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how strong are lsj crank's?

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Old 11-19-2007, 09:12 AM
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how strong are lsj crank's?

i am getting ready to put a ton of crap on my balt and i am told that with everything on that it should make about 330 hp. i have also heard that the lsj cranks break around 320-350 hp. anyone have any solid proof or know about this?
Old 11-19-2007, 09:14 AM
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riceeater snapped his at 450whp but that was due to him spinning the motor past 7600~7800 with no nuetral balance shafts. You will be fine with almost anything you can throw at it.
Old 11-19-2007, 09:17 AM
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im guessing you are taking out the stock blower
Old 11-20-2007, 08:45 AM
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no having serious head work and probably cams. i hear that i should expect around 330 hp after i do the head work. and that is without exhaust or intake. which will also be going on. so i'll be looking at about 340-350.
Old 11-21-2007, 12:45 AM
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haha good luck... haha
Old 11-21-2007, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ifknrock09
i am getting ready to put a ton of crap on my balt and i am told that with everything on that it should make about 330 hp. i have also heard that the lsj cranks break around 320-350 hp. anyone have any solid proof or know about this?
i have heard this...........but after riding\driving in rice's car i dont see this at all......... his did break but for the reason listed above........look at pauls turbo car.......hes way into the 20+ psi's just fine..........i would be more worried about the rods they r the second weak point......pistons r the real problem tho cause of heat and what not.........
Old 11-21-2007, 01:39 AM
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piston's would be the only thing at that power level i would believe
Old 11-21-2007, 02:13 AM
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would be wise to change the rods and pistons at 300+hp. gm powerbook says to use the eagle crank at the 600+hp level.
Old 11-21-2007, 02:16 AM
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they changed the rods becuase they were spraying juice at it, thats a little harder on the rods
Old 11-21-2007, 02:26 AM
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I have spoke to GM on the issue a few times, and they say that once you start approaching 400hp, you should change the rods... so realistically, they can probably hold 450 or so.

As far as the Crank, that thing is supposed to be Bulletproof as long as you've got everything running like it should. It should hold 500-600+hp easily.
Old 11-21-2007, 03:11 AM
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WITH BALANCE SHAFTS the crank is good for ~600 horse. Cryo freeze it, and its good for ~700+
Old 11-21-2007, 08:53 AM
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i am expecting to have to change out the pistons and rods eventually. they aren't something that i am real worried about right away. i have the gm build book. so i know when i should have to change things. but in one part of the book it says that the crank is good to like 300 and the other says i think 500 or 600. but cranks don't get taken out by the HP. its the RPM's. so i guess i'll just change my redline with hptuners at about 7,000. and not go over that. i don't know
Old 11-21-2007, 08:56 AM
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i'd change it to 7250, to make up for the slow tac
Old 11-21-2007, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ifknrock09
i am expecting to have to change out the pistons and rods eventually. they aren't something that i am real worried about right away. i have the gm build book. so i know when i should have to change things. but in one part of the book it says that the crank is good to like 300 and the other says i think 500 or 600. but cranks don't get taken out by the HP. its the RPM's. so i guess i'll just change my redline with hptuners at about 7,000. and not go over that. i don't know
The 2.2L Crank is only good for 300 or so. The LSJ crank is good for 600hp. And it'll hold 8k, but its gotta have Balance Shafts, which you've already got. Just make sure you get strong enough valve springs that would allow you to rev that high, and you'll be good.

Originally Posted by ggarcia86
I'd change it to 7250, to make up for the slow tac
Yeah... that's a good idea.
Old 11-21-2007, 01:38 PM
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The RPM is all about the balance. A full racing crank, balanced incorrectly will snap at idle if its bad enough. My crank is at a zero balance, meaning there is no variation or vibration when its spinning. My crank is safe to spin to 12,000 rpm because of the extreme balance. Also a better balanced crank makes better power because it spins freer.
Old 11-21-2007, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
The RPM is all about the balance. A full racing crank, balanced incorrectly will snap at idle if its bad enough. My crank is at a zero balance, meaning there is no variation or vibration when its spinning. My crank is safe to spin to 12,000 rpm because of the extreme balance. Also a better balanced crank makes better power because it spins freer.
He's right. Balance shafts are a just a band aid fix for cheap manufacturers. Honda balances from factory. So does Nissan. Your stock LSJ crank should be fine 500+ just get it balanced and checked. And have all your pistons, rods, rings and bearings weighed and balanced so that they are all the same weight.
Old 11-21-2007, 02:23 PM
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This thread is very helpful..subscribing. So neutral balance shafts are great internals to get, along with piston rods and actual pistons, eh? And you should get your crank balanced as well as getting valve springs?
Old 11-21-2007, 02:26 PM
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depends on what power you want and how hard you wanna run the car. valve springs and neutral balance shafts are for higher reviing cars, pistons need to be upgraded when you start throwing too much heat and power at them.
Old 11-21-2007, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Scythe_Snake
This thread is very helpful..subscribing. So neutral balance shafts are great internals to get, along with piston rods and actual pistons, eh? And you should get your crank balanced as well as getting valve springs?
Do you mean connecting rods? or wrist pins?
Old 11-21-2007, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
Do you mean connecting rods? or wrist pins?
Connecting rods ( i thought they were called piston rods sorry. ) Wrist pins are the things connecting the Pistons and the rods right?
Old 11-22-2007, 01:47 AM
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Yes, you are correct.
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