2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

yellows supercharged 2.2 probs.

Old May 14, 2007 | 05:54 PM
  #26  
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well you could always take the supercharger off. take it to stock. see if the car runs normal and if it does drive it for a bit. then ina week put the supercharger back on.

that or limit ur boost pressure. have the supercharger run at 30% boost instead of the 100% right now. limit how much air the supercharger uses and maybe it will notice the difference and fix the code. lots of guys limit their boost with HPT in 1st gear as a boost ram to help launch. if u run it all the time who knows.
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Old May 14, 2007 | 06:11 PM
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it wont even idle now it does but only 15 sec. then ding ding ding REP code
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Old May 14, 2007 | 06:29 PM
  #28  
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Replace your gas pedal assembley and see if that works

According to your code, your Throttle Posistion Sensor is out of wack
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Old May 14, 2007 | 06:33 PM
  #29  
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im thinking about 03-04 cav. tb. with cable right now. if this keeps up.
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Old May 14, 2007 | 06:35 PM
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The cobalt uses an Electronic throttlebody, a cable throttlebody will not work, besides, if the code is correct, your gas pedal is the problem, not your TB
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Old May 14, 2007 | 06:47 PM
  #31  
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a cabled tb will work but theres alot of different pieces that i would have to get. beside i think your right on the gas pedal ihooked up my other tb the original it would only open i little bit. im taking out the blues pedal to see if that fixes it.
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Old May 14, 2007 | 06:55 PM
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hope thats the problem man... and I want some more vids up once you get this thing all dialed in. I have a few people interested in doing this swap
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Old May 15, 2007 | 03:19 PM
  #33  
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ok ive changed the gas pedal and cleared the code now the only code i have is

P2135 throttle pedal position sensor switch A/B voltage correlation how the hell do i fix this?????
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Old May 15, 2007 | 03:25 PM
  #34  
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Does the car still run in limp?

DTC P2135
TP sensor No.1/No.2 voltage correlation

DETECTION CONDITION
The PCM compares the TP sensor No.1 signal value and TP sensor No.2 signal value. If the signal correlation for both is out of specification, the PCM determines that the TP sensor has a malfunction.
Diagnostic support note
This is a continuous monitor (CCM).
MIL illuminates if PCM detects the above malfunction condition during first drive cycle.

Last edited by HackAbuse; May 15, 2007 at 03:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old May 15, 2007 | 03:29 PM
  #35  
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so how do i fix this?
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Old May 15, 2007 | 03:34 PM
  #36  
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Get a new TPS?
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Old May 15, 2007 | 03:37 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by yellowshowbalt
so how do i fix this?
I found some info on a Mazda forum, they say they get a reflash on the PCM, and sometimes need to replace the throttlebody
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Old May 15, 2007 | 03:59 PM
  #38  
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im going to hook up the other tb and see if that works
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Old May 15, 2007 | 04:01 PM
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If that doesnt fix it, it's probably your PCM
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Old May 15, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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let me know what happens im having the same problems im taking it in tomorrow

except im on an ss/sc , same **** thought im pretty sure im throwing a tps code

Last edited by Red2.4SS/SC; May 15, 2007 at 04:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old May 15, 2007 | 04:22 PM
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Im fairly convinced that either your throttle body or the TPS wiring is bad.

TP1 is a falling rate signal that should be showing ~5v at closed throttle and almost 0v at WOT. TP2 is the opposite and a usual candidate for nitrous installation as its ~0v at closed throttle and ~5v at WOT, or a rising rate signal. TP1 is the primary signal for TPS and TP2 serves as a correlation check if I remember correctly. If TP1 is showing incorrect values than predicted, a slew of emissions code will set since its the primary. If TP2 is incorrect, usually just the correlation DTC that you are getting now will set.

For them to be not inline with each other, either the TB itself or the wiring would be bad to TP2. Possibly PCM as well.
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Old May 15, 2007 | 04:27 PM
  #42  
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Witt owned me
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Old May 15, 2007 | 04:35 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by HackAbuse
Witt owned me
nooooo, I just expanded on what you said. I only learned all that useless knowledge from installing omgwtf nawz on my car.
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Old May 15, 2007 | 04:39 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Witt
nooooo, I just expanded on what you said. I only learned all that useless knowledge from installing omgwtf nawz on my car.
Yeah, you owned me in the knowledge dept, I think i'm pretty good for bein 18 though
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Old May 15, 2007 | 05:31 PM
  #45  
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well its fixed and no codes had to change my gas pedal and tb. to fix this. and i just drove it to the store and to the parts store. hey where can i get maybe 1-2 range colder plugs
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Old May 15, 2007 | 05:33 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by yellowshowbalt
well its fixed and no codes had to change my gas pedal and tb. to fix this. and i just drove it to the store and to the parts store. hey where can i get maybe 1-2 range colder plugs
I find the cheapie copper core plugs work best for forced induction. Copper=best conductor. They don't last as long tho. An easy way to find one range colder on an autolite is take your stock part number and subtract one from it. ie. the LSJ stock plug is 3923, one range colder is 3922. I'm not sure what the L61 uses tho.
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Old May 15, 2007 | 05:41 PM
  #47  
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ok thanks ! but how in the hell does both of them go bad just like that..
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Old May 15, 2007 | 09:02 PM
  #48  
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GM powah, that's how. Oh... and you umm.. added a supercharger. Yep.
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Old May 15, 2007 | 09:02 PM
  #49  
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Maybe a short circuit or voltage spike.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 12:04 PM
  #50  
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I was just able to reproduce your problem. I was cleaning up wiring harness bundles just now under my hood. One of the items I cleaned up was the throttle body plug. I retaped it. When I started the car, it instantly went to limp mode, stalled, and gave the same codes you listed.

I went back under the hood, un-taped it, inspected the harness (everything looked fine), re-taped it again, and put it all back together and everything is fine now.

It's your plug on your TB. Your old accelerator pedal and TB are fine.
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