xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

iTrader: (1)

Last time we talked, they were changing servers for their website, and they haven't gotten around to transferring pictures yet.

It shouldn't give any difference in performance?.. They didn't even dyno it?



I would assume there would be a difference in performance.. It was a totally different design..

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

not a totally diff design, just that the pairs of headers were swapped.
they didnt dyno it back then cause no one was buying parts on the scale they do now haha
and you are correct, i miss spelled, it SHOULDNT give any difference

huckernage

everyday I do it over 7000 but not everything i go that high.

xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

iTrader: (1)

I thought you would yield more power, pairing the firing cylinders in correct order like the older model.

My limiter hits at like 7,000.. Or whatever it is for the stock 5-speed..

Not for much longer though!

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

stock limiter is 6.5k
hucker and i both are up at 7.5k lol

as far as pairing the cyl, from what i have gathered while talking with them, it doestn really seem to matter much at all perf wise. im sure you do gain an adv one way or the other, but not enough to really matter. the one i have is the original design

huckernage

who will be first at 8100 with valvetrain and neutral balance shaft.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

screw neutral balance...im going NO balance shafts hahah, getting the delete kit.

im not doing that now though, have to refocus some energy from the car to getting some bills taken care of and some college work done.

and really...we dont make ENOUGH power up there to really justify it without ALOT of other mods to make it worthwhile

i certainly wont do either till my engine is pulled and built

07cobaltguy

oh god what is with you guys and the balance delete kit? I rode in a lsj with that and i think i lost some fillings. The vibrations are about the equiv of welding your motor straight to your frame with no bushings.

huckernage

do you have some video of that.

no delete for me

8100 it my dream. here my scenario.
1-7800
2-8000
3-7700
4-7200

i ll finish my ź in ž of my third gears.

now at 7500, i m limit to finish it in third gear

07cobaltguy

unfortunatly i dont. we dont associate with him anymore. but the car was just brutal to ride in. the vibrations were absolutly nuts, and uncomfortable.

huckernage

you mean with a delete shaft cause neutral is just on idle you feel it.

tell me about his support. trans and motor were stock?

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

i have poly trans mounts, solid engine mount, cams, and am lowered pretty far...car vibrates like crazy as is

07cobaltguy

he was januarys COTM.

xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

iTrader: (1)

I thought it was higher than 6.5k.. I hit it the other day on accident..

WOT + cold street = OOPS!



I see no reason for the balance delete kit, or the neutral kit. Not for us anyway.. LSJ/LNF, sure.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

it makes sense cause you can then rev out to 8k plus and for cams, that can be AWESOME!

as for the 6.5k...it makes sense to leave it there unless you need it higher....

and as for my setup...its pending pymnt/ delivery....so pretty much sold already :P

xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

iTrader: (1)

Very nice! When tuned by Trifecta, will the rev be raised?.. I'm always afraid to hit it, can't really be good for the car as that's basically the motor saying okay the internals can't handle much more, we're going to cut you off now.

I'm sure there is a bit of lee-way, but I'm no expert.

huckernage

yes it up to you. 5900-6666-7200-7600. you choice it.

hit it at 6500 not that bad. hit it 7500 not good but **** happen.
- when i suggest a rpm setpoint i always put higher that he ask for.
if i put yours at 7500 and you always shift at 7100 you wont never hit it and have some fun.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

but you MIGHT hit it and thats the problem

if i were you i would say set it at 7100rpm ish

but you MIGHT hit it and thats the problem

if i were you i would say set it at 7100rpm ish

xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I want it raised a little so I can have some fun, but not in the area for destroying ****.

Is it possible to break anything hitting the stock limiter?.. If you bump it up then you're pushing the motor farther than it was intended, and sure to break something.

---------------

On a side note, NightHawk: I honestly think a 3" cat-back is too big.. I wouldn't use anything over 2.5" for N/A.. Even WITH cams.

My 2˘

My reasoning: To reduce additional backpressure, the OEM exhaust tubing can be replaced with madrel-bent tubing of the same size or one size up from the OEM. As a general rule, you can enlarge the pipe diameter of your OEM exhaust system by 1/4- to 1/2-inch to increase your horsepower. However, any additional increase in pipe diameter is likely to decrease your performance; specifically, low end torque.

Bigger is not always better.

Up to 250 Horsepower is best served by a 2 1/2" exhaust.

I'm not saying anything bad against you, I'm just throwing it out there. I got it from the MagnaFlow website.

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

well very soon i will be over 250whp and i have a 2.5" muffler to create the backpressure

and ya, i understand :P

07cobaltguy

i run my car out to 7k have yet to have issues. The L61/LE5/LSJ/LNF all have the same valve springs. lsj's regularly run out to 7400

xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

iTrader: (1)

Going forced induction?? I was randomly reading up.. And these guys on this Camaro are saying that 3" is too big for even 300 WHP. Good for high-end though!

Although, if you have the right size primaries then the system behind that really shouldn't cause to you lose too much.

Really? I didn't know that.. +1 for information!

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

right, valve float is at 7500rpm


and no, staying n/a for my build...

huckernage

wtf tommisssss

will you grind a stg 10 cam somewhere to get around 250

you dream in color lol

NWAE Cobalt

iTrader: (1)

nope...250 wont be now, but son enough....

lets just say....n/a allllll motor!