well i was talking to guy at arrow precision, and he told me (just a roundabout figure) that for 4 forged steel rods it would cost roughly 240GBP...if i converted that right it comes out close to 500USD. He also told me that if more rods were to be ordered that price would go down significantly.

Now im thinking we might be able to get a group buy together in the near future if there is enough interest. Post up and tell if your interested and ill keep updating the list as it goes. If theres enough interest ill talk to him and see what i can do. Im not going to add a poll because atual names would mean more that just someone saying yea id be interested.

(mods i am in no way trying to sell his product, just trying to get a good rod company to become a supporting vendor)

 

Forged is the way the metal is formed, and steel is the type of metal used. Its forged steel, or cast iron, or billet steel.

 

ah thanks for clarifying that...i never understood that

 

so the way the site formatted the title of this thread made it sound REALLY GAY... "anyone interested in connecting rods..." sorry had to throw it out there

 

how is that gay? its a forum for a tuner car...which if u see connecting rod...u would suspect its a connecting rod for ur car...

 

quit posting stupid ****....

 

Okay. What rod are you getting built?

2.2, 2.4, 2.0, long rod 2.2? 2.0 crank in 2.2 conversion?

Details....

 

honestly i have no clue...i was hoping someone could give me pointers on this but no one has...i don't know much about engine internals...just how to tear them down and rebuild them to a point

its a standard 2.4 motor so im guessing just an exact stock replacement

i guess noone has any interest?

 

I believe the rods are all the same arent they. i know the rods for the 2.2 and 2.0 are the same, you just need to make sure the pin position is for the right engine. If you use 2.0 pistons you gotta use 2.0 rods, but it wont change the displacement if you put them on the 2.2 crank.

 

Everything you posted here is incorrect.

 

Heres what the build book says:

The 2.0L LSJ and LNF ECOTEC engines have forged
steel rods similar to Small Block Chevy “Pink Rod.” The
forged steel rods are made of high quality material and
have a cap screw, 23 mm small end, and a full floating
bronze bushing. These rods are available through GM
service parts. These rods require an aftermarket piston set
to work with the stock 2.2L crankshaft.

Its been awhile since i've read it but i knew you could use the LSJ rods.... I mixed the bore and stroke up in my head, they all have a 86mm bore...

 

2.2 rods also have a 1mm smaller small end, so they are in no way like the 2.0 rods.

Get some nice forged billet 2.0 rods priced... something to work with the stock stroke crank and stock height pistons, basically a drop-in replacement.

The only problem with that is the crank isn't much stronger than the rods in the 2.0, so serious rods would need a stronger crank... just thinking out loud here.

 

i not going with anything too serious...just a build to handle between350-400 in its final stages....can i just go with a stock 2.4 drop in replacement piston/rod?

 

All the displacements use different rods.

If youve got a 2.4L your two basic options are 1) a drop in forged replacement. 2)a longer than stock rod, this would improve the engines operating characteristics at higher rpm levels but would REQUIRE custom pistons(as opposed to just forged 2.4 replacements) If youre getting bespoke pistons anyway, I would recommend a longer than stock rod, there is no dowside other than the requirement for pistons, which would mean your group buy would be less desirable. If its just for you i would tell Arrow you want a longer than stock rod, ask them how long they recommend for street durability(piston company involved in this too) also be sure to ask Arrow if they have a supplier that they prefer or perhaps work hand-in-hand with when it comes to pistons.

 

seems like a good idea...can you elaborate more on this longer than stock rod and its engines effects? or is that all you can really say

 

So let me get this straight.... There is no stronger aftermarket rods or crank yet for the ss/sc (or any cobalt for that matter)?

 

Well without going incredibly in depth or just being an ass and telling you to search on your own for answers the basic benefits of rod length are related to piston side loads and wear on the cylinder and piston, piston dwell(how long it spends at TDC and BDC), how mouch torque the engine creates from single firing event, scavenging usefulness and on and on... Essentially a longer rod reduces friction, and wear on the cylinder walls and piston because there is less force exerted on it on its way UP the cylinder due to the angle created between the rod/crank throw. Engines with longer rods can take better advantage of the engines natural scavenging affects because the piston spends more time at TDC. A longer rod can transmit more torque to the crankshaft again because the extra length allows it to maintain proper angles for power delivery longer through the cranks stroke(this is essentially the opposite side of the less friction on the way up phenomenon, more power on the way down...pretty cool eh?) A longer rod also slows downs the pistons acceleration(the forces the piston feels, nothing to do with engine speed) and therefore reduces the forces exerted on the rod and main bearings which is good stuff. The key point of the longer rods reduced piston acceleration is that the amount that you reduce piston acceleration by, DIRECTLY correlates to the maximum rpm the engine can tolerate.

(this is a purely hypothetical scenario)
So lets say with a stock 143.7mm long rod that the maximum safe rpm (for the BOTTOM end) of the engine is 8500rpm. If you lengthen the rod to the same spec as the race rods commonly used, approx 149.5mm and it reduces piston acceleration by 2% you would have just raised the safe rpm for the bottom end to 8670. Not too shabby for a $500 mod especially since you also get all the other benefits and the ability to handle more power.

Too much info, not enough, just right??




No, there are pistons and rods available for the 2.0 and the 2.2 from several sources as a shelved item, to myu knowledge noone is currently making a "stock replacement" crank for any engine, and the LE5, which is what Mike has, has the least support of all. Hence his search for custom parts.

 

Who makes the upgraded rods? Been searching here and other forums and I have had no luck

 

Crower is the only company and they want $800 or something retarded for them.

 

Alright. Thanks. Maybe if other companies started making them, prices would come down. Right now it looks like crower rules the market when it comes to rods for the cobalt so they can charge out the ass for them. Thanks for the help man..

 

just right...that answers my questions ...thank you....basically as you said i get that the main advantage is to reduce rod stress and increase rpm capabilities. That would seem to be good for anyone that plans to push the engine past stock rpm capabilities, which as of now i dont want to. I would also be safe with a direct forged stock spec drop in right? thats what i mainly want to do. I hear so much talk of people saying that it cant be done with high compression, but if its done right i dont see why not. of course ill need new sleeves, which i have to find. thanks for the help maven

you could pick up a set of forged steel ones off of arrow precision for 500usd. not sure how theyd work with other pistons but thats a damn good price

 

We did read your post. All I was asking was, if there was any companies already making rods for the cobalt as I been searching and trying to do research on product available for it. All he was doing was simply answering my question.

Free bump for you and anyone looking for a good price on some rods.

 

my post came out somewhat wrong now that i read it...haha i was basically just saying that arrow is probably the best bet for price

 

Absolutley, the ECO is a really good design from square one, so there is no problem at all dropping a higher quality, but original dimension rod.


Hihg is a relative term, but if youre talking up to about 11.5:1 for pump gas NA, or stock with boost on pump gas, youll be okay. You could even go 10.5:1 + single digit boost w/no issues

Why do you need new sleeves? you can handle 400hp with no block mods.(the sleeves and block itself are good to 700hp easy) Youll starting blowing out your spark and then headgaskets long before you have any bottom end failures if you fit forged rods/pistons.
If you DO decide that you need sleeves, the main source is going to be Darton, with their unique interlocking sleeve setup, top tier stuff, you could build anything with those installed, but they require EXTENSIVE block preparation. Besides Darton, youre making calls again, try Mahle.OrFederal Mogul whose AE/Goetze division manufactures cylinder liners

 

ok, i was under the impression i would need new sleeves...that makes me feel better...less money out of my pocket...i dont really expect to push anything past maybe 375...i just want it to be reliable