should i S/C my 2.2?
#27
WAY too many complete scrubs giving you terrible information on what to do with your 2.2 L61. I was one of the first people to throw the m62 on my 2.2 and I have had ZERO issues after 28k+ miles and 4 years (low miles i know but I love my sport bike)
I have run a setup of 16psi equating to 250+WHP especially in the colder months as I dyno'd 248whp @ 98F and 75% humidity and have since dropped a pulley size. If you run all the necessary supporting mods for cooling and have the car tuned by someone OTHER than the trifecta idiot out in Washington state you will be just fine. THERE IS NO NEED TO FORGE THE BOTTOM END FOR AN M62!!!!! Unless you plan on running cams and a 2.6 pulley or a TVS.
/end rant
I have run a setup of 16psi equating to 250+WHP especially in the colder months as I dyno'd 248whp @ 98F and 75% humidity and have since dropped a pulley size. If you run all the necessary supporting mods for cooling and have the car tuned by someone OTHER than the trifecta idiot out in Washington state you will be just fine. THERE IS NO NEED TO FORGE THE BOTTOM END FOR AN M62!!!!! Unless you plan on running cams and a 2.6 pulley or a TVS.
/end rant
#30
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Also, I had a talk not too long ago with one of the other engineers at work that designs our connecting rods and he said they usually have a k factor of 25 - 33% which is a safety rating above their power ratings. So say we have an engine with rods that are rated for 100hp, technically they would be good up until 125hp - 133hp. This accounts for knock and all that fun stuff...As long as you have a good tune this shouldn't be a worry.
#31
#32
Also, I had a talk not too long ago with one of the other engineers at work that designs our connecting rods and he said they usually have a k factor of 25 - 33% which is a safety rating above their power ratings. So say we have an engine with rods that are rated for 100hp, technically they would be good up until 125hp - 133hp. This accounts for knock and all that fun stuff...As long as you have a good tune this shouldn't be a worry.
My research back in 2008 on the 2.2 block led me to believe that the stock internals were good to about 275whp or so before you have a legitimate chance of snapping a rod @ WOT with an "un-perfected tune"
#35
#36
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so my internals will be good with just a blower and some other bolt ons? OK.
what about my axles? that's the other weak point in cobalt seems to be them. they should be fine as long as I don't launch the **** out of it every chance I get right?
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what about my axles? that's the other weak point in cobalt seems to be them. they should be fine as long as I don't launch the **** out of it every chance I get right?
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#38
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so my internals will be good with just a blower and some other bolt ons? OK.
what about my axles? that's the other weak point in cobalt seems to be them. they should be fine as long as I don't launch the **** out of it every chance I get right?
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what about my axles? that's the other weak point in cobalt seems to be them. they should be fine as long as I don't launch the **** out of it every chance I get right?
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Find someone local with HP tuners.
#39
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i just sold my turbo kit off my car. i had 235hp and 250tq and my vvt was fucked until i took of my kit and fixed it.
if you know 110% what youre doing then the car should run right and should last. i had my turbo kit for over 20,000 miles at 8psi and internals are fine.
as for spending/ wasting money, its up to you if you want to put all that time, hard work,and money into a car that is worth like 7-8k.
if you know 110% what youre doing then the car should run right and should last. i had my turbo kit for over 20,000 miles at 8psi and internals are fine.
as for spending/ wasting money, its up to you if you want to put all that time, hard work,and money into a car that is worth like 7-8k.
#41
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Granted I'm at 10k miles supercharged at 13psi, not showing any mercy, no problems yet. But I have a bad feeling she's gonna blow. Dynod 213/199 on a hot ass day on a lower reading dyno
#42
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turbo it and aim for 200-210WHP... call it a day. Still a phenomenal increase in TQ and HP...
You are adding 50-70 HP and TQ.. what more can you ask for without building the car up.
You are adding 50-70 HP and TQ.. what more can you ask for without building the car up.
#43
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So our rods are rated at 125 + 25 -33% would calculate to ~167whp... Sounds like someone is talking out of their ass here as every 2.2L with an M62 is pushing over 190whp unless they have their boost tuned way down.
My research back in 2008 on the 2.2 block led me to believe that the stock internals were good to about 275whp or so before you have a legitimate chance of snapping a rod @ WOT with an "un-perfected tune"
My research back in 2008 on the 2.2 block led me to believe that the stock internals were good to about 275whp or so before you have a legitimate chance of snapping a rod @ WOT with an "un-perfected tune"
#44
When I said "one of our rods" I was using an example from one of our outboard (marine) engines. What I am saying is that GM has some sort of safety net calculated in over their ratings. The stock rods are rated at 250 HP, safety factor would be calculated in after this.
#48
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Originally Posted by IonNinja
rods are tiny but they are generally not the first thing to go on these motors
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#49
Either bolt the SC on and trust what we have told you or your going to have to build the entire engine up now. As for failure of non-internal engine parts... fix it when it breaks....
#50
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Originally Posted by ml2242
Quote:
Originally Posted by owlwyn
then what is? from my understanding that seemed to be the weak point on them
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I think your worrying a bit too much about what could go wrong. You really can't JUST replace your rods or JUST your sleeves ect...
Either bolt the SC on and trust what we have told you or your going to have to build the entire engine up now. As for failure of non-internal engine parts... fix it when it breaks....
Originally Posted by owlwyn
then what is? from my understanding that seemed to be the weak point on them
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I think your worrying a bit too much about what could go wrong. You really can't JUST replace your rods or JUST your sleeves ect...
Either bolt the SC on and trust what we have told you or your going to have to build the entire engine up now. As for failure of non-internal engine parts... fix it when it breaks....
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