NO, it is 1 hp for every 11 degrees.

 

yeah for every hp is about 11 degrees! I read it wrong. lol

 

It helps a lot, let me tell you. The longer your WOT the more temp reduction you get.

 

which of course helps reduce knock if i recall correctly!

 

yep which makes more power

 

...you people are going to kill my bank account.....

 

^^^ Cheaper to do it this way, than to buy the $280 end plate for GM. We're actually saving you some serious fundage this way!

 

im sorry im a tard and really cant understand any thing about this mod except drill a whole 1/2 in. and instal a new Y fitting but then what? hook that fitting to the block?

i hate being a noob at this stuff

 

Buahahaha!!! Noob!?!? You've Been A Member For Over A Year!!!

 

but its like i look at them diagrams and cant understand whats crappenin....is ther an open slot to plug a hose into that new inlet you drill.... or am i missing something

 

Blue, read this PDF GM made for it carefully. Let me know if you still have questions, and I'll try and help you out.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/pdfs/sidekit.pdf

 

The new fitting in the middle is the outlet, and the stock fitting are inlets.

 

^^^ Actually the new fitting is the inlet now, and the other two are outlets that connet at the Y piece to form a single outlet. I need to redo my diagram to make that change.

 

I also like how they fail to show the 2 bolts under the manifold that require your to remove the IC pump and bracket to access.

 

[QUOTE=Cobalt_Supercharged]Good point. It won't be too bad compared to that I'm sure. Here is what I think you wanted, let me know if it is not.

[QUOTE]
FYI !!!
The cores are setup wrong in this picture. As per GMS3 Instructions, the office plates are to be on the two inner ports. see page 2 for your reference. Flow can be completely stoped if done in correctly.

 

According to the GMS3 flow. That was posted before the GMS3 kit was released. The GMS3 uses the middle barb as a coolant inlet and the 2 outers as the coolant outlet. Blown 4-banger used the 2 outers as the inlet and the middle as the outlet. His are flipped correctly for his coolant flow.

 

I DID NOT DO THE ******* GM END PLATE!!! I DID THE MODIFICATION MYSELF AND I USE THE TWO STOCK FITTINGS AS INLETS, AND THE NEW MIDDLE ONE AS THE OUTLET!!! THE CORE ARE FLIPPED PROPERLY FOR COOLANT FLOWING THE WAY I DID IT!!! DON'T ******* TELL ME I DID MY OWN MODIFICATION WRONG BECAUSE I DID IT DIFFERENTLY THAN THE GM VERSION!!!one!!!!!!1111one!!!!11!
*panting hardly
Have a nice ******* day!!!
[/RANT]

 

#1 If you want to bitch then bitch to me directly.

#2 you could have just said calmly I did mine in reverse flow then the gm plate so is works this way. The reference to the GMS3 instructions and your instructions confused me. Thought you were replicating the GMS3 Kit with out a reversal of flow.

#3 I would apologize for this but .....

 

ok question blown 4 banger i have the 2.6 pulley ,60#, C/A he and stock he, methanol inject, and ported housing .do u thinck i need the dual pass ?my iat2 is usually 150-155

 

If I was running the 2.6" pulley, I would do everything I could to cool it down some more.
Colder=better. Always.

 

yea thats 4 sure i just dont know were to get all the parts here in az i dont want to pay the 300 for it at crate

 

You can get most of the parts at harbor fright, the actual fittings can be found on summitracing.com

 

I apologize for the out burst. I guess I just saw red, after seeing people come on here and post that the diagrams and pictures were wrong, even though they were for MY modification NOT the GM endplate. Sorry again, I kinda had a bad day. Hope we can still be friends

 

thx man i have one really close to the house i will buy everyting and start tomorrow

 

I wouldn't suggest doing it unless your prepared to be without your car for a day or two or 9
Make sure you have a way of getting the fitting tig welded on. If you didn't live so far away I'd help you out (you'll need it getting the intake manfold off)