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dual pass question

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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 07:43 AM
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From: nj
dual pass question

Ok i have my 1/2" npt to 3/4" hose barb fitting and my 1/8" npt to 1/4" hose barb fitting. I also have the extra resivoir. My question is what is this .040 orifice? Where can i ifind it? i looked inthe auto parts store by my house and i wasnt able to find anything that fits in the 1/4" hose. Is the orifice needed? Where to i intall the orifice?
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 08:02 AM
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Look in the vacuum fittings section of your local auto parts store, it is a universal splice or tee designed to be used with several sizes of hose. You cut off the 1/4"-1/8" sections and press it into the 1/4" bleed line at the NPT fitting end with a screwdriver or similar tool.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 08:05 AM
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Someone should do a really good how-to on the dual-pass with good pictures. I would like to do this but with all the fittings it seems really confusing.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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From: Still fixing others mistakes.
why 1/4 inch?

-6 = 3/8's
-4 = 1/4

or close to at least. the stock aftercooler lines are much larger then 1/4 inch
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Area47
why 1/4 inch?
You run a 1/4" hose from the bleed fitting (not in use in stock trim) on top of the stock heat exchanger to your new intercooler system reservoir tank.

We're talking about the GM Option B plumbing schematic.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 12:57 PM
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You don't have to use it though. Its an optional thing. I've done it both ways, there really isn't a difference. Just supposedly helps keep air out of the system.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 01:02 PM
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From: Duncannon, PA
Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
You don't have to use it though. Its an optional thing. I've done it both ways, there really isn't a difference. Just supposedly helps keep air out of the system.
Do you think running a 2.9" a dual-pass would be beneficial? I am still stock cooling wise. I don't drive the car hard at all, hardly get wot runs all the way to 3rd gear but I am planning on going to the track in a couple weeks. I was just wondering how difficult it is to do the gm option b. What is the difference between the dual-pass kits you sell and the ones CED sell?
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 01:07 PM
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From: Ft Lauderdale
The orifice can be found at any auto store, All it is: A reducer in the Line! They come in a tee with 3 sides & you cut it to get the piece that fits in the Line, Like it shows in the diagram!
The reduction in the line helps keep the pressure up in the main system & it slowly bleeds into the reservoir creating a Vacuum in a sense! The reason you dont want to run without it is if it is just a open 1/4 inch line the pressure in the system will go down & the pump can't handle the extra flow! Thats why you reduce it to create back pressure! Been running it for months now No problems what so ever!
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BriantheLion26
Do you think running a 2.9" a dual-pass would be beneficial? I am still stock cooling wise. I don't drive the car hard at all, hardly get wot runs all the way to 3rd gear but I am planning on going to the track in a couple weeks. I was just wondering how difficult it is to do the gm option b. What is the difference between the dual-pass kits you sell and the ones CED sell?
Biggest thing with the dual-pass is consistent cooling over time and a slight overall drop in intake air 2 temps, after the blower. You will realize a small increase in power, too small to feel most likely, but the car will stay more consistent in back to back runs or long runs at WOT. I had a bad I/C pump for a while and you didn't really notice the effect of not having fresh coolant in the manifold as long as you didn't hold it all the way through third or do hard runs back to back. Its just one of those things that will be more beneficial later on at higher boost levels and in hotter weather. Option B is a pain in the ass, I can make the brackets and supply you with everything you need if you would like, and my kit is cheaper and includes clamps, hoses and such. The only downside to my kit is that it is not a brand new endplate, it is a used one that I clean up. Other than that, its just a cheaper version of the same thing, and I include all the hardware you need. Like I posted in that thread, I did it for people like me that can't have thier car down for more than a day. The install takes about 4 hours if you have parts all together, so you can buy my kit, install it whenever you want an be driving the car the next day. If you take yours off and make your own plate, unless you do it all yourself and have some decent mechanical ability, you won't have the car back together the same day.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 01:18 PM
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From: O Fallon, MO
Originally Posted by BriantheLion26
Do you think running a 2.9" a dual-pass would be beneficial? I am still stock cooling wise. I don't drive the car hard at all, hardly get wot runs all the way to 3rd gear but I am planning on going to the track in a couple weeks. I was just wondering how difficult it is to do the gm option b. What is the difference between the dual-pass kits you sell and the ones CED sell?
If you are running a smaller then stock pulley the dualpass will help. It helps keep IAT down over multiple hard runs and helps reduce heat soak slightly. The dualpass is not "HARD" to do, but it is time consuming. Make sure you have lenty of hoses so you don't have to make a bunch of runs back and forth from the auto parts store.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 01:20 PM
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From: Ft Lauderdale
Originally Posted by rnjmur
If you are running a smaller then stock pulley the dualpass will help. It helps keep IAT down over multiple hard runs and helps reduce heat soak slightly. The dualpass is not "HARD" to do, but it is time consuming. Make sure you have lenty of hoses so you don't have to make a bunch of runs back and forth from the auto parts store.


Hey man off subject, But you Know I was born in Saint Charles & My Mom still lives there!
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 01:40 PM
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From: O Fallon, MO
Originally Posted by BriantheLion26
Someone should do a really good how-to on the dual-pass with good pictures. I would like to do this but with all the fittings it seems really confusing.
Someone out here was talking about doing the dualpass option b sometime soon, if I help them out I will make sure to take pictures for a how-to.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 01:42 PM
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From: Duncannon, PA
Originally Posted by rnjmur
Someone out here was talking about doing the dualpass option b sometime soon, if I help them out I will make sure to take pictures for a how-to.
Awesome, thanks a lot. I would greatly appreciate it. Did you buy your endplate from CED or from someone on here? How much do you think it costs to do the full option B verses A.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 01:46 PM
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From: Still fixing others mistakes.
Originally Posted by Blur.fx
You run a 1/4" hose from the bleed fitting (not in use in stock trim) on top of the stock heat exchanger to your new intercooler system reservoir tank.

We're talking about the GM Option B plumbing schematic.
ah ha i see.

maybe i should wake up and read sometimes
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BriantheLion26
How much do you think it costs to do the full option B verses A.
Probably another $75 total for the coolant tank and cap from GM and then some fittings and hoses. Takes longer to install but that might be an even trade off for the headache of trying to bleed the air from an option A system.

Here's a close up picture of the "orifice", I already cut the one side and put the missing piece inside my bleed line.

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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 02:50 PM
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From: nj
Which Way Do You Face The Oriface? The Smaller End Facing Into The Resivoir Or The Smaller End Facing Into The Heat Exchanger?
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by shiftingloco310
Which Way Do You Face The Oriface? The Smaller End Facing Into The Resivoir Or The Smaller End Facing Into The Heat Exchanger?
Doesn't matter, the point is to create a smaller opening to slow down the fluid transfer from the top of the intercooler into the bottle.
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