str99

I was running 4 codes when i got this car. The codes are:

P0013 Exhaust Camshaft Position (CMP) Actuator Solenoid Control Circuit
P0036 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage

So I decided to work from the top, since the RPM's were boggling and the car wouldnt start if I wasn't giving it some gas, I figured it had to be the exhaust solenoid. I changed that, and the problem went away. Cleared the codes, and bam it was good, running smoothly, running at about 213 F. Sooner or later, check engine came on. Thinking it'd only be the other 3 codes, but no, it was once again the solenoid. Any help?

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Did you change the oil recently? I've heard of bad oil giving the solenoid issues. What is the resistance across the leads of both of the solenoids?

213 seems pretty warm.

str99

Oh snap, just reminded me of another thing I gotta do on the cobalt. Gotta change oil on it. And if you can dumb down the last sentence? Lol I'm not really a mechanic :P

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Get your ohmmeter. If you don't have one, buy a multimeter. I'd suggest the ~$45 Klein from home depot. It's very useful for fixing electrical things, and mine is just as accurate as the Fluke meter at work in our test lab. If you don't care and just want to do this and nothing else ever, the $5 one at harbor freight will work (just don't trust any voltage or amperage numbers). Set the multimeter to measure 2ohm-scale resistance. Remove the harness connection on the exhaust solenoid. Touch one meter lead to one of the metal prongs on the solenoid, the other lead to the other prong. See what the resistance is. IIRC, it should be no more than 12ohm but you should verify this number via google. If it's above that, then you know the solenoid is bad. Repeat for intake if desired.

Changing the oil may make your problem of the solenoid go away. Might want to clean out the solenoid too.