cobalt_sport08

iTrader: (1)

Ok got most of my parts now and the few remain and I have some questions..

Every build I see for a 2.4 I see people say I need a custom idler pulley with mounting bracket... Ok where can I find it?? Why do I even need it?

And ZZP says alternator spacer and idler stand with idler pulley...
What's are these??

Tunning: should I bite the bullet and get a tune from trifecta ($400 :/ ) or how complicated would it be to swap the lsj computer to mine and tune it? Or is that even possible? Thanks


Any other tips for me please tell me thanks!!

cobalt_sport08

iTrader: (1)

And what spark plugs are y'all using and where can I get an extended radiator hose.

Jacob4ta

iTrader: (1)

You can use the LSJ idler pulley, tensioner pulley and alternator bracket. You can use either your LE5 alt or LSJ alter, that doesn't matter. Hit up Mongorat he always has these items and hardware for a good price.

You will not be able to use the LSJ Ecu on your car, they are not compatible. If it's going to cost $400 for Trifecta, I'd say shop around a bit more before paying for anything.

For plugs, I recommend to run copper 2 steps colder NGK LFR6A-11. These are the plugs I run on my car.

As for the radiator hose, ZZP sells them for like $30 brand new. CED also sells these hoses.

andrewcarr1993

iTrader: (5)

Trifecta is only $250 no clue where you're getting that price.

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

you havent done enough research if you are asking these questions...

the plugs are LFR6A-11
gap em a .032-.035

**** trifecta
HPT is what you need

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I really dont think he'll need two steps colder. maybe one, but stock would probably work

cobalt_sport08

iTrader: (1)

Ok good I can get that from my buddy with an older balt he's parting out.. And the only thing I found on zzp was the stock radiator hose but not the extended I'll check out CED.

Thanks!

Yeah I was checking out there page last night and saw there update price

And I've only been able to find 1 thread regarding the idler pulley

Are the two steps bad??

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

my thread has a little info on the accessories, becks how to has info on it, hunterkillr has info, ect...theres a lot out there

Use the LFR6A-11 gapped .032-.035



You dont need an extended rad hose; there isn't even an extended rad hose or anything...the OEM LSJ rad hose works

cobalt_sport08

iTrader: (1)

oh I got Becks hot linked ha ill look for the others now and then ok good I got the stock hose already

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

Ive always bought iridiums...they last longer so you dont have to change more often.

NGK 6509

Find someone to do HPT tuning.

Jacob4ta

iTrader: (1)

For like $3 each, after 10-15k miles 4 copper plugs is pretty cheap. Copper is the best conductor when it comes to plug and makes the best spark for the best burn.

I usually order my plugs through amazon and change them after 2-3 oil changes. I change at 50%.

cobalt_sport08

iTrader: (1)

Okay this is driving me batshit crazy. I don't understand how to do the belt set up for my 2.4, I found some diagrams I still don't understand what the idler pulley is still...

From what I can find online the idler pulley is this..


And for my 2.4 this is the belt routing..


and im sure ppl know this already but the lsj look like..


So my question is how does the idler get into the postion that its in for the 2.4 set up...

thanks

redcobalt07

iTrader: (18)

gmpartsdirect.com has a lot of the oem part you'll need

cobalt_sport08

iTrader: (1)

after finding zzp's instructions I think I found what I need.... there calling it the alt spacer/ idler



and it looks to be in the spot it needs to be to match the belt route

cobalt_sport08

iTrader: (1)

does anyone have a pic of them using the autoworx one..

2.2-2.4L Supercharger Idler - $74.99 : Rebel Auto Worxs.ca

Jacob4ta

iTrader: (1)

Here's mine when I had it installed.



I don't use it anymore because I bought the lsj tensioner, idler and alternator bracket. I do still have it laying in a box of parts though!

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

jacob so you used the 2.4 alternator/pulley, and the rebel autoworx tensioner system?

Jacob4ta

iTrader: (1)

Correct. I didn't have to remove any of my stock belt parts. There is a black engine hoist tab on the passenger side of the block where this idler mounts. You just remove the black hoist bracket, use the 2 bolts for the new idler pulley, and route your belt.

However, the bottom bolt that mounts the idler bracket will have to have the head flange ground off. If not, it will contact the belt. You'll see what I'm talking about if you choose to use that bracket.

cobalt_sport08

iTrader: (1)

Jacob that belt set up looks almost like the stock LSJ.... and you said your not using is anymore?? so did you just use all the stock lsj parts??
and if I can just use the lsj belt parts how in the hell do I get the tensioner off whenits under the motor mount -___- and same for installing when it comes time on mine

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

Use the LSJ idler pulley/bracket
Use LSJ tensioner,bracket, alternator bracket.
Use LSJ belt
Route LSJ belt like OEM

its simple **** bolts right on!

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...through-80620/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...cobalt-127891/

and a shitload of pictures of my build
http://s1022.photobucket.com/user/Ve...?sort=3&page=1

cobalt_sport08

iTrader: (1)

^^^ good info thanks.

Which wideband would yall recommend on buying I was looking at gloshifts but it comes with the data logging stuff... Dont I just need the wideband sensor and guage??

Jacob4ta

iTrader: (1)

I think just about any wideband will work. I've got an AEM wb that I've had since I scd my car.

cobalt_sport08

iTrader: (1)

Gotcha.. but honestly I don't see why I need it if im not tunning my car.. ya know??

Jacob4ta

iTrader: (1)

Even though you're not tuning your car, it's nice to know what its actually doing. Depending on where you're located, weather can play a major roll to what your WOT afr is. You could be just counting wot runs, then boom.

If you get tuned in good, and you're happy then run without it. It's just added insurance to me.

cobalt_sport08

iTrader: (1)

Does every wideband require a weld in bung?