I just had my car dyno'd but i'm having trouble bringing it from the gallery to here can some one help. Anyway My numbers were with an AEM intake and they never sent me the stock results so with a tune and intake only H.P was 154.9 and torque was 152.3 And I still need to get the tcm done look in the gallery and if someone can transfer it to here it would help

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/fil..._21.4_Dyno.jpg

https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/fil...alt1stdyno.jpg

These them?

 

Is that 160 at the wheels? Not bad man!

 

When I get the rest of my few mods done I'm going to go back and have it re-run again I just wish that I had the dyno's when I let AEM use the car but now they won't even get back to me. I would of liked to know what it actually ran stock

 

Dyno Jet or Mustang?

I did 158/154 on a Mustang. The tune was worthless (well the Westers one was). Numerous visits tot eh track showed no improvement ANYWHERE in the 1/4.

 

Dynojet

 

hmmm..doesn't a dyno-jet post higher numbers then a Mustang? Odd that we are very, very close on different dynos

 

avro's yours states dyno-jet in your sig. So which is it?

 

your 5 speed and I'm auto what difference do you think that makes in drivetrain loss? also no exhaust just an intake I was hoping to have my exhaust when my appt came up

Intake
Tune
No Exhaust mods yet

 

geeze....what screw-up Yeah mine is a Dyno-Jet too Forgot and did not even notice my sig

 

Not bad the auto's are still hurting your numbers.

 

actually the auto has a lower gear ratio than the 5 speed SS 2.4

 

not bad.. you know something, this may sound crazy but i took my intake off and sold it.. mind you i have a tune, the car actuallly feels faster now that the stock intake is back on.. i want to get a dyno with the intake on and off.

 

It's hard enough to trust dyno numbers from the same dyno and the same car, let alone different brands of dynos, different locations, etc. So many factors effect the outcome (both internally in the dyno and externally, such as weather and altitude) that it is generally impossible to compare numbers from two different dynos. Here's a good article on most of these factors:

http://www.mainlineauto.com.au/produ...OWACCURATE.PDF

I was surprised at the different correction factors that can be applied. This alone will make comparisons particularly difficult unless all of the corrections were set up identically.

That said, some generalities: manuals usually have less parasitic loss (drive train frictional loss) than autos, but not always. Autos may produce better torque numbers than manuals, since an auto can be a better torque multiplier. Most of the difference between manuals and autos is the ability of a manual to launch at a higher stall (i.e., "drop the clutch") and the fact that most cars have more gears available in the manual than the auto (Mercedes not included in this with their 7-speed autos) making first gear usually lower in the manual than the auto.

 

your mixtures are way too high

 

oh, sorry i misread. i thought you said you had a tune.

 

Actually, Monday I'm Going back In because I wasn't happy with this anyway. Now that the company sent me a scan tool I found out that it is About 3 degrees of kr At 5300 and 7+ degrees at 6450 so hopefully I will see a difference which is running very lean. The red is where it was at at one point and the blue is where it was finished still 13.2 kind of lean thats why I'm going to go back

 

lean for a all motor car no not really. What gas do you run?

 

91 calif the car is going in to knock retard at 5300 by 3+ degrees and over 7 @6400

 

154.9 hp on a 2.4 liter?

I know the sticker said 171hp, and I know it would be lower than that, but i didn't know that much...

 

I believe fully stock w/auto is about 142ish to the wheels and manual 148 close I think

 

that number would seema bout right to me. 171 factor in 13% drivetrain loss.