Timing and boost both play a factor but timing is much simpler to adjust

 

And ignition timing will significantly impact your power level so you don't want to be in a situation where you have high boost but pull all of your ignition timing to do so. I was in a similar situation to chevygirl. With my 2.9 TVS on 91 octane (with octane booster which does help marginally) the most timing I could run was around 13 degrees advance. But I was very disappointed with that situation so I installed a water/methanol injection kit and now I can run full timing (23-24 degrees is the highest you go and still make power on our cars).

And to answer your question, no the option B setup will not really help you run cooler intake air temperatures as long as your circulating system has all of the air purged out. The option b just makes it really nice for filling and to have a little bit of excess coolant but it primarily facilitates in removing air bubbles from the system.

 

So let's get back to the real point, do you think that it will risk blowing my engine? Or is it okay because the internals are forged?

 

An m62 on an le5 isnt going to hurt the engine one bit. Tons of people have done it, including myself.

 

Will be fine unless you beat on it significantly. Or don't maintain it. I'm on year 2 with mine being supercharged. I'm about to add a 50 wet shot and then a tvs.

 

Interesting. For some reason I was looking at a lower octane acting like diesel.. in that, when the compression of the gas, which causes heat, ignites... and in gasoline cars, obviously you do not want that. So by timing (noob here) do you mean fuel timing or spark timing??

 

Fuel timing doesnt really matter on a gasser as long as it all makes it into the cylinder. Ignition timing is basically the same as injection timing in the diesel world.

 

Fuel timing doesn't really matter that much on a port injection. On a direct injection it makes a significant difference.

 

So are you still on 91 octane with your new set up? And thanks for that clarification... While we are on the topic of option B, do you have to have the dual pass set up in order to use it? i mean im kosher with the set up i got, just more curiousness.

Excellent! This is good to know!

 

Along with duration as well? or not so much duration, just the timing in direct injection..?

 

Still on 91 octane just with water/methanol injection at throttle body. Do not have to have dual pass to run option B but I would recommend doing the dual pass upgrade before option b as it will be more beneficial for cooling.

 

Dual pass is better than just option b

 

Duration is important for gas engines because the air to fuel ratio matters much more than on a diesel

 

So, alright... if I ran option B without the dualpass, at least until I can get it, will I drill a hole in to the intake manifold for the bleed line? And on the T fitting that is there now, do I just run the option B right to that??

Where would two heat exchangers go on our car anyway? Do you have to take out the AC condenser or somethin??

 

The bleed line goes on the top of the stock of the lsj h/e. And I have the stock lsj h/e, Ottp h/e, condenser, radiator and a transmission cooler all in the front. Fits fine.

 

Just to pick your mind a tid bit more, what did you do, just sandwich them altogether and fashion something to hold them all up?

I'm pretty sure ive just about exhausted my questioning for one thread, but it would be a huge help!!

Tranny cooler for an automatic correct?

Reason why you went OTTP vs. ZZP? ZZP claims are pretty stout...

 

It's a tight fit. I've broken 2 ac condensers. Stock h/e busted the first one and then the trans cooler busted the 2nd. Fixed that problem though. They are all spaced out now. And yes auto but they are all universal.

And I had the zzp stage 3 h/e. I hit a dip in the road and the weld cracked and it bent so replaced with Ottp. It's almost twice the thickness and is made so much better and stronger.

 

​​​​​​​curious to know what size trans cooler you are running, and if you still have the trans hooked up to the radiator. I have one i was going to use on a customers car but ended up using a bigger one. Was gonna toss it on my car since i might need it with the more power im making now lol

 

Started a separate thread.

 

Moved

 

Those parts look really nice! Basically the only thing youll need to do tune wise is reduce the timing in higher g/cyl rows to peak around 13 for a safe start on the high octane table. Then change your PE settings to command pe afr at 11.5 or so. The way i set up my PE enable is a low tps (around 30%) and a high map (something like 100 or 101), this ensures you will always enrich under boost conditions.

 

Thank you... A few weekends of work and gathering parts.
It would be nice to view some successful 2.4 SC HP Tuner files.

 

Not at all trying to thread jack, but i replaced valve guides with Supertech's bronze/mag and im going to attempt to ream them myself.... the only thing is, what are the OE specs on the valve guides???

I am also using Supertech valves as well... any of the machine shops around me i do not trust one bit. Anyone point me in the right direction as far as reaming????

 

The spec for valve guide bores on both the intake and exhaust is:

.2362"-.2367"

 

You are a gentleman and a scholar!

You have any recommends on reamers by any chance???