Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Guess i should give an update, got the bottom end assembled and the head bolted on today. As the old saying goes, want something done right, you have to do it yourself.

Had the block machined by a local in town, was done next day. He honed it .0005 and cleaned up the deck for me.




Got some help from jeff as to where i should get oil for the turbo as the gen3 blocks dont have the gallerie plugs like the older blocks do.







Luckily the old line is still the right length, because i just made the damn thing.




Made my own thread chasers out of some stock bolts i had for the mains and headbolts





Pistons and rods in, rod caps being put on




Main housing on with gray rtv applied




Powerwashed and scrubbed the head with purple power





And the head bolted on





Little something extra, got my rpf1s dipped in acid

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

hey someone else that still uses Lubriplate 105. everyone seems to have moved to the sticky engine assembly lubes, most parts guys have no idea what this stuff is.

so is it just the 88mm bore gen 3 blocks that dont have the oil feed port? where is the oil feed on the ldk/lhu blocks?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Only reason i used that is because my brother gave it to me for free lol. The 2.0 blocks have the oil feed on the back of the block on the drivers side i believe.

Cobalt_noob

Excellent work Slowbalt2000! Hope this block works out for you, it looks great.

Will you have to run more oil in it because the turbo? How about the oil pump, is stock one suffice to circulate the additional route?

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

I used Sta-lube for the subaru. Never heard of that stuff

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

I prefer to use KY warming sensations in anticipation for the ******* I'm going to give it over the coming miles.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I usually dump in an extra half quart but really its not necessary. Pretty mugh everyone uses the stock oil pump, i have a low mile one im going to use.

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

i dont think anyone has redesigned out timing cover to have a high volume oil pump. only oil pump mod used to be the hardened gears, and i dont know if you can even get those anymore. i know id sure like a set for my next build.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

You could have stock gears heat treated. Theyre still around, call bates.

advise

iTrader: (3)

was it honed to .0005 (half thou) or .005 (5 thou)
half tho and that thing is gunna lock up on start up

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

My pistons are basically stock size so i just needed a small amount of clearance added. They are 3.4650 bore. So to answer your question, .0005".

royce777

iTrader: (29)

I prefer smuckers

Henry3959

I think you mean .005 (5 thousandths),
not 5 ten thousandths.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Nope i mean .0005". Ive typed it three times now lol. Piston to wall is a tight .005", diamond calls for .0045".

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

I think you mean .05

Henry3959

That's tight... I just looked up the specs and they call for 0.0004-0.0016

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Read my post again. I had it honed .0005" (half a thou) for a total PTW of .005" (five thou)

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I should delete your post

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

dont be gay

Henry3959

I was looking at this:was it honed to .0005 (half thou) or .005 (5 thou)
half tho and that thing is gunna lock up on start up.

He was assuming the same

To further add to my confusion, Mitchell shows this for the LE5

Henry3959

For what it's worth, I checked a second source....

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

he's not running stock pistons, he has diamond pistons and they call for 0.0045"

advise

iTrader: (3)

HE HAD .0005 removed from the bore
giving him a total of .005
which is in the recommend range of .004-.0055 for diamond pistons

Henry3959

Got it... I read it the same as you did at first... Do the diamond pistons rattle at start up over .004"

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Never noticed any noise at start up on mine