Does anyone have the torque specs? I lost my spec sheet.

ARP 231-4701

Help.....this is the last thing I'm waiting on before my engine goes back in

 

Still need help

 

Torque specs for Alloy 8740 ARP studs and bolts w/ ARP Moly :

10mm 60 ft lbs

11mm 71 ft lbs

12mm 86 ft lbs

1/2" 96 ft lbs

 

I thought I had to use a torque angle last time. Wasn't there some type of instructions that came with these? Also What torque do I install the studs?

 

That the numbers I got form a ARP rep when I studded my LS1. Since the LSJ is an aluminum block as well the numbers should apply to it as well.

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer..._250-600hp.pdf

It says here to install the head bolts using a torque angle meter and torque
them to 22 lbs ft plus 155°. That would be the torque number to install the studs to the block. The numebrs I gave you are the bolts to the studs.

 

IIRC the instructions said something like....... Use the stock torquing pattern but DO NOT use the torque specs; instead use the ARP specs provided.

 

morning BUMP

 

The studs go into the block hand tight. Then use GM's sequence, and tighten the nuts to 75 fl/lbs if your using the ARP Moly. Do not strech to any degree. Only the GM head bolts get stretched.

 

So it's ONLY 75 Ft/lbs?

 

Yes, use a 12pt socket too when you tighten them, or you won't get a grip. I would just scan the spec sheet but I don't have it in this garage.

 

Studs go in to 10ft lbs. Then the nuts get torqued when the cylinder head is on to the 75ftlbs IIRC. Remember to start at a lower number with the torque and work your way up to the 75ftlbs as your final torque spec.

 

Thanks guys

 

STUDS always go in only finger tight

 

That's what I figured, 75 ft lbs though was pretty spot on by my info. What size are the bolts then?
BTWfinger tight can be as high as 30 ft lbs if you've got a strong grip. I';ve had guys do that and I have to break out a wrench to back them off.

 

Not according to the spec sheet that came with my Golden Eagle headstuds! I went with the Golden Eagle studs because they have the glass bead finish which is more accurate when torquing down to final specs than the finish ARP has on their studs. It has worked great for me so far at 20psi all the time.

On the hand tight deal, I agree. I have both an IN.LB. torque wrench and a FT.LB. torque wrench for the reason I have broke and my buddies have broke bolts where you don't want something like that to happen. Everything gets torqued to spec now unless it's not an important component.

 

See I always break bolts when I use TQ specs. So I don't anymore. Only thing that gets TQ'd to spec are anything that needs stretched (i.e. my connecting rods).

I snapped Cam cap bolts using GMs TQ spec already, and also a timing chain guide bolt.

 

I snapped the cam cap bolt when I didn't use the torque specs. Does your torque wrench need to be calibrated? I bought a nice Craftsman one, and I haven't had a problem since.

 

I have the military special ones

 

Yeah, I also have a craftsman one. I trust my hand when tightening. Hell, 2 of us have re-used the cam gear and crank pulley bolts already with no issues.

Breaking a bolt in the head is not fun to drill/re-tap.

 

^^^^^^^^ Make that 3 of us

But this time I bought a new crankshaft pulley bolt

 

Yeah, I bought new bolts the first two times. 3rd time around I just said **** it.