2.4L LE5 Performance Tech 16 valve 171 hp EcoTec with 163 lb-ft of torque

thinking of buyin nitrous

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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 02:02 PM
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Dragonsfire12345's Avatar
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thinking of buyin nitrous

I'm thinking about buying a nitrous kit for my car.

What kit should I get, and do I need to buy a purge kit on its own? I want the purge to come out of the grill kinda like a bull.

What else do I need? new spark plugs? anything?

Where can I buy the nitrous kit, and purge kit? Some what the cheapest place

thank you in advance for yalls responses
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 02:06 PM
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From: Sasebo Japan
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...t=81814&page=3

look at this before u get it
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 03:29 PM
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damn that suxs
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 04:21 PM
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lol thats nitrous
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 11:55 AM
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what caused it to go all pompei like that?
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Raven SS
lol thats nitrous
Nitrous oxide isn't flammable, although it is an accelerant. Something else caused the fire to start. Maybe a leak to the fuel solenoid? Was it a wet kit?
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 01:52 PM
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I think he had a nitrous backfire and the fireball likely lit something on fire...

I wouldn't say "thats nitrous" but more like bad luck as that would be the 2nd time hes experienced a backfire. Just a faulty setup...
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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 03:13 PM
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OK. That makes more sense.

A backfire through the intake is caused by a lean condition, which would have been caused by using the nitrous, but not the nitrous itself.

Make sense?

That's why I prefer a wet kit. Less chance of that happening.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 02:18 PM
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he had a wet kit

but when you experience a nitrous backfire and the fuel is ignited sometimes you get that cool fireball...which can of course catch stuff on fire.

there was a vid on here before with a Vette and the same thing happened to him.



on another note, I was bored at work and found this as a good read on nitrous
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ely/index.html

Last edited by IonNinja; Nov 2, 2007 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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That is a good read. AAMOF, it explains what happened

Now we know what NOT to do.


Unless you are using a progressive system, nitrous oxide may only be used under full-throttle conditions at sufficient engine speeds, 2500 rpm being the suggested minimum. Failure to comply with this rule can result in a very damaging situation, the most awesome being the infamous nitrous backfire. This event can easily blow apart your intake system, cause cosmetic damage, and start a fire. To prevent this, install a full-throttle activation switch. This switch needs to be mounted so that some part of the throttle body mechanism contacts it at full throttle, allowing the system to operate. It's also a good idea to have an rpm-activated switch so that the system can't operate below a certain engine speed, 2500 being the minimum.

It's good practice to rid the nitrous lines of vapor, in order to avoid a rich condition and hesitation upon system activation. However, many people do this by simultaneously whacking the throttle and hitting the nitrous while in neutral. Occasionally this results in the aforementioned violent intake explosion. It is therefore in your best interest to have a purge solenoid kit, which at the simple press of a button vents nitrous into the atmosphere. The purge line should be mounted where visible, so that one can watch for when the plume of gas blows thick and stable, indicating that liquid has reached the solenoids and the system is ready to go.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 06:01 PM
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I was thinking about going nitrous but I have seen one guy with a 2.2 on .net that blew up his intake and other stuff, theres a vid somewhere. He ran a window switch but it failed and KA-BOOOM!
The ion on the link was at recommended rpm (65 mph) hit the nos and blew his sh*t up. My advice; find another way for power. I am leaning toward an eaton setup myself.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Raven SS
lol thanks Raven.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by IonFeright
lol thanks Raven.
Holy ****, rofl.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 11:08 AM
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From: STL
you dont have to run a 75 shot or any thing big, you can run a 25 shot or something and be pretty safe, but the main concern is properly installing it, im sure alot of problems can be avoided by properly installing the system and maintaing it, inspecting, testing.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by BlueSS-supercharged
you dont have to run a 75 shot or any thing big, you can run a 25 shot or something and be pretty safe, but the main concern is properly installing it, im sure alot of problems can be avoided by properly installing the system and maintaing it, inspecting, testing.
The smallest jets most kits suppy is for a 50-65 shot. I think a 50 shot is the smallest you should spray.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 11:29 AM
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you can spray from 20 up to 150, i have a 25 on mine right now. doesnt do much in power but it cools my supercharger big time, which drops the heat factor and frees up more power

nitrious is completly safe if hooked up right, a purge kit i would recommend aswell as a bottle warmer, and a psi guage. this way you can get the best pressure in your system (900 psi) to give you the best hit.

as for shots anything under a 35 is usually safe as a dry before the maf. the little change it can correct for. 50 dry you can do with stage 3 pcm on the ss/sc. otherwise if you go with 50 or 75 go wet. alot more reliable

just be smart about it and your car will be fine. have a throttle switch with a arm switch so the switch has to be on AND the throttle has to be to the floor. a window rpm switch is good to so it will only fire between 3000-7000 , i wouldnt shoot anything lower then 3000 and within 500 of redline, personally i have mine set to 3200 and 6600 to be on the safe side.

just read alot and youll be fine

also spark plugs should be fine, just make sure they are in good cond. personally i like dynotune nitrous. very good products and excellent price

Last edited by silentd; Nov 6, 2007 at 11:29 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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