If someone was to make a secondary reservoir and fill it with ice water, it would hold it's cool a lot longer.
Worked wonders on my buddies DSM. He could race for 3 hours with out too much heat up. If it got too warm, just drop the water and fill it up with some new ice water.

 

wish i had a thermometer, this **** is friggin cooolllldddd hehe.

sub freezing liquids ftw

just looked it up, if it gets down to my freezer temp...it should be at about -18*c or 0*f

 

Run meth threw a front mounted radiator. Not sure how much it would cool it though.

 

results:

ambient temp: 75*f
before burnout box, IAT2 at 100*f
crossed the traps at 126*f

 

By the way, when going from cold to hot like what freezing meth would do would only warp stuff...

What were you going through the traps before this...

 

nice, i may do this next time for the track, now to find a 2.5 gallon container.

 

before this in similar conditions with no meth at all, it would have been high 140s
later on in the night when the meth had warmed to ambient temps, i was hitting about 135

the biggest thing i noticed, was the cars ability to do more runs in succession.

usually on my cruise back to the pits, I watch my IATs carefully to decide whether im going to park or not.

today i was able to do 5-6 runs before hitting my normal "park it" temps
whereas usually it was 3-4

 

yeah not so much...

there is a massive amount of density difference between a gas and a liquid. Which equates to massive differences in ability to obsorb heat. Further more, nitrous is a gas, which means for the most part its only cooling the intake air charge, nothing else. The meth is a liquid, meaning its heavier/denser. This allows it to no only cool the air charge, but also the entire path that the air flows over. The meth will have a stronger molecular ability to hit something like a hot intake valve and stick to it for a microsecond or two and actually cool the metal of the valve.

Now a basic understanding of how heating and cooling rapidly effects metals and stresses them would allow you to realise that while this more than likely isnt going to cause a catastrophic crack in the blower/engine, it does have the potential to rapidly heat and cool the metal. Doing this too many times can start to cause metal fatigue and tiny microscopic cracks in the metal. Over time these cracks can grow and eventually cause the effected metal to fail.

 

Any updates? Is this still working good for you chilling the water/meth?

I would like to see what sub-zero mix would do to temps. The comparison to N2O is very much the same, it is injected as a liquid as well. You are injecting a vaporized mix, not submerging a hot S/C in liquid nitrogen so warping is not a issue.

 

I am curious on updates for this as well. Once I get my kit installed and tuned on the wideband I am thinking about cooling some as well for a track day.

 

o rly.
what do you think is sprayed along side the -130*f nitrous gas in a wet kit?

thinky thinky.



update: i tried it, my IAT2s sometimes went DOWN when i tromped on it
and where i would usually get about 3-4 runs before reaching 140+ iats and parking the car to cool....
I was able to do 7 runs in a row before it reached those temps.

 

i would imagine this would work somewhat similarly to what Ford was trying to do with the "Supercooler" system they were considering for the next-gen Lightning when the new F-150 was released like 5 years ago? at least in basic concept, not precise execution (im pretty sure that the supercooler only flooded the channels running threw the intake with the super-cool fluid, not actually injecting anything into the intake)

except that it cooled the fluid with the A/C system...was supposedly good for a 50hp boost, but it was only good for one shot before needing a recharge via highway-style driving for 5+ minutes.

regardless...I had thought of similar ideas myself. best of luck! im not much of a drag racer, but im pretty interested to see how this works out. back-to-back dyno #'s would be cool too, although inconvenient.

 

Wow??? sorry but you guys just thought of this???? Cooling your meth before the track???? Well, I see you got your results and thats awesome. I have tried this also with different methods, first method, mix my meth w/ water by freezing ice cubes (measured water) plus cold liquid water and measured meth. Results were equal to just putting w/w fluid into the freezer overnight. (that was the second way) Third was the most fun. Just lowered level in meth tank a little and dropped in some dry ice... that was the most fun and made a little more overall difference. You have to lower the level becuase the dry ice will boil the w/w fluid. Also, you may not want to tighten the cap all the way as it will pressure up your container and expand it a little. This got the w/w fluid down to -28C which worked great for my trunk mount kit as It does warm on its way to the engine.
When I have the time I am going to put the car on the dyno and see if there is any difference to be had with the colder meth. (measurable) without additional tuning, just cooler mist. I have the dyno so why not. lol.

 

you are the ray of sunshine, on an otherwise cloudy day....

 

nice nice, good stuff guys. How many cc/min of meth are you sprayin an0malous?

 

I'm pretty sure he is on a 3 gph nozzle like I am. Not sure what that is in cc/min.

 

im spraying ~150 cc/min right now but im going to step up to 305 cc/min n the near future, i have to have a tune 1st

 

how much is 150cc/min compared to GPH? There a conversion rate?

 

i think 150cc/min is about 2.3 gph

 

1 GPH = 63.1 mL/Min

1 mL/Min = 1 cc/min

150cc/min = 2.38 gph

So my 3.0 gph nozzle is 189.3cc/min.

 

yup im only on the 3 so far.
at this point i see no reason to go higher,
I can run 25* (probably more if i wanted) of timing from toe in to redline without knock.
so why spray any more?

 

Anom, is that 25° of timing include the added timing where it adds based on intake temp?

Once I get tuned I am going to shoot for 22ish ° of timing across the board. Hopefully going from the stage 2 tune to 11.5-11.6 and 22° of timing it really brings it alive.

 

I have no adders.
all my adder tables are zeroed, except for the parts that reduce timing due to excessive iats etc.

allows better control of timing.

 

Yeah that makes sense. I might have to set my timing tables up like that as well.

 

but i was using 100 porcent water i fill up the tank with ice and water and i felt increase of power like crazy ever the vibrant exhaust sound better.