don't blame you. I am boosting at 14psi max right now which isn't bad. finally have my a/f dialed in. good luck tomorrow after changing the gaskets

 

Yeah, good luck man, I am still looking for a few things before I throw it on...

 

I'm still leaning towards the bypass valve. I've seen this problem before and a new bypass valve corrected it.

 

Bypass valve or actuator?? The vale is the actual vavle in the sc, the actuator is the black canister with the sping in it nand the 2 plugs for the vac lines on it... and it can't be that I took it off and ran with it plugged (so the car would keep the valve closed so it always boosts even when not at wot) and it only went to 10 psi

 

It was stennguyen1 that had the problem, I just diagnosed it over the phone since I was out of town, I'll get him to come in and shed some light or you can PM him.

 

ok cool yea have him post up or something

 

Well I shot him a text and it was the bypass valve. You can get a new one through ZZP, or find another one used.

 

I really think it is probably how the actuator is lined up. I originally had that problem. I am seeing 15 to 15.5 PSI with the 2.9.

 

And that's making my car idel at 1500 rpm also???? Iv messed with that actuator so many damn times tho and took it off and plugged the line idk

 

Well bringing this back to life.. got my gaskets in, pickin em up after work, gunna pull it all of and go for attempt number 2 ha I really hope this works!!

 

so howd it go?

 

well i fixed my idel problem, not sure what gasket it was but one of them that i replaced fixed it. cleared my cel and it never came back on. car runs smooth and alls great EXCEPT im still only making 11 psi at wot. idk what gives!!!! someone? anyone? oh and i readjusted my bypass actuator and it is working fine i believe. i know someone is going to tell me thats the issue. wich i will prove isnt tom, i will disconnect it plug the vac line going to the sc and the bypass valve will be shut all the time wich then i will do another wot run. if i only hit 11 psi wich im sure i will it means its not the bypass actuator. right?????

 

Ur semi right...the bypass valve has a small margin or error, but it does exist...depending on how closed the bypass really is when it pushed down...when u tighten th actuator down notice it gives slack one way or the other before it's tightened down? Be sure the valve on the blower is fully closed when s tightened...

Ps I don't recommend removing that line...don't know what the aftermath of it could b, but with it closed u'll prob make (+) pressure at idle...which would lean u out...just a heads up at 1.5k rpm I can make 6-7psi....at 1.2k I make 4-5...ur on a smaller pulley but I'm pretty sure u'll have some sort of positive pressure without the actuator keepi g the valve open during DD

 

speaking of nipples.. wanna see mine?

/threadjack

 

how your making that at such low idel? and if i did plug it and my wideband shows im goin lean id stop right away... but if i dont do that what else can i do im like at a brick wall now

 

actually you don't have to leave it venting to the atmosphere. cuz i got mine plugged on a 2.9 pulley and was seeing 14-15 psi at wot.

and the problem i think you having is the bypass valve just like joshc. was saying. i had the same problem not going into full boost at wot. i found out my bypass valve accasionally got stuck open/close so i didn't see full boost. so i switch it with my other blower i had laying around and it fixed the problem.

as seen in this pix i have the bottom nipple plugged.

 

Do you mean the actual valve on the blower? Or the actuator? And how do I test to see if its that. I'm broke now and don't have extra cash to just be buying parts and guessing untill I sell some stuff in my fs thread atleast lol

Did my little test again at work. Pluged the vac line going into the blower. So now nothing is hooked up to the bypass actuator. Thus leaving the bypass valve ALWAYS CLOSED. IN THEORY I SHOULD BE BOOSTING A LOT EASIER AND ALWAYS?? Well the vavle is all the way shut and I did a wot run still only 10 or 11 psi.. this means its not the actuator making the issue its something else (when I was done I hooked everything back up how it was)

 

That bottom nipple shouldn't be plugged. It should be open to atmosphere.

Did you ever check to make sure the valve was sitting shut with the vehicle off (aka, SC off the car)?

 

who says it has to be open to atomsphere? i got my plugged forever now and didn't have any problems.

 

Everyone I've talked to said it has to be open. Mine's open. But if it works, then I guess it doesn't matter.

 

either way mine doesnt work lol i need more boost. oh and if you see my other post i have a messed up cv shaft or hub now and dont know how to determine what it is... so now i have 2 issues and no money! great!

 

OP I'm having the same issue. When I decelerate, the RPMs don't go down until I brake it just bounces up and down. Also I have a like 600-700 RPM idle. My other problem is my boost gauge isn't getting a reading at all which means I have a huge air leak somewhere, but I have no idea where.

 

It definately sounds like the bypass valve they are cheap just pick one up and put it on, I can just about bet that will fix your problem.

 

Bypass VAVLE??? Or Vavle actuator??? Litteraly the butterfly vavle or the black canister?

 

he means this: http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...=840&catid=189

the bypass valve.