2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

Question about ingalls

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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 10:55 PM
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From: Hopewell Jct.
Question about ingalls

ok, i dont know if this is posted in the right section, but anyone with the ingalls ETD please feel free to help me out here

it all of a sudden go REALLY cold here, we hgave been having 60 degree weather than over night it almost dropped down to like 10 ish, but in the morning before my car is hot there is a squeaking noise when i shift, or the car jerks like from a dead stop.. i think its the ETD just because the piston in it is so cold... but once the car gets to operating temp.. like 187-190 it stops, has anyone else has this problem??

thanks
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 10:57 PM
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YES.

I was at the dealer today and determined it was the culprit.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 10:59 PM
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From: Hopewell Jct.
Beautiful.. thank you, at first i though it was my right front strut... but i was like its not making noise on any bumps.. only if i like burp the throttle or shift like.. when i know the engine jerks, so i assumed that was the problem lol
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverBalt
Beautiful.. thank you, at first i though it was my right front strut... but i was like its not making noise on any bumps.. only if i like burp the throttle or shift like.. when i know the engine jerks, so i assumed that was the problem lol
Thats exactly what I thought might be the problem. I felt like a dumb ass when I opened the hood and could move the ETD.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 08:14 AM
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From: Hopewell Jct.
so what did u do, just tighten the ETD?
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverBalt
so what did u do, just tighten the ETD?
Yea, but it did it again. I am probably going to take it off.
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 08:45 PM
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From: wyoming
i notice at 30 below, it tends to be a little jerky. but once up to full temp its all good.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 04:05 PM
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I hope I'm not stepping on anyones toes here by registering as a manufacture's rep. I work as customer support here at Ingalls Engineering and hope that we can resolve any issues you guys have been having.
As with anything in this world, things shrink (contract) as they get colder. The problem is that what ever preload you may run in the warmer months may not be sufficient in the colder ones. When the temperature drops I would recommend running the preload higher (meaning less gap like 5mm, instead of 11mm) and writing yourself a reminder to drop it as spring comes back around. I'd hate to think that you need to remove our product due to an engineering issue, but in this case I think it is a simple fix.
I plan on sifting throught the board today and anwsering any technical questions I can. But if any of you need assistance or technical support, please don't hesitate to drop me a line at DanJ@IngallsEng.com.
Thanks guys,
Dan

Last edited by IngallsEng; Jan 29, 2007 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 09:48 PM
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From: Hopewell Jct.
Originally Posted by IngallsEng
I hope I'm not stepping on anyones toes here by registering as a manufacture's rep. I work as customer support here at Ingalls Engineering and hope that we can resolve any issues you guys have been having.
As with anything in this world, things shrink (contract) as they get colder. The problem is that what ever preload you may run in the warmer months may not be sufficient in the colder ones. When the temperature drops I would recommend running the preload higher (meaning less gap like 5mm, instead of 11mm) and writing yourself a reminder to drop it as spring comes back around. I'd hate to think that you need to remove our product due to an engineering issue, but in this case I think it is a simple fix.
I plan on sifting throught the board today and anwsering any technical questions I can. But if any of you need assistance or technical support, please don't hesitate to drop me a line at DanJ@IngallsEng.com.
Thanks guys,
Dan
wow, thanks alot for dropping in here.. so all i need to do is loosen it a turn or so and the noise should go away? (lol i figured it was due to the shrinking of it being so god damn cold) its just when it shrinks its embareassing :-P..
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 09:59 AM
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Technically you need to tighten it. Factory preload on our damper is set to 14mm, which is on the loose or softer side of the preload adjustment. Measuring from the end of the damper body to the plunger or preload nut should be changed from 14mm to a setting closer toward 11-12 mm. This will reduce clicking, popping, or squeaking, but will applify vibrations from the engine to the passenger cabin. The more preload you run the more vibration and less wheel hop you should experience. Shoot me an email if you need me to explain this to you further or have ANY other questions.
Thanks,
Dan
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 10:22 AM
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From: NOVA
Question, which size wrench should be used to tighten the damper, i still have it on the factory setting, and mine is alright, but will need to tighten it for autocross...thanks!
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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From: Louisville
I use 27mm or 1 & 1/16th bicycle wrenches (because they are very thin) for preload adjustments. They shouldn't be very expensive and can be found at any specialty bike shop.
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 11:58 AM
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mine does that too, it's reeeeeeeeeally annoying :P
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 03:32 PM
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From: Hopewell Jct.
yeah, it is ******* annoying, and i dont know.. im just getting used to it.. and i THINk its a 15mm wrench but i could be wrong... read the instructions lol i know it says it in there
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