http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/perfpart...rtsCatalog.pdf this is the GMPP catalog for 2006, enjoy guys.

there is a CNC ported head in here for the 2.2L along with the supercharger kit for the 2.2L and the stage 2 part numbers and everything else. Im thinking get the head, take it to a tune shop, have them bore out the valve stem guides 1mm over and get the ferra 1mm over sized valves, polish the head, dual valve springs titanium retainers, and the stage 3 cam from www.turbotechracing.com , should be one bad a$$ head.

 

s/c kit is for j-bodies only

 

that is still a 2.2L, i ran a check if i blew up my 2.2L and if i blew up a 2.2L in a cavy and the replacement number for the engine was exactly the same. the part that wont work is the PCM code for the cavy, but buy the stage 2 upgrade kit and it comes with the SS/SC reflash code, that code should do the trick. but like i said in a different post, ill let you guys know if it works. as far as the head, i still think that will be one kick a$$ head, and the head bolts right onto any 2.2L ecotec

 

Thanks for the catalog, but the supercharger still doesnt work for the cobalt, it'll bolt up, but there is no tuning! Also if you read, it does say 2.2 for the cavi/sunfire, not cobalt. Best of luck to you with the head, that would be a nice setup.

 

nope ss/sc has different pcm tuning wont work, you could do it with hp tuners when the programming is ready however....

 

ooops my bad, I see you know that, but the reflash from the ss/sc will definately not work.

 

well then the the 2.2L SC will sit in the box in the closet till the hptuners comes out, in the mean time, ill work on the head, i will most likely get the .020 over bore pistons too and get the block bored over. My warrenty is expired already so you dont have to warrn me about that.

 

The reason the LSJ flash won't work on the L61 is because they have two completely different computers. Yes, the hardware is all compatible, but not the software.

Don't bore out anything. The gains to be had at the 4 cylinder level by boring oversized are minimal in comparison to what you will pay to have it done. Oversized pistons and valve options exist only to allow a worn engine to still be overhauled.

 

you are talking to someone who bored out a 502 to a 512. MUCH HP gained there. I have to much muscle car experiance in me to not bore out the engine, cam's, and valve train. im not going to ride on a stock engine while waiting for god knows how long on slow ass computer nerds to make software for the 2.2L. and as i see it they dont really care about the 2.2L software, so i WILL bore it out and build a bad ass lopeing head. There is already a cobalt LS near me with the same crap, he blew the doors off me, by about 5 links. if all it does is double my HP then ill be happy with that

EDIT: Oh and tell the dont bore it out crap to the Connolly's Cobalt running 6.693 in the 1/4 mile @ 205.94 mph, but it is also twin charged along with a built head and over bore
here is the link to the articl on it at racefan.com under the NHRA Pro Stock they put him up against 2 GTO's and he beat them both out http://www.racefan.com/sresults.asp?...StoryID=185401

 

except the Cobalt is NOT a muscle car and in turn not a V8, you have to take a different approach with some things. Halfcent is correct as per the norm haha

I'm sure the Correli car has been sleeved as well. if you wanted to do that go for it, but I wouldn't go boring out a stock sleeve too much.

 

lol boring it out too much, lol, 0.020 of an inch is not too much. lmao thats just slightly bigger then the width of a sheet of paper

 

i dont care what any of you say, im going to bore it out and have the lopeing head. and you all can laugh later when i run high 12's low 13's w/out boost

 

I don't trust the stock sleeves enough to bore them at all for forced induction, that's just my opinion. if you want to sure, but I wouldn't want to weaken them any. yeah I know how thick .020 is thanks.

 

you're going to need at least a decent shot on that.

 

we'll see about that

 

Good find, how is the GMPP manifold different from the stock manifold?

 

If i were you I would wait before getting yourself into a destroyed engine. You quite obviously dont know much about the L61, this car is not a Muscle car from the '60's. These cars need careful attention to the parts that are put into them, AND most importantly the computer tuning that controls the computer, if you do one without the other, you're going to blow **** up. Obviously noone can retune the L61 in the cobalt yet, so use the downtime to actually LEARN about the engine before you just start throwing **** at it.

If you want to start learning about your engine, I would talk to NJHK, he knows more about our engines than you could over hope to.

That is all,
Jeff

 

it differs because it lets you bolt up the LS1 V8 corvette throtle body onto our engines, 80mm, and it lets in more CFM into the air intake.

 

It also requires computer modifications, or else your car with not idle properly and run like a bag of ass,

If you want a preview of what our cobalts are like with the performance manifold then just unplug the sensor in your airintake tube and run the car for a few mins.

Thats what will happen.

 

you may have muscle car experience but trying to get N/A power out of a little 2.2L 4 cylinder is a lost cause. you will be spending plenty of money and have almost nothing to show for it. please don't make the mistake of thinking that if you bore out the block that you're gonna be blowin cars away. also a 12/13 sec. pass without boost? I hope you're gonna be adding a 125 shot on top of that because thats where all your power will be coming from. You certainly won't make it N/A, these guys aren't tellin you not to do it for no reason. You aren't moving enough air through these little engines for something like that to make a big difference.

 

Junior, I see you headed for a world of hurt...

This is a computer controlled powertrain. Sure, you can bypass all of that and use stand-alone management systems. But then your power steering, your instrument cluster, and your electronic throttle won't work anymore. And you won't be street legal anymore either. But yeah, you can do it.

You will have to convert to a cable throttle, replace your instruments with stand-alone indicators, remove the electric steering mechanism, and completely re-wire your engine. But yeah, you can do it.

You will spend literally thousands of dollars. Just doing the math quickly in my head, the machine shop boring labor will run you about 2 grand. And that doesn't include removal, disassembly, cleaning and reassembly, or any of the parts I listed above. But yeah, you could do it.

Good luck. And when your done with this project, and you are still normally aspirated, and you are only making about 20 more horsepower then you were before, give me a call. We'll go to the track where I will then be making 330HP on pump gas at 15 PSI. And then I'll drive my car home legally on the street while you load yours onto the back of a trailer.

 

Thats all I can say about that....soooooo true.........

 

Halfcent are you going to get the stage 2 turbo kit????