JBP Vortex Header??
JBP Vortex Header??
Will these work with the 2.4? Is it too large of a diameter, and/or won't fit?
Has anyone else done it on a 2.4?
Because I just saw a video, and it sounds ******* amazing.
Has anyone else done it on a 2.4?
Because I just saw a video, and it sounds ******* amazing.
Last edited by sick06cobalt; Aug 31, 2008 at 12:39 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Last edited by tambrico; Aug 31, 2008 at 12:44 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Yeah, I know, but the thing is that the LE5 on the Cobalt isn't listed as being supported on the website. Do you know of anyone who has installed this on a 2.4?
I really just want this for the sound (because it sounds amazing on the SS/SC), but will I still get that sound on an NA application?
I really just want this for the sound (because it sounds amazing on the SS/SC), but will I still get that sound on an NA application?
Yeah, I know, but the thing is that the LE5 on the Cobalt isn't listed as being supported on the website. Do you know of anyone who has installed this on a 2.4?
I really just want this for the sound (because it sounds amazing on the SS/SC), but will I still get that sound on an NA application?
I really just want this for the sound (because it sounds amazing on the SS/SC), but will I still get that sound on an NA application?
Thanks for the info, I sent a PM to JBP to see what they say. Are they good with PM's?
actually, this is the best flowing header on the market...
it would fit a 2.4 unless you have extra **** in the back behind the engine that the 2.0 doesn't have. you'd also have to lose the engine plastic.
it would fit a 2.4 unless you have extra **** in the back behind the engine that the 2.0 doesn't have. you'd also have to lose the engine plastic.
Yeah, it looks like there's quite a bit of room behind the engine. The only thing I'm wondering is what about it takes three hours to install? As opposed to a regular header which I hear usually takes 45 mins.
I bought a blemished header that required mods to the coolant crossover tube. Long story short I had it on and off a dozen times or so to take measurements and build a fixture for a new tube(nope it's still not finished I got sidelined with another project). You probably don't have to, but I dropped the front engine mounts to tip the engine forward and pulled the rocker/valve cover to make more room. One of the things that takes awhile is removing the studs in the collector and the head. With air tools it takes about 1 1/2-2 hours to pull everything, swap it all over, and put it back together. Hope that helps.
yeah, you've seen pictures of this thing right? it's a beast, and it's probably the tightest fit ever. i would recommend solid mounts along with this, but thats just IMO.
What would solid mounts do?
Yeah, I think TTR just came out with them. But I thought they were just for traction.
Last edited by tambrico; Sep 1, 2008 at 02:08 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
yes, ttr just came out with mounts for the auto guys.
mounts would keep the motor from moving too much, because this header is such a tight fit, if your stock mounts were too soft, the motor would move to much causing the header to bump into the firewall, and that would be bad.
mounts would keep the motor from moving too much, because this header is such a tight fit, if your stock mounts were too soft, the motor would move to much causing the header to bump into the firewall, and that would be bad.
yes, ttr just came out with mounts for the auto guys.
mounts would keep the motor from moving too much, because this header is such a tight fit, if your stock mounts were too soft, the motor would move to much causing the header to bump into the firewall, and that would be bad.
mounts would keep the motor from moving too much, because this header is such a tight fit, if your stock mounts were too soft, the motor would move to much causing the header to bump into the firewall, and that would be bad.



