Foximus

iTrader: (13)

Yep. Engine in the car is due for love, and I have the original L61 laying in the garage, so why not build another engine for road racing.

Thinking 9.5:1 compression, M62 @ 9-12psi. Wanting to make around 250 at the wheels.

What Im looking for is advice from the guys who have build L61's on parts suggestions/ combinations. Ive built engines in the past ( and do it for work, tho slightly larger engines...) But I just dont know a ton about the guts of the ecotec stuff. I've got a local machine shop I'm talking to about doing some of the machine work in exchange for sponsorship on the racecar.

So who can help advise me on the right stuff to get?

sandman

iTrader: (4)

not sure if you are gonna get up to 250 at that amount of psi without a bunch of other supporting mods

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

Car currently has a very built motor ( for a turbo) in it, Dual Pass, Stage3 heat exchanger, upgraded cooling system, etc.

wanna try and push 200-250 at teh wheels to be able to fight the lightweight hondas better

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

If im thinking about this wrong, i would like some constructive criticism to get going down the right place, i was really hoping for a little more feedback on what to buy what not to buy, or what combos work well. My experiance is in V8's, Turboprops, and rocket engines, so this is a bit of a new one to me, heh

Pitbull2o08

iTrader: (2)

Fox, if you want to be cost effective: since you're staying at 250, you just need to upgrade the rods, MAYBE Pistons. The block should fail at 300+, so that's no issue. A simple piston rod upgrade, perhaps cams, and you're set.

While you're in there, you can throw some darton sleeves in and then Pistons rods and make 300-400, maybe 500 safely. Port and polish your head and get some blower cams with more efficient lift.

Are you allowed to TVS in your races? If so, obtion B here would be great. Or turbo option b here also.

Hope this helps

Oh, manley rods, wiseco pistons.

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

I could TVS.... But $$$$$. Planning to keep the eaton. Its got Dual pass and the massive ZZP Heat Exchanger, and honestly doesn't run too awfully hot. Havent seen a reason to go Option B yet.

The motor in the car right now has no sleeves, but eagle rods and crank and weisco pistons. Just too low a compression (8.9:1... was meant for a turbo. also has turbo cams)

I'm thinking of getting it apart, having a machine shop sleeve it and clean it all up, Powell trap door pan.

Can I run the stock crank or is it work upgrading?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Stock crank has taken 600+ youll be fine unless you want displacement. The 2.4 crank is a direct swap.

Rods, just recondition the eagles you have now, no reason to get new ones.

As for pistons i would just get the stock compression wiseco ones. 10:1 you arent making anywhere close to the amount of power where high compression and boost can start breaking things. 10:1 isnt all that high anyway.

New rings obviously. For 250 you dont need sleeves. That money can be put to use somewhere else on the car. The l61 shares the same block as the lsj and they have been known to hold over 400 reliably.

New bearings. Arp studs for head and mains

Nee timing set and tensioner, maybe some blower cams, but i would keep a close eye on what mr.b is developing with solid lifter cams. You could also swap to an lsj head, they have tons more cam options and have a ton of exhaust meat for porting, there is a thread on here about putting it on an l61.

Upgraded valves or cams even arent really needed at your power level though.

Obviously have all the internals balanced too.
Ive heard gm said that a balance shaft delete is worth 10hp too.

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

Im thinking Balance shaft delete, and an ATI Damper are definitely on the list. I just feel like with over 250hp at the wheels, wont really be able to put it down or use it well for road racing. Like 300 would be cool. but also not trying to break the bank, haha.

Who is "mr b"?

Pitbull2o08

iTrader: (2)

mr. B sells those things people need for that, I forget what it's called.

You could pulley down further and option B?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Mrbelvedere. Hes a member on here

andrewcarr1993

iTrader: (5)

Depends on what kind of racing, road track you'll be fine with a hell of a lot more than 250 wheels. Honestly it's probably better to slap on a TVS 1320 to your current setup and add a little cooling rather than build a second motor to add a little compression.

Colodude18 is putting down mid 400's with NT01's in second, definitely not first. If you're doing autocross you'll want less obviously. Being able to rev it out with the ATI, balance shaft delete and assuming the head is already ported and what not you'll be well off. John Powell is running 320 wheel no problem and becomes much more of a highway only car in my opinion passing the 350-400 range for most anyways, a very good tire will obviously do better at the track at laying down the power.

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

Its Road racing / time attack. And i want to build a new motor because this one was built by someone else.. and its got some little issues. its never been 100%. Id like to put something together that I know will be a good road race engine out here in Cali, on 91 gas and take my current engine and put it aside as a spare.

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

So now Im definitly thinking 300hp wheel for the car, since its kinda stuck at 2900 lbs with me in it currently. What needs to be done top end wise to be able to consistently rev to 7 grand. How crazy do i need to go with the head work / valves / springs to let it handle running at 7g's, because with some of the tracks out here, i realize thats where we are going to be.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I revved to 7k on stock l61 valvetrain but for racing you should at least do springs and retainers, if not some nice valves too. Dont have to be oversized, less machine work that way. The BS Delete will help with revs too.

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

Any suggestions on valve springs?

yellowsupercharged06

iTrader: (3)

go with an LSJ head and get the supertechs.

as for option b, its a cooling mod for the supercharger coolant. It is the #1 cooling mod that can be done. It bleeds the air out of the cooling system. When you say its not running too hot, are you looking at the iat2's ? what are they ? i know from experience that a day out on the track with an m62 those iats are not easy to keep down.

If you have access to e85 it is a great thing to add, it will give you some extra power. not sure how the fuel system on the 2.2 differs from the lsj.

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

E85 is out since the car is driven too much outside of the track, and its hard to find in SoCal. I wish. haha. Gonna be staying with 91 gas. In switching over to an LSJ head, any other trickery out there? Like do i need to run a certain set of head studs, or just the 2.2 one from ARP? same with the head gasket?


Hoping to start gutting this L61 in the next week or so to see what the block and crank look like.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Like i said youll have to find the thread where someone put an lsj head on their l61. There is some modifications that have to be done. Ecotecs all use the same headstuds, use an lsj headgasket.

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

Pondering picking this up for a cylinder head since its local: Thoughts? What else would you reccomend to do with it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Cobalt-LSJ-Cylinder-head-with-mild-performance-mods-/151668800606?hash=item23502a3c5e

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Looks like a good ass deal to me.

Just make sure your whole ignition box thingy will fit in the valvecover.

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

I guess the L61 valve cover wont fit the LSJ head?

Going to try and get that, then Im thinking if anything just a slight port and polish? What would you guys recommend or who is the best to talk to?


I've learned im 200hp down on the guys in my class, so I gotta try and put an engine together before the year is over, haha. This is a bit painful.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

So now you want 400hp?

Foximus

iTrader: (13)

The Civic winning our time attack class has 370whp and weighs 2400lbs with driver. I think If I can put 300-350whp down I can out drive him, even with being heavier.

Also, ZZP is trying to convince me I need a Gen 3 girdled 2.4 or 2.0 block. will the L61 block be fine to 300-350?

sandman

iTrader: (4)

should be more than enough for that

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Yeah you should be fine with the stock block.