All with Sleeve work done...chime in
Well I have to put new sleeves in and wondering what everyone's experience was. I just want to know:
Sleeve type (ie. Darton 100-500)
Sleeve cost
Installation cost
other work done (ie hottank, honing, boring, rebuilding)
Mine is going to be :
Darton 100-500
$675 Sleeve cost
$600 labor
HotTank & Honing
Sleeve type (ie. Darton 100-500)
Sleeve cost
Installation cost
other work done (ie hottank, honing, boring, rebuilding)
Mine is going to be :
Darton 100-500
$675 Sleeve cost
$600 labor
HotTank & Honing
Dude Why do you need new sleaves? I have done a bunch at work, really easy there is a puller installer tool and then a cutter to machine down the top. You can easily do it in the car once the head is off it only takes about an hour. These were factory sleaves, I don't know about the darton ones.
That's what I'm trying to get at. Darton ones ire suppose to be much stronger. I e-mailed Darton and that is the quote that they gave me. Thay also said that they would also have to do some R&D before thety can install them. They make the kits for the 2.2. I know, I know I tried to tell them but, they want to make sure the casting is the same.
the stockers are good for a while i think i think they shoudl be good for 600 hp, but dont quote me, when do they change in the ecotec building, i think they change blocks before they change sleeves,
so IMO, and what i did was, stick with a stocker, i got gipped on labour from the dealer, they charged me 400 to change a sleeve, took the ******* 3.5 hours
so IMO, and what i did was, stick with a stocker, i got gipped on labour from the dealer, they charged me 400 to change a sleeve, took the ******* 3.5 hours
the stockers are good for a while i think i think they shoudl be good for 600 hp, but dont quote me, when do they change in the ecotec building, i think they change blocks before they change sleeves,
so IMO, and what i did was, stick with a stocker, i got gipped on labour from the dealer, they charged me 400 to change a sleeve, took the ******* 3.5 hours
so IMO, and what i did was, stick with a stocker, i got gipped on labour from the dealer, they charged me 400 to change a sleeve, took the ******* 3.5 hours
And M88 I can't sell the stuff I need it so I can wrap the tach.
a friend of mine blew is number 4 and 1 ringlands and was thinking about getting sleeves done. The cost and labor ended up being so much he decided to go with a new GM race block instead with all the goodies....currently under construction.
I had a 1969 Pontiac 400 block bored 200 over and all 8 cylinders sleeved then the sleeves bored to except 455 pistons so when it was finished it displaced 427 cubic inches or 7.0 liters for those who don't know CI. The engine was bullet proof and dynoed to over 600 hp with almost 700 ft of torque. The redline was 10,000 rpm but it never saw much past 9000 cause of the cams power band ended at 9100.
Sleeves aren't bad at all from my experences with them. Hell all the top fuel dragsters run them so they can't be half bad.
Sleeves aren't bad at all from my experences with them. Hell all the top fuel dragsters run them so they can't be half bad.
so jackalope do you know off hand how much the LSJ's sleeves could be bored out, I wanna do pistons and rods, and I want to pick up a little more displacement.
I havent heard of anything like a stroker kit for our cars, so I was assuming the good old fashioned bore it out method.
I havent heard of anything like a stroker kit for our cars, so I was assuming the good old fashioned bore it out method.
If you want to stroke it, use a 2.2 rotating assembly. There are some things that will need to be worked out though. One is the reluctor ring on the crank, and another is the flywheel bolt pattern. Then you can also bore it out about .5mm over.
It can be done, just won't be a weekend job.
It can be done, just won't be a weekend job.


