This is Sw4y1313 posting under IonNinja's name since im over here trying to help him out. It makes for a much more fun vacation then sitting around

The car has a very irratic idle on startup. It doesnt matter if its cold or hot start. The boost gauge is also reading 0 vacuum as well. It should be reading ~20 obviously. Could someone post up a clear image of all the vacuum lines on their LSJ or 2.2/2.4 SC setup so I can compare? From what it looks like everything is hooked up properly but I figured we should compare to others just incase.

What is also the concern is that the pcv system on the L61 vs the LSJ. The location on the L61 intake manifold is in the center of the intake ports of 2 and 3. On the LSJ its different right? Could Jerry have not have plugged something or routed something correctly to cause this idle issue? He has a small filter on the valve cover hole, its not ran to the intake. Jn2 or Hunter, could either of you maybe chime in on this?

Thanks a lot for any help!

 

Come on fellas, nothing?!?!?

 

idk about the vacuum line... but with your idle at 0, try checking the obvious things like the boost bypass solenoid. that black cylinder looking thing on the supercharger. if you tap the gas at idle, it should move the diaphragm in/out. those have been known to stick closed. mine did once when i took my s/c off.

 

Well it wasnt sticking before because it kept opening and closing. But we just got back from datalogging a couple runs. It now idles like stock but higher(about 1200rpms). AFR shows 14.6 to 15.4 at idle. We took her out and she cruised around 14.2 - 14.7. Only problem now is most likely the tune. Once we hit boost, the car sputters and doesn't accelerate. It seems like its just getting way too much fuel. We are going to check the plugs and their gap too just to make sure they are where we want em. .035 should work well.

 

keep it updated

 

Just gapped the plugs to .034 and we are sending some datalogs to vince then we are going to see if WOT responds the same way.

Jerry's boost gauge is reading correctly now, either it was something with the ecu being stupid or some kinda freak of nature lol.

 

Check my gallery for engine bay pics, I'm on my iPhone so I can't copy paste...I should have pics of my engine bay in there showing everhose, also all my hoses are connected none are left open or with a breather

Also the bottom nipple on the sc bypass valve should b left open to vent to atmosphere, no hose no cap, just leave it alone

 

well I've got a breather on my valve cover because the nipple on my intake is missing. so I had to plug the hole where it should be and put a breather on the valve cover.

we took it out again yesterday and it was doing the same thing after messin with the plugs. whats really wierd is when I first turn the car on vacuum is only showing like 3-4inHg and then after two minutes or so the idle will bump up to 1200 from 750 and the vacuum will change to 18-19inHg. at this point I'm just waiting for a response from Vince to see if he has any insight based on the logs I sent him.

how long does he typically take to reply to you guys btw?

 

hey jerry, maybe today you can try and get the breather line to attach to your intake? get a fitting and drill bit that are the same size, about 3/8-1/2 maybe, then thread the fitting into your intake then hook up the vacuum line.

 

That line won't cause your problem...we didn't run the hose on interview's car, hmmm...is your throttle body on right? Did u rewire the lsj one on there right?

 

the tb was one of the issues originally but i was able to help him in the right direction and he took care of it. no tps codes anymore and it functions properly. its just so weird how theres almostno vacuum on startup then if you let it idle for 2 mins or drive it, its fine.. and at first it idled at 1200 but the last time we took it out yesterday it was idling perfectly at 800ish rpms.

i wonder if its the bypass valve somehow. it has a gash of plastic shaved off the top of it. anyone maybe has a spare one layin around he can try?

 

Not sure if this sensor is on the 2.2... but there is a plug in on the right of the engine, Which can also plug into the SCIP sensor on the s/c...

when i switched this by accident, my vac was all kinds o craziness.

 

you have to have a vac leak. take the blower off and put it back on. and check the seals.

 

^^^^ yeah. sounds like a BAD vacuum leak....


but if ur idle is ok now and not all bouncy then idk...

 

so it ended up being a leak

the caps that go on the end of the injectors had shitty o-rings so the injectors werent sitting in the head properly. Got some thicker o-rings and the injectors fit snuck and that pretty much fixed my idle problems.

Just need to be fine tuned at this point

 

i hope the next tune is almost spot on so i can get a ride and help you make a few videos before i head home.

***waits impatiently***

 

I'm waiting impatiently as well

this car is starting to **** me off really...yesterday I spent an assload of time looming up the stock wiring and mounting my reservoir tank. I go to start the game and bam same issue all over again, misfire in cyl #2. So I pulled the injectors out...made sure they were in again and lubed the o-rings with oil and put em back in...shitty idle but no misfire in a specific cylinder.

so, i'm going to grab some vasoline and lube the o-rings again and reinstall...if that dont work Im outta ideas.

 

Its gotta be the injectors then dude. Pick up some EV1 60lb'ers and you wont have to rewire anything. Did you get the 42's new or used?

 

Hmm... so did you have to cut up your harness for those? That could be a problem. I am going to use the GM 42's with the Cavalier injector harness so I don't have to splice anything.

Also, if you think it is the injectors... when the car is running spray carb cleaner around the holes and if the idle jacks up or it sounds different, then you have a leak there.

 

I lied...the injector it was misfiring on had a connection come apart. Apparently when I was soldering the harness I burned through the wiring a little bit right before the solder and it weakened the wire. So when I was looming everything it broke...

So car runs as it should...for now. But my tune still sucks I cant hit any boost over 4K or it goes retarded lean.

Yeah I learned that carb trick from FASTL61...with these new o-rings its sealed. But yes these are the GM 42s (bought used) and they have an EV1 connector on it instead of EV6 so yes those connectors need to be spliced into your stock harness.

 

I repin'd my harness...stock clip with lsj connectors, no cutting or splicing

 

thats good you figured it out dude. you tune will be dialed in soon, dont worry

 

yeah I hope so...I'd like to be able to push the car though. This whine is addicting!

 

Not at all. I bought the 2005 Cavalier fuel injector wiring harness for my 2009 Pontiac G5 GT. All connectors are the same for everything on my vehicle, but the injector connectors fit the Stage 2's without any modification... already tested them out on the harness.

 

nice...I didn't want to take the chance of buying a Cavi harness and having it not work...since Saturn likes to have small pain in the ass differences.

there are several ways to do it to get the same result...whatever works!