!

Goal is about 350-400hp.
Will be building internals & valvetrain first.

I have a couple questions for you guys:
Im considering going turbo, but not as familiar with turbo setups. What all would I need to change/accommodate a turbo setup? My current set up is listed on OP.

Obviously buying new motor is step one, how much of the old aftermarket parts can I still use?

Would an LNF be a better motor to start with?

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

You will not be able to get the LNF running in that car.

If your power goal is that high, turbo.
Grab a s256et turbo builder kit and go to town.

x8xViperx6x

iTrader: (1)

I kinda figured that about the LNF, that would have been too easy haha.

That's the turbo I've had my eye on. Extended tip bullseye/Borg Warner.
Okay other than the turbo itself, intercooler, oil lines, charge pipes. What else exactly would I need to convert my already converted m62 L61 motor, (since it already has the lower intake manifold off the lsj) to a turbo setup?

Would I be able to use the supercharger delete to replace with turbo? Or is there a better option for a turbo mani?

So far I plan on going with lower compression weisco positions, eagle rods, beeft the valve train, cam, and turbo. Plug and play. Hopefully that's in the 350-400 range.

chris88z24

Put it back to stock and sell it at a profit then buy an SS TC if you absolutely must drive a Cobalt.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

You might just be better off selling that car and buying a SS/TC honestly.

Or keeping it as a daily, tossing a stock L61 in it, and selling off m62 stuff.

You are looking at a solid 6-8k in parts and labor at this point.
Around 9-10k you can snag a LNF and have the upgraded interior, ECM, suspension, and appearance.

x8xViperx6x

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately, its a salvage title now due to vapor lock, insurance adjuster totalled it. So that's not an option for selling only worth just under 3k running condition. I have my eye on a possible 70k motor for less than $500. That's the only issue with the car. Just figured I'd make it a project and track car. May just keep the m62 setup and do internals.

I have too much into it to sell it. It has pedders springs, ss/tc front struts and rear shocks, hardcore sway bar, front strut tower mount, full poly mounts, engine mount, trans mount, and LSD. Spec 3+ clutch findanza alum flywheel and full CIA exhaust. Only 60k mile on tranny. My car was only at 103k miles. Was originally intended for auto X. I may keep it that way.

Thanks for the input though.

Spanky's Monkey

iTrader: (6)

I feel your pain. Best bet is to drop in that $500 motor and call it quits. Invest your money in a better tuning platform if you still want to "racecar" in your free time. Auto-X is gonna be taxing on the build and will turn your "econo racecar" into a worse money pit then it is now. Of course it's your car and your choice. Ultimately if it were me I would sell the SC kit and uneeded upgrades then use that money to invest in the engine replacement and dowgrades. I would then use any funds left over to start building a decent sunday driver and keep the base balt as my DD/Winter Beater.

I got so much money invested in my cobalt that I have no choice but to keep it and get back on the boost. You pay to play and so far I have paid more then you should for a base model cobalt.

x8xViperx6x

iTrader: (1)

I just bought a new daily driver, picked up a 2001 Toyota tundra access cab 4x4 with 100k miles. So the once dd balt is now the permanent project.

Damn. Welp, $500 isn't much to invest to get it back running. I'll probably go that route, get it back to how it was and just have fun with auto cross.

Thanks for the input.

BlackielawlessSS

iTrader: (1)

Nice upgrade. We have a 09 camry and it is a good car.