wait isn't the e-ram that "1 psi electric blower" thing? if so, it is the dumbest thing ever. Think turbonator gone electric. the only thing that is gonna do is restrict airflow and if there is a construction error when it is built you will suck chunks into your motor and say goodbye to it. never buy **** like that it does NOT work.

 

An electric supercharger can't work all the time as it draws too many amps (120amps for my super e-ram). It takes amps to make hp and it takes hp to compress air. I wired a WOT switch under my gas pedal, much like a nitrous switch because the e-rams can only run for about 30sec. max. The small electric motors are overvolted and need a cool down period. How much ground do you think you can cover in 30 seconds at WOT? They even use them roadracing - you've got to brake for the corners, allowing the e-rams sufficient time to cool.

Do not confuse real, high-amp electric chargers with the e-bay crap. The regular e-ram ($300) draws 60amps, makes 1psi boost from a 1.2 hp electric motor, yielding a 5%hp increase across the entire rpm range, but only at WOT, which is when you need it. The super e-ram ($600) makes 9%hp increase by stacking 2 regular e-rams. The new ultra e-ram ($1,000), which debuted at SEMA and is still under development, generates 2.5lbs of boost on our small displacement engines (2lbs on v8s) using a new 3hp motor. None of these motors can run continously, nor would you want them to as they would deplete your battery rather quickly.

BTW the e-ram's turbine and motor are all metal construction and they have a screen installed on the engine side to prevent anything from getting sucked into the engine in the unlikely event that something might break.

I will concede that if you ran at WOT with the e-ram off, it might restrict airflow a little, but who drives that way? They flowbenched the static 4" dia. e-ram and it flows equivalent a 3.1" section of open pipe. So if you are using a cai over 3" in dia, you might be concerned about it's air flow restriction.

Just like nitrous, electric F/I is not for most people. Hey, if it's not for you, then don't buy it; but it's quality construction, well tested and they have great customer support. There are hundreds of e-rams in use since 1997 and they continuously make improvements and refinements - that's why they won so many awards at SEMA this year. A super e-ram equipped 350Z won 1st place at the the NOPI nationals this year in Atlanta. I wouldn't call that junk!

I toasted a cartridge on an exhaust driven turbocharger once (Rajay) due to lack of oil and did not have anything sucked into my engine. Both the exhaust turbine and the compressor wheel were chewed up a little due to the failed turbo bearings, but the engine survived unscathed. I think the same thing would happen if an e-ram failed, even with the safety screen removed. As you know, there's no safety screen on a regular turbo or SC.

If you want a more powerful electric supercharger, Thomas Knight makes both centrifical and roots type models yielding much higher boost levels. Their base model 350c ($1,695)has a 8hp motor delivering from 4-12lbs boost depending on voltage, but you still need plumbing, a FMU, a bypass flapper valve, extra battery(s), tuning, wiring, etc. costing you as much or more than a conventional turbo setup.

 

Ehh all in all it is very taxing on your electrical system which causes increased wear on all circuits mainly your alternator as it is not designed to keep up with such high amperage output you can argue all you like but when you have to replace you alternator at 45,000 miles or less
you will be asking what the hell went wrong .....answer-DONT USE ERAMS

Sushidog your a consumer and theres nothing wrong with being happy with your product
however personally i would strongly advise everyone to stay away from those type of products

You want F/I get a turbo or a supercharger.

END OF STORY

 

What you say is largely true. Any large electrical load on your charging system will shorten the life of your alternator, such as a high-powered stereo will. I think it would be a bad idea to do both e-ram and high-power stereo with a stock alternator. I notice that when my e-rams kick in the headlights and dash lights dim, so I plan on doing " the big 3" just like the stereo boys do.

There's no free lunch. Whenever you add hp it will reduce the longevity of your drivetrain. I'm quite sure that overall engine/drivetrain life will be greatly reduced with an extra 50-100hp whether it's from F/I, nitrous or even a wild n/a build. On your typical commuter/grocery getter, I think it would be reduced much more quickly if the power is on tap all the time, like a high-boost roots or screw type s/c compared to a centrifugal type s/c, or a late spooling turbo. Better yet a would be a power adder that's only used occasionally when at WOT like an electric s/c.

If after 45k miles I do have to replace my alternator as you suggest, it'll be much cheaper than replacing a holed piston from a lean shot of nitrous, or putting a new cartridge in my turbo. IMHO

 

I'm about to bolt my lsj blower and intake to a 2.4 bored .020 over and fully balanced with forged mahle 8.8 to 1 pistons, a race preped crank shaft, some EVO hks 272 grind inside a LSJ ported and polished head with ferrea valve springs and titanium locks a dyno tune via hp tuners. and a small shot of nitrous and the 2 pass intercooler end plate from GM oh yeah I have a full thermal R&D exhaust with a SMS long tube header and hightflow cat. WHo wants to take numbers on what I'm going to put down. oh yeah this is in my redline.

 

Post up when it's dyno'd. Inquiring minds want to know.

What are you using for fuel management?

This reminds me of Big Daddy's (Don Garlits) famous saying: "The only thing that goes faster than cubic inches is rectangular dollars."

 

MVP before you do the big switch, did you ever do a dyno with your existing mods? any info on the hp dyno would be greatly appriciated I'm doin my dyno tune on the 5th

 

Can't wait to see what your HP and Torque curves look like with the new cams. It would have been interesting to see before/after on that mod!

 

ill guess...







lower than mine come spring time lol

 

nope ive done 2 dynos on the car the first one was with a K&N and a 3inch exhaust and it made 224 WHP 218 FTlbs

second one was with stage II and it made 242 WHP and i cant remember the torqe then i wnets nuts with the mods got HP tuners and haven dynoed since but the interceptor read 298. i believe in reality the car was at about 260+ i will try and come here to keep you all informed I will be running the stock eaton blower from the LSJ for now but the whipple is coming. there will be a thread on the redline forums which is where im at most of the time. im shooting for 400 WHP and a nice flat and fat torque curve.

 

i hope you plan on stronger rods and pistons at least on top of those heads or your hopes are gonna be shot down.

 

bud i didnt just start modding vehicles last night I have custom forged eagle rods. and custom wiseco 8.8 :1 forged pistons Also I'm a michigan native so you know I speak the truth.

 

May I ask what in tarnations that is? "EVO hks 272 grind?"

 

HKS makes camshafts for the mistu evo they make a 262 272 and a 280 gring the 280 is the mosnter grind thats what Rice eater is using and he made wel over 400 WHP with those cams. I have a source who will put these grinds on a LSJ factory cam or a blank cam if you wish.


the numbers refere to the advertised duration of the cams.

 

God himself touched those cams.

In a week, someone else will be using them too.

 

BTW the cams are on thier way to the grinder and he said they would be done in about a week to a week and a half time from when he recieves them. its not to late you can still get the 280 grind. : D "COME ON YA KNOW YOU WANT EM" if you PM rice eater i think he has a sound clip of the 280 grind in his redline.

 

oh gotcha. so you're using camgrinds made for the evo, but on the 2.0, and it works well? thats pretty sweet man. I wonder who had the ***** to use their motor as the test mule for that first!

 

noooooooooooo! you brought this thread back up =(

 

Ok, here's a reason to beat a dead horse.

I hear that LewiSS got 124.6whp from his 2.4 auto bone stock. I got 142.2 from my 2.4 auto with full bolt-ons+tune. This is a difference of 17.6whp. True, this is on different dyno's, and dyno's vary by quite a bit, but it gives a rough idea of actual results of full bolt-ons.

Your results may vary depending on the specific bolt-ons, tune and how your particular engine responds to them. 5sp results will be a little higher due to less drivetrain loss.

Another way to estimate hp gains is 1/4 mile results with bolt-ons vs stock. If someone has any results on the same track with before and after mods, I think hp difference could be calculated a little more accurately using corrected 1/4 mile times. There are a few hp vs. 1/4 mile calculators on the web, such as: http://www.4lo.com/calc/dynocalc.htm and http://www.s-series.org/htm/calc/hpcalc.htm

These calculators are not very accurate predictors to get absolute hp numbers. However, they should be close when comparing 2 results from similar runs to get relative hp differences.

 

I guess there is only 1 reason to want to know what kind of power you are really running and thats for your own knowledge but it really doesnt matter IMO if you are under 200 most people tend not to brag too much =/

 

though theres differences in the flow pattern and design of the EVO head VS the LSJ head they are also very similar in alot of aspects. now as far as forced induction goes there is differences between the two when it comes to performance and cams but again theres alot of similar specs when it comes to a blower grind VS a turbo grind. sofar the EVO grind cams have prooven themselves in the LSJ when it comes to performance.

a gentleman by the name of bryan was the first one to use the HKS EVO grind in a LSJ engine. His name on the REDLINE FORUMS is Rice Eater He dynoed @ 425WHP but he was turning 8K RPMs with 10.5 :1 compression pistons and a tiny supercharger pulley among other mods. He was using the EVO HKS 280 Grind which is also known as the "Monster Grind" its an all out race cam. Subsiquently brian blew up his engine after id say 4 months of his new build. the cause of failure was lack of cleanliness there was Mud inside his engine according to him when assembling the engine from what i've gathered. Or maby he managed to suck some mississippi mud through his intake into his motor?????? I dunno for sure. He managed to snap the crankshaft in two spots the engine let go at about 7800 RPM's