I have a 2006 LTZ (auto 2.2), last summer on a hot humid day I ran 16.785 at 81.53mph. It was my first time at the track so I think I can do better. I'm hoping for a 16.5 as tonight will almost be 30 degrees cooler than when I ran last summer. Any predictions?


Edit: BTW if anyone is interested, mods are GMPP intake and full LSJ exhaust (headers, downpipe, and catback).

 

have you got a retune yet?

 

You kind of fucked yourself with the GMPP parts.. And LSJ **** isn't exactly a big step from stock anyway.

You'd see better gains with real parts.

 

16.5 should be easy. my best with those mods was 16.3. i'm running ban injen cai but that means beans on the times. i just race a lot.

that's a bold statement. the gmpp intake is a short ram which is indeed a real performance part. i doubt he will benefit from the hea tsoaked engine bay but this mod can produce good gains with the proper hood. as for the lsj exh manifold it is indeed an improvement over the stock exh manifold good for minor gains on a bolt-on car with no tune. i'm not gonna get into a new beef with you but your wrong here.

 

What track?

 

oh yeah, lose the trunk lining and that heavy ass floor piece and the spare tire before you go. should be good for a 1/10th.

 

I know it is bold, but you know what I mean. A true cold air would net him more overall HP, and a more broad power band, especially up top. Yes, with a functional hood scoop you would see better gains with the GMPP, than what you are now. As much as a cold air intake? I'm not sure.

The LSJ is definitely an improvement, no doubt. I am not saying you're wrong at all, but, again, with a proper mid-length/long-tube header, you would net a better time than with a factory "shorty" exhaust manifold. Tune or not.

The spare tire and jack, yeah. That "heavy ass floor piece" is simply carpet with a small amount of particle board, it practically weighs nothing, but it is easy to remove, so I would agree. Remove it anyway. I would remove the back seats and the passenger seat, too. It wouldn't take more than 30 minutes to remove all of it.

 

Went to Englishtown, NJ tonight.

Best run was a 16.480 at 83.05

I'm pretty happy with it, only my 6th run down the 1/4 mile ever so I'm still getting the hang of it all. I was probably one of the slowest cars there tonight but I don't care. I just go to the track with my friends when they go to have a good time, if I wanted a 'fast' car I would've gotten an SS. I think I can get down into the lower 16's if I remove my spare/jack/rear and passenger seats next time I go down.

 

removing the spare and jack would give you about a .01 advantage. removing the seats is a pain in the ass...i dont know if you want to go that route. congrats on the runs though. its always nice to see your time drop.

 

what about a B&M shift plus since your auto...that might help if you dont got it already

 

i got that and i have no negatif about that

 

exactly the point. wild claims with a lack of personal experience.

 

No offense, but how hard is it to drive an auto 2.2 down a 1/4 mile track? First time should be like every other time, keep your foot on the gas and drive straight, right? Im not trying to be a dick but is there any more to it? I guess Ive never been to a track. Shed some light on me if theres more to it. Honestly not trying to start a fight or nothing im just wondering.

 

Actually, the GM IS a cold-air intake. It mounts the filter in the stock airbox, but is sealed from the engine bay by a rubber gasket- and the stock airbox has a 'snorkel' which pulls the air from below the passenger-side headlight, not the engine bay. So in effect, 2.2/2.4 cars have a CAI stock, but the GMPP combines it with the free flow of a short-ram.

 

by definition...however...a CAI is one where the airfilter itself is moved to an alternate location outside the engine compartment, usually the fender-well, drawing in colder...denser air. either way around the GM Parts is physically a short ram intake.

 

In the drag racing forum there's a sticky on brake standing with the auto trans. I've been trying to find the sweet spot of how high to rev it before letting off the break to get the best launch.

 

Like brake boosting. Alright. Best advise I have is weight reduction. Good luck this year.

 

wow 16.7 you should try coming down to the valley to run your car im hitting 16.1 on an 06 cobalt auto mods is the airbox mod and a cutout weather was like 80 degrees

By Valley I Mean the RGV just if anyone is wondering

 

Well I got it down to a 16.4 last week so I'm catching up to you lol.

 

i have a 06 cobalt all i have done to it was a cold air intake iebach springs (pro kit) and 205-55-16 tires i ran a 16.011 last summer and have the time slip still and i had the spare tire and jack in the back

 

im not calling BS...but i would like to see that time slip. also...AT or MT?

 

The launch is extremely hard to get consistent. It's a delicate balance of wheelspin and traction. After that the trip down is a lot more consistent. Tires, condition of the tires, tire pressure, track conditions, weather conditions all have an effect on how the run will go. Select 'D' turn off traction control if you have it and use the brake torque technique to launch. There is a good thread on here that explains how to do it, but it will take practice. The most important thing is the launch, it is the most difficult, and takes the most practice and skill.

To the OP, if you want to launch hard and drag race, then I would recommend you get the upgraded axles. The stock ones snap easily during launch from what I have read. If you experience wheel hop, ABORT the run IMMEDIATELY, get off the gas until everything settles down, you can always make another pass if your car is still in one piece. You can easily break your car from wheel hop, do not try to salvage a bad start, you will get a bad time anyway, you might as well make it a horrible time and coast down the track.

 

Is traction really a problem in an auto 2.2? <--honestly just a question. I have never driven one I just assumed it wasnt much of one. Whats this 'D' You speak of? lol Just giving ****. My girlfriend has been looking into cobalts for a car and I just wanted to know. I would rather have her get the 2.4 so I have access to the pcm with hptuners.

 

I have a manual 2.2, but for the autos it's a combo of trying to get a good launch and the gearbox that slows em down.

 

Is wheelhop really an issue on an automatic that's MAYBE putting down 150hp/tq.