Help with Cobra H/E
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-08-06
Location: Duncannon, PA
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Help with Cobra H/E
I got my cobra heat exchanger in yesterday and just had some questions for you guys with an extra H/E. I tried doing it like blown 4 bangers how-to but it would not bleed the air at all. We pretty much got as much coolant in it as we could and then I took out the bleeder on the stock h/e (the screw on top of it) and let a good bit of air out until coolant ran out then I pluged it again. I let the pump run on its own for at least an hour so or and if the coolant line would get low I would fill it. What I am wondering if it is OK to just drive it until the air comes out. Once I thought it was good I let the pump run again for atleast 45 minutes and the line didnt drop at all. Does that mean all the air is out? I also noticed the smell of burning coolant when I got back after a drive and a little smoke (from it burning I am assuming). I think it is just from what we spilled and it got on the radiator. I thought I sprayed it down good, I did after I got home too, but I can still smell some. Not as much as the first trip, but it is still there. Anything I should check or do you guys think it is good to go?
#2
Senior Member
yeah its fine to drive and bleed the coolant. The IC pump works in relation to RPMS. The higher the RPMS the faster and harder the IC pump works. I wouldnt worry about burning coolant just yet. As long as you have no leaks its prolly just burning off.
Where did you mount your HE? Did you use the L brackets and just mount it up front? Or did you connect it to stock cooling rack?
Where did you mount your HE? Did you use the L brackets and just mount it up front? Or did you connect it to stock cooling rack?
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-08-06
Location: Duncannon, PA
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah its fine to drive and bleed the coolant. The IC pump works in relation to RPMS. The higher the RPMS the faster and harder the IC pump works. I wouldnt worry about burning coolant just yet. As long as you have no leaks its prolly just burning off.
Where did you mount your HE? Did you use the L brackets and just mount it up front? Or did you connect it to stock cooling rack?
Where did you mount your HE? Did you use the L brackets and just mount it up front? Or did you connect it to stock cooling rack?
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-02-05
Location: Salt Lake, UT
Posts: 5,446
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It'll be just fine. The last one I helped install we didn't "bleed" at all... we just let the car sit at idle for a good 30 mins and kept topping it off as it got low... it's been on for 2 weeks now... no problems.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-08-06
Location: Duncannon, PA
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK cool. That is why I wanted to use the jumper, just let the thing run for hours, won't hurt anything. The coolant smell just scared me but when I thought about removing the bleeder cap on the stock h/e coolant came out and I know it has to be wedged between the stock h/e and radiator. No real good way to get a hose in there either. Yeah I got a jar of coolant with me too just incase it needs any.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-20-06
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 5,450
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah its fine to drive and bleed the coolant. The IC pump works in relation to RPMS. The higher the RPMS the faster and harder the IC pump works. I wouldnt worry about burning coolant just yet. As long as you have no leaks its prolly just burning off.
Where did you mount your HE? Did you use the L brackets and just mount it up front? Or did you connect it to stock cooling rack?
Where did you mount your HE? Did you use the L brackets and just mount it up front? Or did you connect it to stock cooling rack?
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-08-06
Location: Duncannon, PA
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
See that is what I thought too. I know when I jumper it you can hear it run but when the car is on you obviously can't. Can any scan tools or anything measure iat2 temps? I don't have an interceptor but my dad has access too all kinds of expensive snap on scanners. Not just ones that can read codes, much better ones. I told him to bring it home to see what it can read. I know he had it on a blazer one time and it told him a bunch of ****, hell he could even shut the car off with it.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-08-06
Location: Duncannon, PA
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah that makes sense to me. I can see it might flow a little more when the car is on due to more voltage, just like head lights. When they are on and the car is off they arn't as bright, but I would think it is either on or off. Is it safe to say that the cobra h/e will net about the same decrease in temps as the dual-pass with stock h/e?
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-20-06
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 5,450
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
See that is what I thought too. I know when I jumper it you can hear it run but when the car is on you obviously can't. Can any scan tools or anything measure iat2 temps? I don't have an interceptor but my dad has access too all kinds of expensive snap on scanners. Not just ones that can read codes, much better ones. I told him to bring it home to see what it can read. I know he had it on a blazer one time and it told him a bunch of ****, hell he could even shut the car off with it.
Yeah that makes sense to me. I can see it might flow a little more when the car is on due to more voltage, just like head lights. When they are on and the car is off they arn't as bright, but I would think it is either on or off. Is it safe to say that the cobra h/e will net about the same decrease in temps as the dual-pass with stock h/e?
Last edited by Rangerondubz; 08-13-2007 at 11:16 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-08-06
Location: Duncannon, PA
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pull the aftercooler relay, its the 2nd up on the left. It says on the back of the fuse panel too. Jump the lower left and upper right.
Like this:
_ X
X _
X is where your jumper goes. You can use bare wire but I wouldn't recommend it. I got ends on my wire that plug into them and a 10A fuse on it. Just makes the pump turn right on. Excellent for track days. I ran my pump and fans for hours. Check Wopontours how-to for good pics.
10-15 degrees, thats pretty good right? I am running a 2.9" on the gm stage 2 so I don't think I get all that hot but any decrease is good.
You have a single pass too? That seems pretty good. I'm sure once it cools down my IAT2's should be pretty good.
Like this:
_ X
X _
X is where your jumper goes. You can use bare wire but I wouldn't recommend it. I got ends on my wire that plug into them and a 10A fuse on it. Just makes the pump turn right on. Excellent for track days. I ran my pump and fans for hours. Check Wopontours how-to for good pics.
You have a single pass too? That seems pretty good. I'm sure once it cools down my IAT2's should be pretty good.
Last edited by BriantheLion26; 08-13-2007 at 11:27 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#15
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Pull the aftercooler relay, its the 2nd up on the left. It says on the back of the fuse panel too. Jump the lower left and upper right.
Like this:
_ X
X _
X is where your jumper goes. You can use bare wire but I wouldn't recommend it. I got ends on my wire that plug into them and a 10A fuse on it. Just makes the pump turn right on. Excellent for track days. I ran my pump and fans for hours. Check Wopontours how-to for good pics.
Like this:
_ X
X _
X is where your jumper goes. You can use bare wire but I wouldn't recommend it. I got ends on my wire that plug into them and a 10A fuse on it. Just makes the pump turn right on. Excellent for track days. I ran my pump and fans for hours. Check Wopontours how-to for good pics.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-08-06
Location: Duncannon, PA
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah no prob. I only jump two jumpers, the pump and the fans that make them run at 50%. I forget which relay it is, but there is two. Look at the fuse panel, one is at the bottom right and the other is about halfway up. I used the one that is halfway up. The bottom made them run at 100% and blew my 15A fuse in a second lol. If you run both of them your manifold will be cool to the touch in like 15 min.
This should help you out Joe.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/heat-exchanger-fans-switch-mod-68621/
This should help you out Joe.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/heat-exchanger-fans-switch-mod-68621/
Last edited by BriantheLion26; 08-13-2007 at 11:33 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-08-06
Location: Duncannon, PA
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cool. Well as long as I can get that smell to go away it should be good. I might run the pump again when I get home just to make sure the air is out but it should be.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-08-06
Location: Duncannon, PA
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I hooked up the scanner my dad brought home and it monitors all kinds of ****. It has iat, iat2, you name it. Im gonna take it to work and log the iat2 to see how it works with the cobra. What is a good iat2 in 80° with a 2.9"? I'm gonna do a good 2nd gear pull and see what it goes up to.
I fired it up and at idle the Iat was 90 and the Iat2 went up to about 108. What do most people get just driving around and a good 2nd and 3rd gear pull?
I fired it up and at idle the Iat was 90 and the Iat2 went up to about 108. What do most people get just driving around and a good 2nd and 3rd gear pull?
Last edited by BriantheLion26; 08-13-2007 at 09:21 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-08-06
Location: Duncannon, PA
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-08-06
Location: Duncannon, PA
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well driving to work my iat was about 60-68° and the iat2 under normal driving was about 15°-20° warmer. it was usually about 80ish. I got on it once hard in 2nd and little of 3rd and saw the iat2 hit about 111 or so and soon as I left off it dropped back into the 80s in a matter of seconds. This seem like good iats with the cobra h/e and ambient about 65 this morning?
Anyone with a <3.0" pulley monitor IAT2s?
Anyone with a <3.0" pulley monitor IAT2s?
Last edited by BriantheLion26; 08-14-2007 at 01:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#23
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: 04-02-06
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 4,513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i havent seen IAT2 below 90 degrees for months and thats on a stock pulley and heat exchanger
and let me get this straight the intercooler switch if you have the switch flipped and you start the car and let it run for more than 10 seconds are you screwed? Its just a ground wire?
and let me get this straight the intercooler switch if you have the switch flipped and you start the car and let it run for more than 10 seconds are you screwed? Its just a ground wire?
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-08-06
Location: Duncannon, PA
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i havent seen IAT2 below 90 degrees for months and thats on a stock pulley and heat exchanger
and let me get this straight the intercooler switch if you have the switch flipped and you start the car and let it run for more than 10 seconds are you screwed? Its just a ground wire?
and let me get this straight the intercooler switch if you have the switch flipped and you start the car and let it run for more than 10 seconds are you screwed? Its just a ground wire?