Best N/A
Best N/A
ok so I have some spending money and i am looking into getting a JBP mild create engine. But I am wondering what exhuast and intake i should go with? I am prob. going to go with a Vector tune when the time comes. any thoughts?
Parts
- JBP/Wiseco Forged Aluminum Piston Kit
(Desired Compression Ratios:
10.0:1, 9.5:1, 8.5:1 or 8.0:1)
(Desired Bore Sizes:
Standard Bore, 0.020", 0.040")
- Total Seal Gapless Piston Ring Kit
- Wiseco Thick Walled Piston Pins
- Wiseco Spirolox
- JBP Sportsman Connecting Rods w/ARP Rod Bolts
- GM Production Main Bearings
- GM Production Connecting Rod Bearings
- GM Production Balance Shaft Bearings
- GM Production Engine Gasket Set
- GM Production Conversion Set
- JBP Strengthened Crankshaft
Machining
- Full Block Prep.
(Wash, Degrease, Hot Tank, Deglaze, Over Boring (if required))
- Full Balance on Rotation Assembly
- Align Hone Main Journals
- Deck Block
- Chamfer Returns
- Bottom-End Assembly
- Bore/Hone w/JBP Deck Plate
- Final wash and dress
- Block tricks on oil galleries
- Greg Mohos; Signature Block
I am talking with them about the details but its cheaper then the Hahn Kit and you should be able to make near the power. should. but that is some of the questions i asked them so i will let you all know when i get an answer.
Parts
- JBP/Wiseco Forged Aluminum Piston Kit
(Desired Compression Ratios:
10.0:1, 9.5:1, 8.5:1 or 8.0:1)
(Desired Bore Sizes:
Standard Bore, 0.020", 0.040")
- Total Seal Gapless Piston Ring Kit
- Wiseco Thick Walled Piston Pins
- Wiseco Spirolox
- JBP Sportsman Connecting Rods w/ARP Rod Bolts
- GM Production Main Bearings
- GM Production Connecting Rod Bearings
- GM Production Balance Shaft Bearings
- GM Production Engine Gasket Set
- GM Production Conversion Set
- JBP Strengthened Crankshaft
Machining
- Full Block Prep.
(Wash, Degrease, Hot Tank, Deglaze, Over Boring (if required))
- Full Balance on Rotation Assembly
- Align Hone Main Journals
- Deck Block
- Chamfer Returns
- Bottom-End Assembly
- Bore/Hone w/JBP Deck Plate
- Final wash and dress
- Block tricks on oil galleries
- Greg Mohos; Signature Block
I am talking with them about the details but its cheaper then the Hahn Kit and you should be able to make near the power. should. but that is some of the questions i asked them so i will let you all know when i get an answer.
- JBP/Wiseco Forged Aluminum Piston Kit
(Desired Compression Ratios:
10.0:1, 9.5:1, 8.5:1 or 8.0:1)
(Desired Bore Sizes:
Standard Bore, 0.020", 0.040")
- Total Seal Gapless Piston Ring Kit
- Wiseco Thick Walled Piston Pins
- Wiseco Spirolox
- JBP Sportsman Connecting Rods w/ARP Rod Bolts
- GM Production Main Bearings
- GM Production Connecting Rod Bearings
- GM Production Balance Shaft Bearings
- GM Production Engine Gasket Set
- GM Production Conversion Set
- JBP Strengthened Crankshaft
Machining
- Full Block Prep.
(Wash, Degrease, Hot Tank, Deglaze, Over Boring (if required))
- Full Balance on Rotation Assembly
- Align Hone Main Journals
- Deck Block
- Chamfer Returns
- Bottom-End Assembly
- Bore/Hone w/JBP Deck Plate
- Final wash and dress
- Block tricks on oil galleries
- Greg Mohos; Signature Block
I am talking with them about the details but its cheaper then the Hahn Kit and you should be able to make near the power. should. but that is some of the questions i asked them so i will let you all know when i get an answer.
wheres the headwork & cams, wheres the high compression?
10.0:1 compression, bored .040'', balanced, honed and a P&P. I will talk to them about cams also. but there is power there.
i'm pretty sure 2.4's have 10.5 compression thats what ninja was referencing so you're looking at less compression with it opened up for more airflow.. that is build to be boosted
10.0:1 is what us 2.4's have stock (and I believe the 2.2's too) engine bored .040" will def. increase HP, and the rest will def. result in HP but if you're paying that much to get all that work done, they should throw in some cams and headwork too.
The LE5 is a larger 2.4 L (2384 cc) version of the Ecotec. Both the 88 mm (3.5 in) bore and 98 mm (3.9 in) stroke are larger, and Variable Valve Timing on the intake and exhaust improve low-end torque. Compression is 10.4:1. Power is 164-177 hp (123-132 kW) and torque is 159-170 ftˇlbf (215-230 Nˇm). The engine uses a reinforced "Gen II" block.
ok i was wrong.. but 10.4:1 is still higher then 10:1
the thing is if he's not going to boost it it's useless .. like cobalt$$ said, came it do head work and get full exhaust and call it a day... that'll get you to about 230 whp.. le5's can handle alot more then you'd expect.. and spend 600 bux on a new clutch lightened flywheel and you'll have a pretty nice setup
ok i was wrong.. but 10.4:1 is still higher then 10:1
the thing is if he's not going to boost it it's useless .. like cobalt$$ said, came it do head work and get full exhaust and call it a day... that'll get you to about 230 whp.. le5's can handle alot more then you'd expect.. and spend 600 bux on a new clutch lightened flywheel and you'll have a pretty nice setup
le5's are beasts, just that no one knows it
turns out I was horribly mistaken about our compression ratio, which only makes me wonder the same thing elec and ion do, why the hell do I want less compressions for a N/A build? I mean if you're gonna go F/I then kudos, but maybe ask them about the compression ratio thing? maybe there is something we're missing? (and I think they dont include the cams because the le5 cams they sell are like a grand or something like that so they're prolly completely separate, or maybe included in the wild package?
10:1 is stock 2.2 compression
if your looking for N/A power you should be looking to increase compression
sure that motor may be bullet proof for whatever you are looking to throw at it but its not going to give you any gains by itself.
If you are looking to go all motor you need like 11:1 - 12:1 compression (don't know how high you can go on pump gas), you need some headwork and a nice set of aggressive cams aside from your normal bolt ons...that is what is going to make you power in an N/A setup.
you do know that stock you have 10.4:1 compression right? 
10:1 is stock 2.2 compression
if your looking for N/A power you should be looking to increase compression
sure that motor may be bullet proof for whatever you are looking to throw at it but its not going to give you any gains by itself.
If you are looking to go all motor you need like 11:1 - 12:1 compression (don't know how high you can go on pump gas), you need some headwork and a nice set of aggressive cams aside from your normal bolt ons...that is what is going to make you power in an N/A setup.
10:1 is stock 2.2 compression
if your looking for N/A power you should be looking to increase compression
sure that motor may be bullet proof for whatever you are looking to throw at it but its not going to give you any gains by itself.
If you are looking to go all motor you need like 11:1 - 12:1 compression (don't know how high you can go on pump gas), you need some headwork and a nice set of aggressive cams aside from your normal bolt ons...that is what is going to make you power in an N/A setup.
thanks i didn't know the stock compression, i could confirm what they offer. but i may just stick with stage 2 or 3 heads from them then.
STAGE 2
Components
Full Race Port and Polish
Glass Bead
Knife Edged Intake Runners
Port Matched Intake
Port Matched Exhaust
JBP LSJ High-Po Valve Springs
Viton Valve seals
JBP 3 Angle Valve Job
JBP Stainless Steel Valves
JBP Titanium Retainers
JBP Titanium Locks
Stock Guides
GM Head Gasket
Resurfaced Mating Surface
All Assembly Included
I think it's a prebuilt F/I setup designed to run more/less boost to make more/less power safely. you could ask them about the N/A setup side of things tho with some high ass compression pistons
i wouldn't even bother dealing with the bottom end at all unless you are going all out...
i would even say you could get that work done cheaper somewhere locally but I went the route of buying an already assembled built head for my 2.2 so I cant' knock it.
Some headwork and a nice set of cams and tuned to 7.5K-8K and you should have a nice little N/A setup...
i would even say you could get that work done cheaper somewhere locally but I went the route of buying an already assembled built head for my 2.2 so I cant' knock it.
Some headwork and a nice set of cams and tuned to 7.5K-8K and you should have a nice little N/A setup...
i wouldn't even bother dealing with the bottom end at all unless you are going all out...
i would even say you could get that work done cheaper somewhere locally but I went the route of buying an already assembled built head for my 2.2 so I cant' knock it.
Some headwork and a nice set of cams and tuned to 7.5K-8K and you should have a nice little N/A setup...
i would even say you could get that work done cheaper somewhere locally but I went the route of buying an already assembled built head for my 2.2 so I cant' knock it.
Some headwork and a nice set of cams and tuned to 7.5K-8K and you should have a nice little N/A setup...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGx6hTEXTmc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Apss...eature=related
if yuo like that sound.. it should give decent gains.. and i'll be getting my catback on this weekend (if i don't i kill) so i can give you some clips.. and i'll be hitting the dyno in 2 weeks.. so i can get numbers.. however I don't have stock numbers...
gmpp.. really is still restrictive and it also leaves your stock DP in w hich is very restrictive..
My combo will be zzp header/ dp 1.75 primaries and a 3" dp with high flow cat with 2.5" bolt in flange with the tsudo catback
those vids are from a 2.4 ion with the pacesetter header , 3" zzp dp with high flow cat and tsudo catback
so mine will probably sound the same..
intake wise i know injen has some issues on the io with fitting correctly but idk about with the balt.. you'll be ok with going with the gmpp intake.. however you're not going to get
much gains out of it really because it's not a CAI so it wont be getting the coldest air possible, with an active scoop it'll help.. but i don't know if you're willing to do that..
also tink about porting you TB for a bit better throttle response and MAYBE 1-2 hp..


