_UnLiMiTeD_

Ok so apparently it's not a humidity thing so here's a new thread for people that haven seen the issue previously.

Quick backstory, when i first put on my K&N intake, i noticed heatsoak within 15 min of driving, it was solved when i took off the engine cover, never heatsoaked ever again.

Last week i went to the track, ran some good times, let it cool off for an hour, then ran my last pass of the night, was cooler out by then and i ran 3 mph slower then i usually did and was a half second slower.

Ever since that night, as soon as the car is at full operating temperature, it feels like it heatsoaks right away, from about 2k till 4k, once past that the car opens up again. At first i thought it was because the weather was gettin a bit warmer, but tonight, it was 9 degrees outside, and after 5 minutes of driving, it got up to normal temp and it started feeling like it was heatsoaking AGAIN and it NEVER goes away, its there until i park the car and let it sit and cool off again.

I tried unplugging the battery to reset it, checked the intake to make sure nothing was loose, checked all my fluids, everything looks fine.


So what would suddenly cause the car to do this? Bad sensor somewhere?

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

Damn man, i can't imagine a 2.4 getting heatsoaked bad enough to cause a large reduction in power. i do remember my ebay intake getting pretty hot.

Do you have a way to monitor your IATs?

_UnLiMiTeD_

unfortunately i do not. My local trifecta dealer may be able to data log for me.

I think it has to be a sensor, how can a car heatsoak in 9 degree weather cruising in 5th gear at 100km/hr? And it had been perfectly fine before going to the track.

Like i said, it start at about 2k rpm and goes till 4k, then its back to normal. You can feel like, its like 50% throttle from 2-4 then goes 100% after. Its the exact same symptoms as when it really was heatsoaking, now its something else causing this.

anybody got some ideas for me

Bump

If some people could just stop whoring the wiggers thread and help me out that would be great, thanks.

.......bump

thepest51

try cleaning your MAF sensor with some MAF sensor cleaner.
the k&n intake oil can sometimes build up on there and create problems

_UnLiMiTeD_

Will give that a try

stangetr

have the same problem but only when its low on fuel, try going on full tank and see if that helps, crazy i know but thats what happens to m e

Zdeuce4

iTrader: (1)

clogged cat?

StevoElSupremo

my freind had that SAME problem with his 2.4 and he had an oiled filter, so he put a dry mushroom filter on and the problem went away...

_UnLiMiTeD_

Heres the part for me that is weird. Why is it the car runs perfect for the first 10 minutes of driving? If it was a fuel thing. All those problems suggested should be there right from the beginning, not after the car is at full operating temp.

For the fuel, it does it whether its full or empty, the filter, i took apart the intake and cleaned the maf sensor and seen no signs of any oil in the tubing. And as for the cat, i have an LSJ Dp on it with less then 10k miles.

And like i said, the odd part is, if did happen to be those issues, it should be doing it right from the start.

Im going to try and set up a time to get a data log from my trifecta dealer, see if maybe its a sensor throwing everything off.



BTW, here is an added bit of info. The car started doing this after my last pass at the drag strip, i noticed the hose clamps on my intake were all completely loose, tightented them all back up, cleaned the maf, but didnt do any change. But it did start this on my last pass of the night.

Went from a 15.3 @ 91mph to a 16.0 @ 88mph

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

I think data logging is your only real choice at this point. Like you said.

Checking, IATs, fuel trims, Spark Advance and such will do you a lot of good.

Good luck. I'm sure you will get it figured out.

_UnLiMiTeD_

i got the codes checked today, 3 different engine codes

P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0520 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Malfunction


The P0011 certainly sounds like what could be causing the lagging issue

glen229

iTrader: (4)

Pe delay?

_UnLiMiTeD_

pe delay is normal from the factory so why would the engine code come up and say thats an issue?

glen229

iTrader: (4)

Just throwing it out there, but I'm almost positive I have that code shut off

rnjmur

A code P0010 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

Faulty oil control valve (OCV)
Open or short in the VVT/VCT circuit
Open or short in the OCV / solenoid valve
Damaged computer (PCM)


A P0011 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following:

Incorrect camshaft timing
Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system
Continuous oil flow to VCT piston chamber
Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)


Definately sounds like you are having a problem with something in the VVT system. Since you also got a code for P0520 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Malfunction, I would start by looking into the oil sensor related troubles. Oil pressure is what controls your VVT and it sounds like there is a good possiblity that the VVT malfunctioning is what is causing your "lag".

kingg5

iTrader: (1)

id love to know your definition of heatsoak..

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

also I read on a few forums that wrong oil viscosity and type can **** up the system and cause those codes. Also, really dirty oil.

Chuck

when you say 9 degree's are we talking Fahrenheit or Celsius.. big difference.. 9 degree (C) equals around 42 degree (F)... Still you should not be heatsoaked that quick... What are your coolant temps?
Sounds like a timing issue..