Timing Chain Tensioner
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 03-05-09
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Timing Chain Tensioner
Just got a new tensioner from CED.
Do you just take the old one out and put the new one in? Or does it need to be tapped and unsprung with the valve cover removed?
I've heard mixed responses, and I'd rather not tank the motor.
Do you just take the old one out and put the new one in? Or does it need to be tapped and unsprung with the valve cover removed?
I've heard mixed responses, and I'd rather not tank the motor.
#3
Banned
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: 09-07-11
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does your new tensioner come apart or is it one piece? If its one piece then you just put it in and you're done. However, I'd recommend taking the valve cover off first so you can make sure the timing chain doesn't skip teeth when you take out the old tensioner
#4
Senior Member
Me too. Hasnt been as long as this, maybe three months. But mine is fine. And the people that posted that this was fine are people who have been around these forums for a long time, and ones I trust.
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 03-05-09
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The new one I bought is the new design from GM. One piece and locked into place with a retainer clip it appears. I've just heard mixed things about putting it in and am kind of paranoid.
#8
Senior Member
They are hydraulic, and with the engine off( no oil pressure ) you shouldn't jump time pulling the old one. New one is pre set from the factory. Just make sure you get the right torque spec for install. I don't remember what it is off the top of my head.
#9
Rattlesnake Race Shop
iTrader: (1)
Just take out the old one CAREFULLY and then put in the new one. I say to be careful with the old one, because if it is too far gone, it WILL fall apart and potentially drop pieces into your engine... then you're stuck taking off the oil pan to pick them out.
I changed mine in the parking lot of the CED 2010 meet... then drove the car 300 miles home. Never a problem. There's a picture floating around somewhere on here of my old tensioner in pieces on the asphalt.
EDIT: Found the picture... unless your tensioner is to the point of ticking... I don't know that you'll have this problem.
I changed mine in the parking lot of the CED 2010 meet... then drove the car 300 miles home. Never a problem. There's a picture floating around somewhere on here of my old tensioner in pieces on the asphalt.
EDIT: Found the picture... unless your tensioner is to the point of ticking... I don't know that you'll have this problem.
Last edited by USMCFieldMP; 01-27-2012 at 04:18 AM.
#10
Normally a stopped engine will be in a position where there should not be too much load on the valvetrain (and so on the chain).
If you want to be safe, just turn the big crank bolt with a spanner to the TDC mark, then just swap the tensionners
If you want to be safe, just turn the big crank bolt with a spanner to the TDC mark, then just swap the tensionners
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 03-05-09
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just take out the old one CAREFULLY and then put in the new one. I say to be careful with the old one, because if it is too far gone, it WILL fall apart and potentially drop pieces into your engine... then you're stuck taking off the oil pan to pick them out.
I changed mine in the parking lot of the CED 2010 meet... then drove the car 300 miles home. Never a problem. There's a picture floating around somewhere on here of my old tensioner in pieces on the asphalt.
EDIT: Found the picture... unless your tensioner is to the point of ticking... I don't know that you'll have this problem.
I changed mine in the parking lot of the CED 2010 meet... then drove the car 300 miles home. Never a problem. There's a picture floating around somewhere on here of my old tensioner in pieces on the asphalt.
EDIT: Found the picture... unless your tensioner is to the point of ticking... I don't know that you'll have this problem.
#17
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 03-05-09
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Or the hydraulic tensioner on the rear, which is a 32mm
#19
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: 03-28-11
Location: Salisbury, PA.
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
that is what you need to do when replacing the old tensioner with the a new tensioner OF THE SAME DESIGN. the tensioner from CED is a little differant, and from what i have done and heard, you do not have to reset anything, i replaced mine 2 days agao and didnt set mine, just had the car out today and no more noises.
#23
I have my tensioner sitting next to my laptop right now, haha. Going to R&R this piece of **** on Saturday morning.
Last edited by chris88z24; 02-16-2012 at 11:23 PM.
#24
Premium Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: 02-23-11
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,454
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i got mine in, and it started up just fine. no weird noises or anything. if it skipped teeth there would be a CEL right? even if it only skipped just one? i guess im being a bit paranoid
you might still have part of your old tensioner in there. mine was a piece of cake to put in
you might still have part of your old tensioner in there. mine was a piece of cake to put in
Last edited by drumrush; 02-18-2012 at 01:16 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost