2.4L LE5 Performance Tech 16 valve 171 hp EcoTec with 163 lb-ft of torque

JBP VVT LE5 Camshafts

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Old 11-03-2006, 10:47 PM
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Pretty cool. Any ss/sc owners in your area?
Old 11-03-2006, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon97Z
Pretty cool. Any ss/sc owners in your area?
Header/dp and a hp tune and that possible
Old 11-03-2006, 10:59 PM
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Mike if you want to come down to northern cali we can run em.
Old 11-03-2006, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Allshot
Mike if you want to come down to northern cali we can run em.
your to modded,but I bet ya I could give a stock ss/sc a good run eventually,what do you think Allshot?
Old 11-03-2006, 11:11 PM
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I think with the cams header downpipe and tune you should put up a good fight. I know I was in big worms 2.4 and he had the header downpipe exhaust and tune and his car felt like it hauled *****
Old 11-04-2006, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Allshot
...I know I was in big worms 2.4 and he had the header downpipe exhaust and tune and his car felt like it hauled *****
its all in the tune...

however, the 54 trim is on the way =]
Old 11-04-2006, 12:37 AM
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Great to hear it's fixed. I thought it had to do with the cam sensor or timing. I want to see numbers now.
Old 11-04-2006, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by bigworm
its all in the tune...

however, the 54 trim is on the way =]
And what does this 54 trim do???
Old 11-04-2006, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 2K5SS/SC?
Great to hear it's fixed. I thought it had to do with the cam sensor or timing. I want to see numbers now.
not all fixed,ended up taking it to a performance shop,my buddy had everything ass backwards
Old 11-04-2006, 01:08 AM
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that sucks, we're all glad to see things are moving forward and i cannot wait to hear that results from the cam swap. will be checking in all the time for the updates.
Old 11-04-2006, 03:44 AM
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Originally Posted by g5mike
not all fixed,ended up taking it to a performance shop,my buddy had everything ass backwards
Oh crap, sorry to hear that. I must have miss understood your last couple posts. It shouldn't be too hard to get the timing right. I'll say it sure was tedious getting it right, but it wasn't too difficult. Sounds like your buddy should lay off the tools for awhile though.
Old 11-04-2006, 07:40 AM
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SO he mixed up the intake and exhaust cams?

I can't think of anything else to put assbackwards.
Old 11-04-2006, 08:59 AM
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I think he means that the crank in relation to the cams is off. The cam gears and cams should be marked prior to removal. The problems with replacing the cams is you loose that mark, and if everything is not spot on with the new ones, all the valve timing will be off = very bad.
Old 11-04-2006, 09:08 AM
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want to hear results very soon. your exhaust note will be very aggressive.
Old 11-04-2006, 09:10 AM
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I think it's also misleading to think that it's easy just to swap out the cams because the way they sit on top of the cylinder head -- looks like a simple remove and reinstall. The timing chain is rather complicated with the balance shafts and "serpentine-like" routing -- I think it would be safer to pull the front cover off the engine to double check that the timing chain is lined up and timed properly when swapping out cams, IMO.
Old 11-04-2006, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Cobalter LS
I think it's also misleading to think that it's easy just to swap out the cams because the way they sit on top of the cylinder head -- looks like a simple remove and reinstall. The timing chain is rather complicated with the balance shafts and "serpentine-like" routing -- I think it would be safer to pull the front cover off the engine to double check that the timing chain is lined up and timed properly when swapping out cams, IMO.
Not only do you need to know what you are doing, but a TDC indicator that screws into the spark plug hole (I've used a screwdriver at times, but I'm not bragging about it) and a degree wheel are essential tools for doing a cam swap. Adjustable cam sprockets help too, if you're at "half a tooth" and must decide which way to go. How else are you going to degree in your cams to specs?

I'm sure you've heard of 2 identical engines coming off the assembly line with 2-3hp varience between them? This is most often the result of normal variations in cam timing from the factory.
Old 11-04-2006, 09:35 AM
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I would be more than concerned about bent valves at this point.

Also very concerned that any feedback following this fiasco should be taken with a grain of salt. There were no baseline dyno tests and HP "claims" are much higher than should be realistically expected.
Old 11-04-2006, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BennyHHR
I would be more than concerned about bent valves at this point.

Also very concerned that any feedback following this fiasco should be taken with a grain of salt. There were no baseline dyno tests and HP "claims" are much higher than should be realistically expected.
Good point.

G5mike, do you have any 1/4 or 1/8 mile times to compare against? Or, have you raced a friend that you just barely beat or that just barely beat you that you could race again so we can use it as a reference to compare performance gains?

Inquiring minds want to know.
Old 11-04-2006, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Cobalter LS
I think it's also misleading to think that it's easy just to swap out the cams because the way they sit on top of the cylinder head -- looks like a simple remove and reinstall. The timing chain is rather complicated with the balance shafts and "serpentine-like" routing -- I think it would be safer to pull the front cover off the engine to double check that the timing chain is lined up and timed properly when swapping out cams, IMO.
Exactly,marking the timing from the cam bolts dont cut it,know obviously through experience short cuts dont quite work
Old 11-04-2006, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by sushidog
Good point.

G5mike, do you have any 1/4 or 1/8 mile times to compare against? Or, have you raced a friend that you just barely beat or that just barely beat you that you could race again so we can use it as a reference to compare performance gains?

Inquiring minds want to know.
I had a few races but I still think taking a dyno result from a 2.4 with intake and exaust,then compare it to the dyno I will do after the cam install would be more accurate
Old 11-04-2006, 03:03 PM
  #146  
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Mike, thats terrible news. Have the shop perform a leak down test on cyl #1 with the camshafts rotated at TDC (not 60 deg b4) and ensure that both exhaust and int. cams are not actuating the valves. Hopefully, your going to be about 80% or higher... If not, then the head has to come off.

Timing on the ECOTEC engines is something thats very very sensitive. Even dealers screw this up... You really have to know what you're doing.
Old 11-04-2006, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JBP
Mike, thats terrible news. Have the shop perform a leak down test on cyl #1 with the camshafts rotated at TDC (not 60 deg b4) and ensure that both exhaust and int. cams are not actuating the valves. Hopefully, your going to be about 80% or higher... If not, then the head has to come off.

Timing on the ECOTEC engines is something thats very very sensitive. Even dealers screw this up... You really have to know what you're doing.
Update,just got off the phone and they are telling me the head has to come off,on monday now,this BS damn Im having bad luck
Old 11-04-2006, 03:16 PM
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Wow that really suck
Old 11-04-2006, 03:16 PM
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that suxs
Old 11-04-2006, 03:41 PM
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To take the head off and such,Im waiting on a call back to see how much labour time this will be


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