2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

stage 2 comp cams and trifecta tune???!!

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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 07:44 PM
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stage 2 comp cams and trifecta tune???!!

so im thinking of investing in this setup...ive heard great things about trifecta tuning and im thinking a cam with their tune and my current bolt on mods could finally get my car to where i want it to be...whats everyone's opinion of this setup with those cams and their tune??
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 07:45 PM
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cams r good power adders...i am planning on doing it eventually...not now, but i know i need a real power adder seeing how i already have full bolt ons
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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yeah man i saw a vid of a 2.2 wit stage 2 cams and i jus want one now haha
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 08:13 PM
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i think he said his were actually stg1's he got confused, either way, stg1 r fine for street...stg2 are more for high reving
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 08:17 PM
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yeah stage 2's lift is alot more then stage 1 so im goin with stage 2 after this mod ill probably be done with the engine for a while so i jus wanna do it big ya know haha
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 11:30 PM
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i'd reccomend stg1 unless you plan on upping compression or running on the bottle. as aggressive as the stg2 cam is you will produce better power in the upper rpm but the engine wont make the best of it cause by the time you really start making good power it'll run out of breathing room. do a little research on the subject and you'll find out what i mean.
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 01:01 PM
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so its better to get stage 1 cams? but if u upgrade ur piston, rods, spings, lifters n etc than stage 2 are better to get now?
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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on average how much does everything cost? like cams pistons rods etc?(not trying to thread jack)
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 02:36 PM
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i did this once n i think it all came out to 2500-3000 for parts. n u need someone to install all these. but i may do this look up again.
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 02:37 PM
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well i saw a guy that had the stage 2 cams and wasn't running nitrous...
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 03:18 PM
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when i mean up crompression i mean going from 10:1 to say 10.5:1 or 11:1. doing this will produce more energy from the larger amounts of air the engine is ingesting and it will lower your knock threshold by starting combustion earlier. tuning will be required; however i suggest tuning regardless any time you significantly change the amount of air your engine ingests.
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 03:22 PM
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yeah most defiantly...im going with the tune from trifecta
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 03:31 PM
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do you know what stage 2 cams are going to do to your system? i'm not telling you how to spend your money but throwing in a set of cams isn't like adding an intake there is no inatant power involved here. cams change when and where your engine will produce its power based on rpm and how much air it can possibly pull in. please research the benefit of cams before just dropping em in. a few members have done so and though they may benefit from this at some point it's not going to fully utilize the true abilities of the cams or the engine itself.
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 04:32 PM
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that sounds good. i kinda already knew a little bout cams. cuz u have to know how much air is gonna be takin in from ur engine n wheather or not u need to upgrade other internals stuff. n figure wat compression ration u are tryin to aim at. thanks for the help spanky's monkey.
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 07:12 PM
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i know how an engine works im in school for it now i know about duration and lift i know exactly how the whole head works i was just throwing out the general question wondering if anyone knew anyone with the set up and all that...i am doing my research im currently trading emails with turbo tech and trifecta tuning
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 09:42 PM
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cool, just trying to help. have you decided on what you're going to do?
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 02:47 AM
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get em get em!

upgrade your valvetrain though to take advantage of the higher RPM without floating valves.
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 03:08 AM
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valve float is for the loss man...upgrade the springs too, they will help fight the lift
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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yea your right might as well do it the right way instead of breaking things..so im thinking these

springs

retainers


and ARP head studs


whats everyone's opinion on stock valves i think it should be alright
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 01:44 PM
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factory valves on the 2.2 are fine, except for if you wanna go F/I later.

i think they'll be able to handle the heat of a high CR high revving N/A engine, but it has never been done before on factory valves, so dont quote me.
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 02:30 PM
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i wouldn't worry about the valves handling the heat so much as them retaining it and causing pre-detonation. the real reason for swapping em out for an aftermarket set is that you can go bigger on the valve side for a better seal under pressure and most importantly almost all aftermarket valves are coated to prevent the transfer of heat which is the worst enemy of any engine. thermal energy is how the engine makes it's power however this is also it's curse cause too much heat is just too damn much and a couple of degrees can literally make or break the engine.

Last edited by Spanky's Monkey; Aug 2, 2008 at 09:57 PM.
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 02:32 PM
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that makes sense. i went with the stainless valves, intake & exhaust, just because i wanted to do it the "right" way, upgrade everything top end so i dont have problems later, i would recommend that to anyone.
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 09:53 PM
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yeah i think the valves should be alright ill jus do the springs to handle the higher lift from the cam
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Old Aug 3, 2008 | 09:57 PM
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im pretty sure the valves are already stainless steel, you dont see very many companies putting out valves that are not stainless... really after market valves are only worth it if they are ceramic coated, if the radius filet is cut at a better angle, neck downs, or are made from a different metal such as titanium
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Old Aug 3, 2008 | 11:04 PM
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well the ferrera valves are not stainless and they're designed for tuner applications so i'd have to take your opinion with a grain of salt. and most aftermarket valves are designed to higher tolerances then stock given the dumbshit we tuners are known to do to our cars. so all in all i'd say if you want to stay on the safe side get a build plan in line that will exceed the tolerances of your horsepower goals and mod with a piece of mind. just building power on stock componenets is fine until unnatural wear sets in and starts breaking **** that was working fine just weeks after you started adding more air and fuel.
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