Supercharged G5 up and running (kind of)
Supercharged G5 up and running (kind of)
The 1st start up was honestly a little tough, It cranked.and ignition just could not catch(Thats the best way I can describe it), but after realizing the throttle body was unplugged (which I feel very stupid about) we were go but still it took a couple cranks and before it started, and damn it run smooth, its a different machine now, thats for sure.
We then went out for 1st drive for data logging and the air to fuel is perfect, its boosting at 10psi and holds vacuum so no leaks! We were just running off the base tune un-tweaked and it ran so well!
BUT there is a ghost problem, on that datalog drive the engine cut off randomly twice, the 1st time 30mins in is my guess(The video holds real answer there) it started back up with one crank,but the 2nd time we had to push the car 3miles back to my house...Btw those damn tow hooks you see and maybe make of fun of, would of been nice to have yesterday
Trouble shoot take One
I cranked the car this morning and after a couple time it started.
We hooked up the car to a basic engine monitoring software/scan tool, its reading intake temps 98* at cold start, So I think I can eliminate the MAF wiring, if the Ia1 wire was misplaced it wouldn't be reading temps.
I then removed the fuel rail, checked the harness for power and ground its all in check, then jumped the injectors and they are all functioning. The sparkplugs look fine(Just the bosch 4+ that I was running when NA) they are sparking.
I attempted to use the stock fuel rail just for the hell of it, but its too short and the injectors did not seat fully in the block which is why I used the lsj's to begin with, so went back to the lsj rail.
Right now the car is running once again after a couple starts, Im just letting it sit and run for now, let it burn up some of the 87 thats still in the tank.

Maybe the datalogs/tune holds the answer....updates to come.
We then went out for 1st drive for data logging and the air to fuel is perfect, its boosting at 10psi and holds vacuum so no leaks! We were just running off the base tune un-tweaked and it ran so well!
BUT there is a ghost problem, on that datalog drive the engine cut off randomly twice, the 1st time 30mins in is my guess(The video holds real answer there) it started back up with one crank,but the 2nd time we had to push the car 3miles back to my house...Btw those damn tow hooks you see and maybe make of fun of, would of been nice to have yesterday
Trouble shoot take One
I cranked the car this morning and after a couple time it started.
We hooked up the car to a basic engine monitoring software/scan tool, its reading intake temps 98* at cold start, So I think I can eliminate the MAF wiring, if the Ia1 wire was misplaced it wouldn't be reading temps.
I then removed the fuel rail, checked the harness for power and ground its all in check, then jumped the injectors and they are all functioning. The sparkplugs look fine(Just the bosch 4+ that I was running when NA) they are sparking.
I attempted to use the stock fuel rail just for the hell of it, but its too short and the injectors did not seat fully in the block which is why I used the lsj's to begin with, so went back to the lsj rail.
Right now the car is running once again after a couple starts, Im just letting it sit and run for now, let it burn up some of the 87 thats still in the tank.

Maybe the datalogs/tune holds the answer....updates to come.
well remember all you need to start an engine is air/fuel/spark.
-spark = you didn't mess with the spark so you should be fine there
-air = this is a very good possibility. triple check your TB connections. the logs should show if something went wrong with the TB
-fuel = another good possibility. but it only happens every once in awhile you say so i can almost rule this one out
i am thinking you might have a short in the wiring for the TB creating an intermittent problem. hope you get it working good
-spark = you didn't mess with the spark so you should be fine there
-air = this is a very good possibility. triple check your TB connections. the logs should show if something went wrong with the TB
-fuel = another good possibility. but it only happens every once in awhile you say so i can almost rule this one out
i am thinking you might have a short in the wiring for the TB creating an intermittent problem. hope you get it working good
IM sorry its just I have been getting hate on the yellow from other forums and Im just not in the mood for bs since the car is not 100% atm, once again sorry for my short fuse man, Its css so I expect it.
im going to go over the throttle body once more I did have to convert my 6 pin to a 8pin off this diagram
http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...ireHarness.jpg
thank you.
well remember all you need to start an engine is air/fuel/spark.
-spark = you didn't mess with the spark so you should be fine there
-air = this is a very good possibility. triple check your TB connections. the logs should show if something went wrong with the TB
-fuel = another good possibility. but it only happens every once in awhile you say so i can almost rule this one out
i am thinking you might have a short in the wiring for the TB creating an intermittent problem. hope you get it working good
-spark = you didn't mess with the spark so you should be fine there
-air = this is a very good possibility. triple check your TB connections. the logs should show if something went wrong with the TB
-fuel = another good possibility. but it only happens every once in awhile you say so i can almost rule this one out
i am thinking you might have a short in the wiring for the TB creating an intermittent problem. hope you get it working good
http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...ireHarness.jpg
thank you.
Last edited by EcoTecDriver; Aug 1, 2010 at 04:47 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Heres 2 vids the 1st one is the 1st attempt at starting today, and thats with the new plugs
Video 2 is after 10 mins of the car running and another 10-20 cooling before trying to start again with the MAF cleaned.
Attempt 1 (click the pic)

Attempt 2(Click the pic)

When the car starts it runs, I took it around the block a couple time and fine, its this random starting issue thats so very puzzling to me....
The last things I can check is the questionable MAF wiring, its possible the ia1 and low reference are swapped, but the car is reading intake temps, at-least our cheap software reads it @ 98* at cold start idle.
and then the throttle body wiring
Video 2 is after 10 mins of the car running and another 10-20 cooling before trying to start again with the MAF cleaned.
Attempt 1 (click the pic)

Attempt 2(Click the pic)

When the car starts it runs, I took it around the block a couple time and fine, its this random starting issue thats so very puzzling to me....
The last things I can check is the questionable MAF wiring, its possible the ia1 and low reference are swapped, but the car is reading intake temps, at-least our cheap software reads it @ 98* at cold start idle.
and then the throttle body wiring
And just dilute the 87? theres about little over half a tank of 87 and a bottle of stp octane boost, thats just to burn it out.
if it starts up again, should I let it idle and just burn off some of the 87?
Last edited by EcoTecDriver; Aug 2, 2010 at 04:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
putting 93 wont dilute it it'll slightly raise the octane and i'll be it it'll do a better job then that octane booster
if you're getting excessive knock it wont start
it also sounds like your barely cranking it .. hold it for a bit longer.. just flicking it SHOULD work however.. if it's something slightly wrong you might have to hold it a bit.. I know the first few times I started the car after i put my 60s in it took longer then usual to crank
I dont know man, My only thoughts are maybe the 6 pin to 8pin rewire for the TB is faulty
Im using the 2 bar map meant for the 2.4, but wired accordingly
and then I suspect my maf may have the low refence and ia1 swapped (I had them pulled to wire the 2.5 map, but choose not to and when I went back to put the 2 wires in the MAF they turn out to be both Tan so it was a 50-50 guess, but the scan tool read intake temps, So it may be right)
Im using the 2 bar map meant for the 2.4, but wired accordingly
and then I suspect my maf may have the low refence and ia1 swapped (I had them pulled to wire the 2.5 map, but choose not to and when I went back to put the 2 wires in the MAF they turn out to be both Tan so it was a 50-50 guess, but the scan tool read intake temps, So it may be right)
it has to be the throttle body, get this when I push down on the gas pedal a 1/2 down and then attempt to start, it starts, but when I dont it does not, the tb valve may be positioned incorrectly?
thank you
thank you
Last edited by EcoTecDriver; Aug 2, 2010 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
either that or it sounds like injectors arent scaled correctly which would cause the same issues


