2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

Piston/Rod Build Need lots of advice

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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 04:46 PM
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Auddasea's Avatar
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Piston/Rod Build Need lots of advice

Hey Guys,

Recently bought a 2010 chevy cobalt LT 2.2 L61. Im wanting to do a turbo build on it with about 12-18PSI so I know the first thing that needs to be taken care of is an internal swap. I just purchased the wiseco heads with eagle rods. Ive never done any internal swaps before so Im wondering what build guide/book anyone could recommend that will help this to go smoothly. I have worked on cars before...break pad changes/oil change/spark plug swap/header and intake swap...but I know none of that stuff need be as perfect as internal swaps...any info would be nice guys.
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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Ummmm I would find someone who can help that has done this before.
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 05:16 PM
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http://www.gmtunersource.com/media/r...mplete-web.pdf

Start on page 9. And if you have a 2010 you have a LAP. So idk if you do the exact same procedure.
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 05:18 PM
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whats your email....Ill send you the build book
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Glowbalt
whats your email....Ill send you the build book
That's what I posted lol
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 05:31 PM
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touche' I'm actually doing internals right now.lol
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Glowbalt
touche' I'm actually doing internals right now.lol
lol its all good. you plan to pulley down?
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 05:59 PM
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nope...I'm 2.8 right now...but I'm going turbo within 2 weeks
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 06:08 PM
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Cool. That's even better lol
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 02:35 AM
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Does the build book show you how to measure the bores/pistons and fit the rings etc etc ??
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 07:26 AM
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Your bore should be good but if you dont have the proper tools you need to take the block to a good machine shop to have the pistons fitted to the bore. Forged pistons take a bit more clearance than the stock Hyperutetic ones. They can put the right crosshatch on the cylinders to promote proper ring break in. Rotating assembly needs to be balanced and might as well get the neutral balance shafts. etc etc etc
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by mongorat427
Your bore should be good but if you dont have the proper tools you need to take the block to a good machine shop to have the pistons fitted to the bore. Forged pistons take a bit more clearance than the stock Hyperutetic ones. They can put the right crosshatch on the cylinders to promote proper ring break in. Rotating assembly needs to be balanced and might as well get the neutral balance shafts. etc etc etc
Good point. I may be mistaken but I believe that it does show you how to do that.
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 08:37 AM
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Good luck, be clean and thorough with what you do, make sure everything is right. Not a job that you want to be doing over because you damaged something while working on it.
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 05:03 PM
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dont forget about a tranny, blew mine in 3 hours with 18 psi
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 05:11 PM
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really? I've been on my original trans for 4 years with 3 years being boosted from 8-16psi
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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It's all in how you drive it
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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How many miles are on the engine? You will probably have to have the rods machined for the aftermarket pistons. When me and my brother did the engine in the cobalt we used diamond pistons. We just honed the cylinders a little bit and put the pistons in. We checked the rings with the feeler gauge and they were pretty much perfect. Also we used stock lsj rods. We didn't even pull the engine to do it. All we did was drop the pan, pull the head, and pull the roads pistons out the top. Made it go a lot faster.
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Superbalt06
How many miles are on the engine? You will probably have to have the rods machined for the aftermarket pistons. When me and my brother did the engine in the cobalt we used diamond pistons. We just honed the cylinders a little bit and put the pistons in. We checked the rings with the feeler gauge and they were pretty much perfect. Also we used stock lsj rods. We didn't even pull the engine to do it. All we did was drop the pan, pull the head, and pull the roads pistons out the top. Made it go a lot faster.
Honestly miles don't really matter running 12-18 psi you're gonna have to put in rods and pistons regardless.
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 05:48 PM
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If you've never tuned a car before I would suggest you put the turbo setup on the stock engine at low boost and learn to tune on that, once you get a tune dialed in there you can build another engine out of the car and swap it in, then turn the boost up and re-tune.

Nothing's worse than blowing up your freshly built engine because you dont know how to tune, blocking up a stock engine is a lot cheaper.
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 05:52 PM
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It's a lot of fun i can tell you that lol... and i'm at 17 psi with stock transmission
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 09:15 PM
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Tranny is good up to 500hp as per the gm build book isn't it? Yeah I was going to do the swap with the block still in the car. I wont be doing the tune either...I know a Trifecta tuner down here personally who I will have do it cause Im not interested in messing up my build.. Its the diamond forged wiseco heads...The crank also goes pretty high stock too doesn't it?
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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Crank and F23 tranny will be fine.
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 01:54 PM
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crank is good to 450 says the build book... i'm shooting for 400 with mine but I want to get an lsd before I turn the boost up anymore lol
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 09:27 AM
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you can check my build thread if you would like. i'm fully built and if you have any questions feel free to contact me.
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