i have nothing wrong with nitrous at all dude its just i wouldnt have any plastic parts running to my engine if i was getting nitrous or even a turbo plastic may seem like a good idea at first but not for me o sorry about the negative feedback, i hope you do well just dont crash

 

last I read, every 2.2 with a nitrous backfire has blown their motor.

tell me how a stronger manifold is going to save your piston rings? who cares about the manifold when you've gotta tear the motor apart anyway...

 

^He speaketh the truth.

 

which is why im not getting nitrous lol id like to keep my car.....or do i??? if i blow my engine with nitrous could i consider my car totaled? and get a new 07 possibly????

 

No, I wouldn't consider it totaled. You can swap out the engine for a new one...not like the structural integrity of the frame is being affected.

 

How is this possible? What is the cause of this? is it because there is a wrong shot or wrong timing of shot?

any advice, rollerman?

 

So are we going to end the guessing and get real numbers soon?

 

yeah i got my kit and jets in and it runs fine. I need to get my LT header on, and im trying to get a 2.4l mani swap, a corsa touring for the ss/sc and an ETD. I can't put my LT header in without the ETD or else it rubs slightly.

 

as far as I know nitrous backfire usually only happens right on take off (generally if you using a safe shot) when you have nitrous pooled. Nitrous helps to cool to engine so you don't need to really worry about your valves being too hot during use, just right when the nitrous first hits. thats another reason it might be a good idea to get a progressive 2 stage system(maybe a 35 shot for 1st gear and like the 85 the rest of the way)

I've never ran nitrous im just spouting off bullshit....but it sounds logical i think. lol

 

or you can not spray off the line

 

i haven't had any problems sprayn off the line. it's just slow if i don't purge first.

 

you can spray off the line, but only once you hit a certain RPM. I have my window switch set at 3000RPM. so my shot doesn't activate till then.

 

I'd be EXTREMELY careful if your switch is set at 3,000...mine was set at 3,700 I believe and you all know what happened...

 

I launch around 3500-4000rpms and dont arm until I feel some traction in 1st.

Im set to arm at 3200 right now.

Oh and Im gonna guess 200whp/ 225wtq and high 14's

 

I don't think thats what caused the problem though....i had mine set at 3000, for a year, before deciding to do all this and i haven't had any problems. were you revving or something that woulld cause pooling?

 

No no no, what I meant was launching in 1st with the switch set at 3000...just say be extremely careful in first with a 3000 arming point. If you have it set for 2nd gear at 3,000 you should be fine.

 

o ok. Before, I was running dead stock except for a CAI and sprying in 1st at 3000K. I've been running a 75shot, but never got the chance to take ti to the track or dyno it. This time im going all bolt on (including the 2.4 mani swap), ETD and B&M shift+. You can check my sig for what i'm actually using. Still waiting on a few parts... I'm just trying to figure out what causes this backfire though....

 

bump caz im bored. lol

 

So i was readin around and came to find out that "dragion breath" aka nitrous backfire is caused by pooling caused by revving while nitrous is activated, running lean, or spraying too early (before 2500RPM has been the safe suggested everywhere i looked).....its nice when you do a little research.