sweet! I just found one and they can ship it to me for $450 to my door. 67,000 miles on it.

I'm having a hard time getting a throw out bearing though. He told me to buy it at advanced/auto zone or other parts stores. Can you help me out?

 

that's probably where you would have to get one or a dealership.

before you go too crazy, i'd suggest waiting until i confirm that the LSJ clutch assembly will work with the F23. I wouldn't want you to invest in the transmission if it doesn't end up working.

 

Sounds good, I'll wait. PLEASE let me know asap that it works.

 

^^ i have an f23 from an ION. with about 20k on it if you really want the trans we could probably work out something a little cheaper than 450

 

if hes lookin to rev this motor up to 9500 wouldn't he need to be running standalone anyway?

 

indeed, factory Jbody ecus and the cobalt ecu has an absolute limit of 8192RPM. the only difference is none of the jbody tables actually go up that high... my spark tables stop at 6400rpm and my fuel tables stop at 7000.

I'm currently looking into the Spectre EMS since it can run our ignition system with only a crank-angle signal. Most other stand-alones need a cam signal too, and the jbody doesn't have that since its 'compression sense' wasted spark ignition.

 

any updates yet?

 

So you want to bolt up the F23 Getrag to your SS Supercharged? I had a 01 Z24 with the GM Supercharger kit and a **** load of bolt ons and I went through syncros like crazy with only 213 whp and 206trq. It just couldn't handle the power.

 

If that becomes a problem, it isn't that difficult to upgrade syncros. There are people on here that destroy the f35 pretty easily, that doesn't mean that it's a weak trans though. Every once in a while, people get bad apples.

the gearing will be worth it though. I aim to prove it.

 

True but I never replaced the syncos. A friends family owns a salvage yard and I basiclly swapped in a new trans when I had the problem. Original trans had 18k when 2nd gear synco went, Trans 2 had 8k when it started to leak and 1st gear syncro went out. Then the last trans had almost no miles and the gears started to grind. At that point I was trading her in for the SS anyway. Your problly thinkin man this guy beat the **** out of that car, I really did not tho I'm just sharing my experince with the F23.

 

no offence, but im going to say driver error there. one tranny can have a problem, if the same thing happens 2 or more times its something around it causing the problem, unless its a widly known issue. syncros wont wear out from too much power, as anytime the syncro is being aplied is during a gear change, when you are (or are supposed to be) on the clutch and off the throttle.

 

x2


we aren't trying to **** you off man, but synchros get destroyed from driver error. Or just racing. Powershifting will kill them quick.

 

what about a slipping clutch? can that kill syncros?

 

I guess, synchros get killed by missing gears and grinding them. If your clutch is slipping and you keep grinding gears, then yea, I would think your synchros would start to go bad unless you get a new clutch pretty quick.

 

clutch slippage wont affect syncros, as the only time syncros are being used is during a gearchange, and only the syncro of the gear you are going into. syncros get damaged from power shifting, speed shifting, shifting without the clutch, when your clutch isnt fully releasing (hydralic problems or colapsed pressure plate), or just plain having a lazy clutch foot.

 

Ok well out of the 4 different 5 and 6 speed cars I've owned the only one I ever had any problems with was the cav.

 

not saying its deffinitly driver error, however in my line of work (im a transmission tech) 90% of the time when we see a car repeatedly wearing out syncros, or low mialage burning syncros up is caused by driver error.

as said, it can be other things. i know people had issues with the bulley 6 puck clutches causing grinding during fast shifts, turns out the disk was too heavy and the inertia from the disk was cauing the syncros to be ineffective. weak hydralics also can cause it, so can incorrect oil in the tranny.

the only reason im being persistant on this is the f23 is not known for syncro problems. the hahn sunfire has 200+ dragstrip runs on it at 550hp on a stock f23 and its still lasting fine, and its even daily driven. i know a bunch of people with these trannys, from stock 2.2l ohv to 400hp turbo ecotecs. there are literally 100s of thousands of these trannys out there and ive never heard of 2nd gear failures being common. the biggest issue they had was the early years had diff bearing problems.

 

the only issues I know of with the F23 is differential explosions and the tips of the shift forks being damaged.

I've damaged the 1-2 shift fork missing a shift into second gear and grinded very VERY badly.

I've yet to explode a differential, but even those from what I can remember are rare.

the F23 is a stout transmission. With a quaiffe LSD upgrade, it should handle a lot of power.

I've shifted mine at 8000rpm on more than one occassion and it can tolerate the rpm as well.


Does anybody know if there are an an even number of gear dogs and splines in the F23?

 

no clue, thinking of building a "crash box"???

 

something the old timers used to do with chrysler transmissions.. shave off every other tooth on the dogs and sliders so you retain strength but make missing shifts almost an impossibility.. basically gives them a larger 'window' to mesh.

in other news... UPDATE:

I measured a clutch surface for a 2.2 and the 2.0.. from the backside of the flywheel to the top of the pressure plate springs... the cobalt is about 1/4" shorter than the jbody. Meaning that if you were to use a Jbody transmission, you'd have to shim the clutch actuator assembly forward by 1/4" or so. (the exact measurement I haven't taken just yet). It still works out very very well for a jbody, a bit more of a pain for a cobalt, but all in all it seems very doable to run an F23 on the LSJ.

Can anyone PLEASE get me a picture of the F35's clutch actuator??

 

where is the clutch actuator and I may be able to get it?

 

also to note, with a crash box you do not use the clutch when shifting, you just pull. even dusting the clutch can cause problems. my dad has built a few of these out of the old chrysler a-833, its a lot of work but you get a stick car with the shifting like an automatic. and to anybody thinking this is the greatest mod even for a standard, keep in mind that cutting the teeth off the slider syncro and gear creates slop, and on and off the throttle will feel like broken engine mounts as it creates a lot of slop in the tranny.

 

you can only get to it by removing the transmission.

on a jbody it looks like this:

 

I just want an f23 trans swap, no slushiness for me.

 

I didn't know that about the slop in the gears... makes sense. Something that may change my mind about doing that modification.