forced4

iTrader: (1)

This may be better in another sub-forum. Please move as you see fit.

Hi Guys, been a long time since I've been on the forum. Sold my SS/SC a few years ago and bought a car that could better fit a family.

I also picked up a Porsche 944. It's a 50k original mile car with a bad engine. I had originally planned to just do what everyone does: stuff an LSX in it and be done. Well, I'm more interested in smaller displacement forced induction setups. I haven't totally tossed the idea of doing the aluminum 5.3 truck engine but I'd like to get back into an ecotec and I think it would sound/look more at home than american muscle.

With all that being said, I have been searching for days. In order to meet my power goal of 400-500 rwhp I believe I should start with an LAP or LE5. These seem to be found relatively cheap in comparison to the LSJ/LNF/LDK's. They are also the stronger Gen2 block design. I'm leaning more towards the LAP because of sleeve thickness. I am hoping to leave the sleeves as-is. Other than that, aftermarket pistons and rods and ARP fasteners, and quality headgasket, nuetral balance shafts, damper, great tuning, etc, etc, are all a given.

So, if I go with the LAP my question is the cylinder head. Would it be easier to go to a non-vvt head such as the L61 (if that is even possible)? I'm hoping to use a stock head for now with springs/retainers/seats to help with the rpm and upgrade after the car is running under it's own power. Any good links about how much the LAP head can take? I've read the build books, but that is a non-vvt L61 head.

Anyone have an opinion with supporting information on L61 vs. LAP vs. LE5? I'm not wanting to buy an LSJ or direct injection motor. I'd rather take my time and use an assortment of ecotec parts if need be.

Also, thinking about using an ecotec to t5 adapter with a machine plate to adapt that to the Porsche torque tube. (similar to what is done in a V8 swap). Interested in any input you might have on that.

Thanks!

forced4

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have info or maybe suggest a different forum?

wayfarer

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like fun to me either 4 or 8. My parents had an '85 944 (they bought new) when I was a teenager.

You sure you want to use a T5 ? Not a trans that will take a lot of beating.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

You have a lot of misinformation there. The sleeve thing is all wrong. The Gen 2 block has thinner walled clearances to help with cooling. That is why zzp makes a gen 3 girdled block now. My Gen 1 LSJ with just a simple sleeve swap is already making 540hp (15% drivetrain loss to the wheels) and boosting to 27 psi.

Dont go DI its a pain to tune around and requires a 5th MAP triggered injector. Use the LSJ. It has the high flowing head, makes great power with just a piston swap, make even more power with a basic chromoly spun sleeve pressed in place of the stock cast iron crap.

If you are going to build an ecotec to 500, you will find there are way more SEFI LSJ setups doing it without the need for screwing around with DI.

You goals are pretty lofty although I would love to see this come together, there are better ecotec forums for what you are trying to do.

Axelthered05

iTrader: (9)

yeah idk about the gen 2 block ive heard some gernade stories with them, stick with a gen 1 or a zzp gen 3 block or perhaps lookinto a B207R engine its a turbo LSJ froom a saab 9-3 it has the intake manifold you want, the high flowing head you want, the cams you want, you will need a biger turbo and since its almost exactly like the LSJ you can use aftermarket LSJ Internals to build it with and you can use ZZP turbo setup on them. you can get them on ebay from $400-$800 just a sugestion

forced4

iTrader: (1)

Just thinking of using the bellhousing to an adapter plate to the upgraded stock driveline as most v8 conversions do.

forced4

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the information. You seem pretty knowledgeable and I appreciate your help. It's difficult to find correct info in forums at times. I definately want to avoid DI. If I wanted to try to do this without sleeving a block and without using an LSJ, what is the strongest block to go with? Is it the L61? The LSJ is a bunch of money to get ahold of when you don't already have one. The zzp girdled blocks seem like too much money as well.

If I did have to go with an LSJ with for this project how much did sleeving run you? I agree the goals may seem lofty, which is why I havent decided for sure to go ecotec instead of lsx. Just trying to do my homework.

forced4

iTrader: (1)

I'm not really interested in buying any out of the box turbo setups due to the custom nature of this build. I want things the way I want them rather than making things work. Mostly referring to the plumbing, etc.Hope that makes sense. Thanks for your ideas on the engine. I will keep a look out for the saab variant of the lsj.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

there is guy on here that will sell you a LSJ block bare for 300 bucks, send it off to mrbelvedere for sleeves installed (his cost varies for install) and you will have a solid foundation for any build even with stock rods and crank, you can make 500 whp. The total cost for all that would be like 2000 bucks. If you are doing it any cheaper than you are going to break stuff. At a minimum you need sleeves and pistons. The stock rods and crank in the LSJ are top notch.

contact mongorat427 in the for sale section.

forced4

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for that information. Gives me some things to consider and pointed in a direction for more research.

Is the lsj head the best non-vvt head to use? I don't already have a head, so I think I have options here. I am just asking because on our endurance Honda we were able to mix and match oem parts to get a better combination. Took a little machining but it worked. These are the kind of "outside the box" questions I am looking for answers to.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

my stock cams (lsj) with a mild port job (1mm both directions with the intake runners caverned out) made the power you see in my signature. I have 82# valve springs titanium retainers, ferrea stock sized valves and a 3 angle valve job. But a stock head will flow almost as good! You dont need cams, the stockers are great!

Sox-Fan

iTrader: (7)

Mongo also has a head too. And I thought that I saw rods in his last ad. He probably has almost everything you need to build a motor and his pricing is very reasonable. Usually ships same day. I've bought many parts from him. All shipped that day.

mike k

I have a 944 with a turbo LSJ- with 968 transaxle
Lots of fabrication to make this work- forgetting the fact I just blew the block apart.

If you haven't got full fab facilities, I would suggest just buy an LS- kit.


Mike