If u have any questions pm tundraboarder666 he has the garrett kit on his 2.2l automatic

 

the kit won't fit perfectly. You will have to modify some pieces, but nothing major. Honestly the hardest part is getting the turbo on nice and tight from underneath the car because the tranny gets right in your way. I recommend having an immense amount of tools at your disposal and someone to help you out. Took me and a friend about 4 days to get everything correct.

 

This^^^Im the friend lol

 

well im taking the engine out of the car to install new rods and pistons along with head studs so should i just install the kit on the engine while it's outta the car or will i have trouble putting it back into the bay once everything is installed?

 

you might have firewall clearance issues.Might.We pulled the head with the turbo still attatched and ended up getting it out only beacause we pulled the studs out.I think its possible though to be honest.

 

hmm ok what all was needed to be change to accomidate the auto trans?

 

It wasn't really changing,more like stuff had to be moved.The Auto has a tunnel that goes from the driver to passenger side and that will be completely in the way for the oil return boss on the crank girldle.With the engine out I would think you would have more access to it.The oild train on the turbo side was a pita as well.Downpipe bols are a little tougher to get to when all in place but still accessible.Im trying to think about more as this was a couple years ago.hmmm.The charger piping fit but the eyelits didnt line up where you bolt them down,which isnt a huge deal.We had to cut one off on I think It was the cold side piping from intercooler to throttle body.you'll have to pul you coil harness apart a little for the maf to reach the intake,no biggie.There just little things that we worked right around.honestly the hardest part was tightening the turbo to the manifold and getting the oil drain line on so be patient.

 

yup.... that^

lol

 

wow yeah thanks for that ok i feel more confident about it now going in knowing what to expect. thanks for that

 

I have this kit as well and it took me a night to install.

my hardest part was drilling the oil boss out for the oil drain line (not really hard just time consuming and being patient)

and I have to agree with above posts the turbo to header bolts are a freaking headache. Plan to put them on once and hope u never have to take the turbo off again lol.

***also a key thing to remember is dont let the coolant line rub on any of the ac lines. I blew both my ac lines bc my turbo coolant line rub a hole right through both of them.

I also changed my maf location to run atmospheric bov instead of recirculating it back to the intake.

This is a damn good kit, and any aftermarket dp made for the cobalt will bolt right up.

 

thank you <3 this helped a lot as well

 

lol this makes me not wanna get a turbo for my 2.2 auto sedan

 

it's a lot of work

 

it can be a lot of work if u make it!

I installed turbo kit and tuned the next day, and retunes after that when I and the tuner was free. 1 day to install the kit means me pulling my car in gararge with nothing started taking off previously.

The more work u get into is if u want to build. Flyy is going to be building his motor so yes he is correct it can be a lot of work. If you know the right ppl or take your parts to a good shop it should get done correctly.

My main word of advice is have an abundance of tools ready when u start the build and make sure if u dont have something you know someone that does so u can borrow the tools off them and not have to pay for them.

 

Are you 5 speed or auto.This kit would of taken me 1-2 days max on Tundra's car if it were 5 speed.The auto's have a tunnel that goes from driver to pass. side thats in the way of everything lol

 

I am a 5 speed. ya I know there is fitment issues with the auto cobalts.

 

Ya.It was just really hard to get my hands in there for the oil lines.

 

well im skinny so hopefully i can get it right

 

ya I have to agree with Flyy it is a biatch to get all the oil lines, coolant lines, and turbo housing bolts all snugged up.

Try to find some skinny ass ratched wrenches, and sockets that swivel

 

Well I think my thread should be a sticky! its a piece of cobalt history!

 

agreed! lol

 

indeed my fellow hahn/garrett kit (future dual guage bezel maker) brother

 

How do you recommend I pull the engine out? Does the balt have a crossmember where you can just pull the whole front end off and leave the rest of the car on jack stands, or am I going to have to disconnect the engine from the frame and mounts and pull from the top or bottom? If so I would rather pull from the bottom and replace from the bottom but how high do you have to jack it up to get the engine out or will I need a lift for that?

 

If i remember from other builds, you can pull the motor out from the front of the car.

 

http://www.gmperformancedivision.com...J_Chap_1&2.pdf
this will give u the general how-to