True Potential
True Potential
I wish someone had #s to show the potential of the 2.2L and the 2.4L ecotec...you see so many #s on cars that have been worked on, and I got to know if this car will be one of those cars that people will look at and be like...wow...thats a fast piece of beauty.
The mazda 3s are coming alone nicely, they got the 2.0L up to 350whp and like 360wtq. while the 2.3L....is up to an amazing 500whp!!! We all know that the 500 is more impressive, but the 2.0 is proven to be more turbo friendly...
but overall...who here really things that this car will be a heavy hitter once turbos, downpipes, 3.5in exhaust are on, chips, managers, 20psi , 17lb wheels on,...is going to be something that is amazing..past ...i mean PAST those STIs....
whats the fastest cav that was ever built? I have seen one walk a evo...it was amazing.
I REALLY want the next car i buy able to be modded over at least...400whp and 400wtq...
the 2.2L seems to be more TQ friendly than the 2.4L....even though #s will be a lil higher on the 2.4L
i sorta wanted to post that for this reason, and NO one posts enough! gotta get some good forums topics going...
The mazda 3s are coming alone nicely, they got the 2.0L up to 350whp and like 360wtq. while the 2.3L....is up to an amazing 500whp!!! We all know that the 500 is more impressive, but the 2.0 is proven to be more turbo friendly...
but overall...who here really things that this car will be a heavy hitter once turbos, downpipes, 3.5in exhaust are on, chips, managers, 20psi , 17lb wheels on,...is going to be something that is amazing..past ...i mean PAST those STIs....
whats the fastest cav that was ever built? I have seen one walk a evo...it was amazing.
I REALLY want the next car i buy able to be modded over at least...400whp and 400wtq...
the 2.2L seems to be more TQ friendly than the 2.4L....even though #s will be a lil higher on the 2.4L
i sorta wanted to post that for this reason, and NO one posts enough! gotta get some good forums topics going...
those Garrett reps better have GOOD hard #s on the sheet for the turbo for 2.2L...or ill strangle each one of them!!! driving almost 2 hours...my mind hopes for seeing... at 8psi an amazing 225whp.
you want to see the true potential look up the gm performance build book they were using a 2.2 enigne in most of it i belive and aren't all cobalts the same block just diff internals therefore making it competly possible 'thugh not strret leagal' to make 1400 hp
you haven't seen anything amazing with these cars yet because there isn't crap out for these cars yet. And to be honest I think there is maybe one guy with a 2.2 that is doing anything that will stand out. Everyone else seems to be worried about intake and exhaust and their speed governor. I think it might be atleast another year before you see something amazing out of a 2.2.
I can't help you with the 2.4L. Here's what I know about the 2.2, and it's all old info, but anyway;
You can boost a stock engine to about 280 HP before stuff starts breaking. Most kit manufacturers are running 8psi and keeping the engine around 230HP to keep things reliable. It doesn't matter if you get the garrett or the Hahn, they are going to do the same things in the end.
You can modify your engine with improved rods and pistons only and safely crank out about 400 HP. This is the article targeted in the Build Book. Either of the turbo kits above would be able to do the job with a simple increase of boost and retuning.
You can hit 500 HP with a change of head bolts to studs and an improved valve train. You would need a better turbo then the one typically provided in the kits above.
Above 500 HP requires modifications that are not street legal.
The most power you will probably make using street legal 93 octane pump gas will be 325HP. Above that, you will have to use a higher octane gas, and therefore you will not be street emissions legal. However, you can drive to the track legally, switch to your race gas tank and put on your slicks and have a fun day, then switch back to your regular tank and put your street tires back on and drive home.
Keep in mind that none of the above addresses the rest of the powertrain (trans, axles, tires, etc.)
You can boost a stock engine to about 280 HP before stuff starts breaking. Most kit manufacturers are running 8psi and keeping the engine around 230HP to keep things reliable. It doesn't matter if you get the garrett or the Hahn, they are going to do the same things in the end.
You can modify your engine with improved rods and pistons only and safely crank out about 400 HP. This is the article targeted in the Build Book. Either of the turbo kits above would be able to do the job with a simple increase of boost and retuning.
You can hit 500 HP with a change of head bolts to studs and an improved valve train. You would need a better turbo then the one typically provided in the kits above.
Above 500 HP requires modifications that are not street legal.
The most power you will probably make using street legal 93 octane pump gas will be 325HP. Above that, you will have to use a higher octane gas, and therefore you will not be street emissions legal. However, you can drive to the track legally, switch to your race gas tank and put on your slicks and have a fun day, then switch back to your regular tank and put your street tires back on and drive home.
Keep in mind that none of the above addresses the rest of the powertrain (trans, axles, tires, etc.)
I'm all for the turbo! My large project this summer involves upgrading internals to support a high boost application. I will likely upgrade more than what Halfcent pointed out, mainly because this car is driven more than usual. So, I really don't want the un-scheduled downtime should something actually blow up.
I've pretty much got all my bolt-on's purchased and ready for install, but now it's time to get my hands dirty.
I've pretty much got all my bolt-on's purchased and ready for install, but now it's time to get my hands dirty.
Originally Posted by r@z0r
I'm all for the turbo! My large project this summer involves upgrading internals to support a high boost application. I will likely upgrade more than what Halfcent pointed out, mainly because this car is driven more than usual. So, I really don't want the un-scheduled downtime should something actually blow up.
I've pretty much got all my bolt-on's purchased and ready for install, but now it's time to get my hands dirty.
I've pretty much got all my bolt-on's purchased and ready for install, but now it's time to get my hands dirty.
in all honesty and this isnt caus im on this cobalt forum, i think the potential for the balts are amazing, once they have been out for a while, with gm stage kits, and other parts from other companies the cobalt will fly.
Originally Posted by Halfcent
I can't help you with the 2.4L. Here's what I know about the 2.2, and it's all old info, but anyway;
You can boost a stock engine to about 280 HP before stuff starts breaking. Most kit manufacturers are running 8psi and keeping the engine around 230HP to keep things reliable. It doesn't matter if you get the garrett or the Hahn, they are going to do the same things in the end.
You can modify your engine with improved rods and pistons only and safely crank out about 400 HP. This is the article targeted in the Build Book. Either of the turbo kits above would be able to do the job with a simple increase of boost and retuning.
You can hit 500 HP with a change of head bolts to studs and an improved valve train. You would need a better turbo then the one typically provided in the kits above.
Above 500 HP requires modifications that are not street legal.
The most power you will probably make using street legal 93 octane pump gas will be 325HP. Above that, you will have to use a higher octane gas, and therefore you will not be street emissions legal. However, you can drive to the track legally, switch to your race gas tank and put on your slicks and have a fun day, then switch back to your regular tank and put your street tires back on and drive home.
Keep in mind that none of the above addresses the rest of the powertrain (trans, axles, tires, etc.)
You can boost a stock engine to about 280 HP before stuff starts breaking. Most kit manufacturers are running 8psi and keeping the engine around 230HP to keep things reliable. It doesn't matter if you get the garrett or the Hahn, they are going to do the same things in the end.
You can modify your engine with improved rods and pistons only and safely crank out about 400 HP. This is the article targeted in the Build Book. Either of the turbo kits above would be able to do the job with a simple increase of boost and retuning.
You can hit 500 HP with a change of head bolts to studs and an improved valve train. You would need a better turbo then the one typically provided in the kits above.
Above 500 HP requires modifications that are not street legal.
The most power you will probably make using street legal 93 octane pump gas will be 325HP. Above that, you will have to use a higher octane gas, and therefore you will not be street emissions legal. However, you can drive to the track legally, switch to your race gas tank and put on your slicks and have a fun day, then switch back to your regular tank and put your street tires back on and drive home.
Keep in mind that none of the above addresses the rest of the powertrain (trans, axles, tires, etc.)
Originally Posted by r@z0r
I'm all for the turbo! My large project this summer involves upgrading internals to support a high boost application. I will likely upgrade more than what Halfcent pointed out, mainly because this car is driven more than usual. So, I really don't want the un-scheduled downtime should something actually blow up.
I've pretty much got all my bolt-on's purchased and ready for install, but now it's time to get my hands dirty.
I've pretty much got all my bolt-on's purchased and ready for install, but now it's time to get my hands dirty.
Originally Posted by CivicKiller98
This guy knows his stuff, i would try to get yourself a copy of the gm build book, all this information and more in there. they took a cobalt to 1400hp
Although I agree that it is possible with the proper modifications.. $$$$$$$$$$
You'll find that a FWD car with over 400 is basically a waste of time.
Driveshafts and trannys will pop.
i just wanna have my cobalt running in the 12's at the 1/4 mile i dont care what power its making as long as its using the power it has to its full potential im hoping 350 whp will do it
yes, i agree it will and can be done in the near future the cobalt has been out for a little over a year, this is the reason i kept my ls even though i have the ss/sc i want to see what can be done to the ls and what we can get.
why isn't 12's realistic? There's a street legal cavy running 11.9 on a stock engine. (yes thats very freakish that he ddin't break it yet) But that's just to show that it can be done. I also don't understand why you guys say that you need high octane gas. Don't you realize that when you run that much horsepower you are going to need to get an ignition anyway. so why wouldn't you retard your timing?
once the base and SS(non SC) get turboed they will prob take a SRT4 stock...i am 99% sure the SS will no problem. plus your saving a few k and insurance!
can easily get the engine up to 230hp on ...8psi...just bring it up to about 12psi with forged internals...beat it no problem
maybe some weight reduction
can easily get the engine up to 230hp on ...8psi...just bring it up to about 12psi with forged internals...beat it no problem
maybe some weight reduction
Originally Posted by boosted2.2
why isn't 12's realistic? There's a street legal cavy running 11.9 on a stock engine. (yes thats very freakish that he ddin't break it yet) But that's just to show that it can be done. I also don't understand why you guys say that you need high octane gas. Don't you realize that when you run that much horsepower you are going to need to get an ignition anyway. so why wouldn't you retard your timing?
you are going to need to build the bottom end (maybe even the top end) and throw a ton of boost at it. Not to mention building your drivetrain to go with it...its going to be costly.


