oonothing

First post! I got a 07 Saturn Ion and i just got 4 grand for graduation and I am for sure going to supercharge it. End up spending 1500 with Trifecta and everything. Would it be safe to start out with a 2.8 or be safe with a 2.9? Plus my warranty ended 2 months ago so screw it.

Gene Culley

iTrader: (1)

I see. That makes total sense. I think I am 260 FT above sea level. What are yours?

Do it now. You know you want to lol.

You can probably start out with a 2.9 to see what your IDC % is. Your estimate of 1500 is light.

007CobaltLS

For the supercharger setup itself, $1500 is doable...however when you factor a tune and other supporting mods, it will be in the $3000 range.

NJjon

How do you figure?

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

nope.
$1600 for tune and hardware
Throw on another $500 in gauges (all of which are optional, though the $60 boost gauge is recommended). That totals at $2100 for me.

not really sure. is there a place i can check?
i know the air pressure here is about 14.2PSIa

007CobaltLS

Sorry for the typo Hunter, I meant to put $2000, not $3000. I know if I have my way about it, everything will be said and done for less than $2000 for sure...I'm very cheap and only look for absolute cheapest...I found a used Injen for $120 shipped, LSJ cat-back for $45 locally, etc. (intake is 2.2, but just to prove my point of me looking for cheapest parts available and the time it will take for me to put a SC kit together, I'll take my time to get every used part as cheap as possible).

ml2242

you also will find out pretty quick that once you can accelerate a lot faster you need to stop a lot faster so upgraded rotors and pads are almost essential.. at least for my style of driving.

my total was around 2.6k i think

007CobaltLS

That's why I'm finishing my suspension/handling before I really consider FI...OTT rear sway is next, then MSD Dash Hawk, pads/rotors/ss lines, then struts/shocks, and finally a header/dp and tune until I decide what route to go. I won't be going turbo I've decided...it's either MPG or SC.

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

larger rotors/pads dont make you stop faster. they just prevent brake fading. Tire traction is always the limiting factor in stopping time/distance

ml2242

After about 3 hard brakes on my stock pads and rotors my brakes became useless. Now i can get around 10 in before they start to fade.. that is what i was refering too

Gene Culley

iTrader: (1)

I still agree with the $3,000. Of course I bought a lot of new parts, powdercoated the valve cover and supercharger and did the washer conversion from the SS, etc. I bought alot of new stuff.

I did a Google search on my zip code and height above sea level. It was written at several different sources. I also went to www.earthtools.org and clicked on my location on the map there and it told me as well. The earthtools map and what was written about the elevation in my city and town on Google was correct. Oh yeah, you need to have that setup in your Interceptor so it reads the correct data, especially HP.

x8xViperx6x

iTrader: (1)

Im looking around 2.7k by time im done.. Thats with nice gauges ofcourse

007CobaltLS

It really depends on what you get...with new parts, closer to the 3k, with used parts and a lot of searching/bargaining/trading, you can get it done for $1500.

What I referred to for about $2000 is the supercharger and bare essential components, a tune, an exhaust. You're looking at a little under $2000 for that if your SC parts are used. You can easily spend $3000 if you start doing things like Gene did (powdercoating or buying new parts). You can also buy all kinds of upgrades if you don't want a completely stock SC setup...intake rather than OEM LSJ intake parts, H/E, etc.

IF I go SC, I will go cheap and try to find a completely stock setup with the exception of an intake I will get an Injen or whatever right off the bat, but the pulley I would prefer to start off stock. Then, if/when I feel like upgrading, I can sell off stock parts if someone needs them and get upgraded parts. I just want to wait it out and take my time finding the cheapest parts I can (that are still in good shape)...with patience it can be done. I could go buy a whole setup right now and be done, but if I can save myself $500-1000 in all by taking my time, I will. This is my DD and I am in no rush to blow it up right now.

SSfamilywagon

iTrader: (2)

Just curious, what are you guys seeing as far as IAT 2's go? And how are you guys monitoring IAT's?

007CobaltLS

Well if/when I get going on my setup, I'll be picking up an MSD Dash Hawk...I will have to double check, but that should have parameters for IAT. I'll be picking the Dash Hawk up either way, but it will definitely benefit me if I go FI.

mtbrent

Our ecu's have no way to monitor iat2, so your dashhawk and the interceptors can't read it. Re-wiring the 2.5 bar stock lsj tmap sensor(if you are using it) into the iat1 sensor on the maf is the only way. And I only know of 2 people that have done that, beck and pjk91. Not sure on numbers they saw though, maybe the latter will chime in as i know he's still on here once in awhile.

Gene Culley

iTrader: (1)

This is correct. I will be doing this shortly.

007CobaltLS

Thanks for that info, wasn't sure. I just know the Dash Hawk has the ability to monitor it (didn't know what features will work on a GM).

IonNinja

The Dashhawk only has the ability to display what the ecu reads. Even if you wire in the 2 bar map, there's no guarantee that it will display on the dashhawk since its not a factory parameter. I'm curious to see how this works out though.

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

wire the IAT2 to be read by the ECM as IAT1, and rescale the voltages via a tune. Its simple

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

IAT1 is read at the MAF, IAT2 by the 2.5 map on the manifold, putting a MAP sensor where the IAT1, will only read u the temps at the intake(right after the filter)...we can already do that, we need to read IAT2's, which is after the blower before the manifold....rewiring in a 2.5" map wont gurantee seeing it, i would just use a digital aftermarket gauge to monitor it, which is what im going to be doing :p already found it too...

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

link to said gauge?
ive been looking for one forever....

but it is guaranteed, as it has been done. 2 wires of the MAP/IAT2 sensor go and replace 2 wires that come from the MAF, so the IAT at the manifold is sent to the MAF, which is then read by the ECM as IAT1, even though the actual information is coming from the IAT2's location. Make sense?

regardless, i'd like to skip the rewire...wheres this IAT2 sensor? i couldnt find anything when i searched

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

ah yes i see now, ok i thought they were replacing the MAF for the MAP lol, i can see that working the way u pointing it out, lemme find u the gauge, its a weird name company, siliconeintakes sells it

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/detai...4fef4d410659fb

it comes in red or blue, cant find the blue one though

Gene Culley

iTrader: (1)

I am happier with doing the wire and MAP swap when I do my CAI. I would rather have it display on my interceptor.

IonNinja

I bet that is going to cause you to have to retune a little bit if the ECU starts making adjustments based on IAT2s