There are a couple of things in the build book I wanted to ask about.

The build book suggest reusing the old piston rings. Is it better instead to lightly hone and use new rings?

Is there a good way to clean the valve train/timing chain before reassembly?

The build book also suggest using the old rod bearings.

Anything special to consider when installing valve springs?

Thanks.

 

 

 

Was it hard to remove the head?

 

Nope just followed the instructions in the gm build book.

 

Just be sure to lap your valves. And biggest piece of advice, don't lose the valve locks. It's easy to do lol. I lost half of mine.

 

Parts replacement is contingent on what you are doing... why is the head coming off?

I'd suggest leaving the rings unless you are gonna have the block properly honed. The factory finish is very good, and unless there's scoring or damage, you probably won't improve the seal with new rings and a handheld refinishing.

 

The head is off because I am following the build book and am putting the pistons in from the top. While the head is off I am going to also swap valve springs.

What's your opinion on the rod to crank bushings?

 

Anyone know what type of rings that come with the Wiseco pistons from TTR? I am trying to select the appropriate grit to deglaze the cylinder walls with. I plan on using a flex hone brush and right now I am thinking 240 or 320 grit. Anyone with experience know what grit to use for sure? The abrasive type is silicone carbide.

Edit: I might just reuse the old rings. Is there really anything wrong with that? What about the old rod to crank bearings?

 

I would for sure re-use the old bearings.

 

What is the reason for this? Is it better because they are already broken in? Are there disadvantages to using new ones?

This engine has 95,000 miles on it and I have always used Mobile 1.

 

As long as there is no damage to them go ahead and reuse them

 

This is the worst spot I could find on the bearings. One other has a spot like this except much smaller and less pronounced.

 

You should measure piston-to-valve clearance so I don't have to fret wondering if my milled/ported head will have major problems.

 

Why does getting your head ported/milled affect piston-to-valve clearance?

I'll try to get you some measurements if you need them.

 

Because it reduces the distance between the combustion chamber/valve seats and the piston. I've had a couple people offer but it's usually too much trouble for them since it requires reinstalling everything with clay and then turning the engine by hand. I'm sure I'll find out eventually.

 

I would if I had a timing chain to put back on haha, wouldn't take much to throw my block back together quick for measurements

 

Daaaamn. If you do definitely let me know!

 

Only problem is I was in a bit of a rush to tear it down and inspect the block before I had to go to work, chain was old and worn out anyways and everything is getting replaced so I just cut it with bolt cutters...
Got everything off and completely stripped down to nothing in under a half hour though haha

 

Anybody have a thought about that spot that is shown in the picture of the rod bearing?

 

I can't get this end off and am worrying about screwing something up. Is there something holding it on that I don't know about?

 

These nubs made it a b

 

Btw, anyone know of a fairly priced tool for compressing valve springs in these things? The one I bought doesn't quit fit.

 

Haven't done an ecotec head myself yet, but I bought the kent moore tool designed for them, it's pretty nice.

I bought a cheap motorcycle valve compressor kit to use on my toyota head, as most normal ones i had were too large. The kit was about $40 on ebay and had a bunch of small size ends that would be perfect for small automotive valve applications.

 

Found this one and in the comments section at least 2 people have used these with 2.2L ecotecs so if should work pretty nicely. Not cheap, but cheaper than the Kent-moore specialty tool. Just an FYI in case any other dummies want to try this at home.