Dual Pass intercooler - Page 3 - Cobalt SS Network

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Dual Pass intercooler

Old 12-28-2006, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
I DID NOT DO THE ******* GM END PLATE!!! I DID THE MODIFICATION MYSELF AND I USE THE TWO STOCK FITTINGS AS INLETS, AND THE NEW MIDDLE ONE AS THE OUTLET!!! THE CORE ARE FLIPPED PROPERLY FOR COOLANT FLOWING THE WAY I DID IT!!! DON'T ******* TELL ME I DID MY OWN MODIFICATION WRONG BECAUSE I DID IT DIFFERENTLY THAN THE GM VERSION!!!one!!!!!!1111one!!!!11!
*panting hardly
Have a nice ******* day!!!
[/RANT]


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Old 12-28-2006, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
I wouldn't suggest doing it unless your prepared to be without your car for a day or two or 9
Make sure you have a way of getting the fitting tig welded on. If you didn't live so far away I'd help you out (you'll need it getting the intake manfold off)
dont scare me like that the balt is not my every day , but i sure can use ur help if u hapend to b close let me know
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Old 12-29-2006, 12:00 AM
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Where do you live? IIRC its near speedworld right?
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Old 12-29-2006, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
Where do you live? IIRC its near speedworld right?
at 105 ave and camelback
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Old 12-29-2006, 12:04 AM
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WOW!!! Thats like 60 miles from where I live!
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Old 12-29-2006, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
WOW!!! Thats like 60 miles from where I live!
it is f%^&* far dot worry do u helpme a lot just by telling me were to get this stuff ill get it done some how i done everything else myself so far thx
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Old 12-29-2006, 12:10 AM
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I've done all my own stuff too! I'm gettin ready to rig up a heat exchanger sprayer.
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Old 12-29-2006, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
I've done all my own stuff too! I'm gettin ready to rig up a heat exchanger sprayer.
its the only way , cool let us know how that ends i may have to do one myself
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Old 12-29-2006, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by gilbert
its the only way , cool let us know how that ends i may have to do one myself
Man your just coping every mod I've done so far aren't you! jk man
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Old 12-29-2006, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
Man your just coping every mod I've done so far aren't you! jk man
u know it ,hey if it works for somebody else it works for me 2 ok man got to go nice talking to u ill post my results on the dual pass by monday( hopefully) laterzz.
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Old 12-29-2006, 12:41 AM
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Good luck! YOU'LL NEED IT FOR SURE!!!
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Old 12-29-2006, 01:06 AM
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yeah Blown did it all by himself.

Honestly I would plan it out ahead of time. Get all the parts together and schedule a time to take the end plate to a shop to be welded. Take the car apart the day before the appointment.

Make sure your fitting are aluminum so they can be welded without conflicts between the metals.
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Old 12-29-2006, 01:30 AM
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Yeah, of course I did all the work myself.... with the extreme help of Cobalt_Supercharged! I couldn't have done it without you Geroge!
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Old 12-29-2006, 01:45 AM
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Did you actually record your changes in iat2 temps? Or was that hypothetical?

I don't want to doubt, but I just want to make sure.
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Old 12-29-2006, 02:00 AM
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The longer you are WOT the greater the temp decrease, because...
1. With the dual pass IAT2 increase slower.
2. With the dual pass, my IAT2 has been over 170 ONE time, and that was pre heatsoaked, and a 20-140 mph run.
3. With the dual pass IAT2 tends to level off around 165, and stock it will keep rising forever.
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Old 12-29-2006, 02:05 AM
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Here is my guide to doing the dual pass.

1) DISCONECT THE BATTERY and raise the front end of the car high enough for you to easily get under it. I normally leave the battery connected when instructions say to disconect it, but you will be using a wrench right next to the starter and from experience it arcs very well. Ask Blown 4-banger as our friend welded a wrench to Blown's starter.

2) Take off the S/C.

3) Remove the hoses from the IC pump and catch the fluid that drains.

4) Remove the IC pump and entire IC pump mounting bracket.

5) Remove the 2 bolts under the intake manifold. They are just barely above the IC mounting bracket bolts and not shown in the GMS3 instructions.

6) Remove the 7 fastners on the top of the manifold and remove.

7) Drain as much of the coolant from the manifold as possible. This will make the removal of the end plate and cores less messy.

8) Remove the bolts from the endplate and remove. It will take some force to pull it off. Be careful not to drop anything. There are 2 brass washers and 1 o-ring per core.

9) Remove the 2 cores. You can chose which ones you want and flip them. Just remember that the inlet has the small hole, the outlet has the large hole. Like the end plate, the cores are difficult to remove. I suggest going to a local Ace Hardware and getting some rubber jaw covers for your pliers to prevent scoreing them. There is a second set of washers and o-rings on the other side of the cores to look out for. The cores will make a horrible scritching sound as you are pulling them out. Just be gentle not to bend the fins.

10) Replace the cores with the small hole as the inlet for your new flow pattern and the large hole for the outlet.

11) Take the end plate to have the fitting welded in.

12) Replace the end plate and torque the bolts to the specs provided in the GMS3 instructions. (link posted in post #36)

13) Now would be a good time IMO to replace the stock intake manifold gasket with the revised version from GM if you haven't already ( http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1723C137.aspx ) and replace the intake manifold. Replace all the upper and lower fastners only hand tight then torque them according to the GMS3 specs.

14) Replace the IC pump mounting bracket and IC pump.

15) Reconnect all the coolant lines making sure the flow is going the proper direction for how you flipped the cores.

16) Refill and bleed the air from the system. I would suggest adding the extra resevior so you have a good place to bleed and extra coolant to prevent heat soak.

17) Replace the S/C and make sure everything is properly torqued and connected.

18) Take the car off the stands and take her for a spin. The real bennefits are the lower temps that allow you to add more timing to your tune whether it be for pump gas or race gas.

Feel free to ask questions if you need.
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Old 12-29-2006, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
Yeah, of course I did all the work myself.... with the extreme help of Cobalt_Supercharged! I couldn't have done it without you Geroge!
That's right biatch. It was a real learning experience. I'm glad I was able to experience it even though I wanted to destroy your car with a baseball bat followed by some C4.
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Old 12-29-2006, 02:22 AM
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[QUOTE=Cobalt_Supercharged]
8) Remove the bolts from the endplate and remove. It will take some force to pull it off. Be careful not to drop anything. There are 2 brass washers and 1 o-ring per core./QUOTE]


What is the purpose of the brass washers?

Where are they?

How likely are these to come out when removing the cores?

Sorry for all the questions...
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Old 12-29-2006, 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Cobalt_Supercharged
That's right biatch. It was a real learning experience. I'm glad I was able to experience it even though I wanted to destroy your car with a baseball bat followed by some C4.
Trust me, when you weren't there, that final night while bleeding the system, I was literally inched from smashing the **** out of my car with a 1/2" drive socket wrench.
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Old 12-29-2006, 02:26 AM
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[QUOTE=Admiral Jedi]
Originally Posted by Cobalt_Supercharged
8) Remove the bolts from the endplate and remove. It will take some force to pull it off. Be careful not to drop anything. There are 2 brass washers and 1 o-ring per core./QUOTE]


What is the purpose of the brass washers?

Where are they?

How likely are these to come out when removing the cores?

Sorry for all the questions...
The brass washers are on the end of the cores where the o-ring is.
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Old 12-29-2006, 11:22 AM
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I love playing with C4, and blowing **** up. I get to do it regularly too! I love my job that the even Air Force pays me to do!

How difficult is it to pull out the cores? Any tips or tricks to doing it safely.
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Old 12-29-2006, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger View Post
You can get most of the parts at harbor fright, the actual fittings can be found on summitracing.com
so i went to the store this morning and noting i even ask them for what i need it and they dint know , any idea where else can i found the parts ? i dont wana order them on line .
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Old 12-29-2006, 04:33 PM
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What parts did you try to get? I was talking about the pipe tap, and 1/2" drill bit. Do you know where the parker store is? Its on Broadway and 35th ST. Thats where I got my fittings for it, they have EVERYTHING!!! Even extra hose which you will need (3/4" heater hose)
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Old 12-29-2006, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 2K5SS/SC? View Post
I love playing with C4, and blowing **** up. I get to do it regularly too! I love my job that the even Air Force pays me to do!

How difficult is it to pull out the cores? Any tips or tricks to doing it safely.
I don't get paid for it but I occasionally blow up 2 litre bottles with dry ice, does that count?

The cores are stuck in there pretty good, just get a firm grip on the end of it, and pull like hell!
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Old 12-29-2006, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger View Post
What parts did you try to get? I was talking about the pipe tap, and 1/2" drill bit. Do you know where the parker store is? Its on Broadway and 35th ST. Thats where I got my fittings for it, they have EVERYTHING!!! Even extra hose which you will need (3/4" heater hose)
well i was looking for the fittings i have all the tools i need , what pipe tap r u talking about ? i found parker store but is closed till the 2nd

Last edited by gilbert; 12-29-2006 at 06:29 PM.
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