elite_Cyborg

iTrader: (6)

Has anyone ran a electric water pump and balance shafts delete and not running a accessory chain. I'm debating on doing this. Any thoughts?

1badLS

It would mos def have to be a custom water pump.Ive never seen an electric pump for these motors.

06cobaltindallas

meziere has electric water pumps. the gm drag car uses one. im planning on using one on my build too, only thing i cant figure out is how much gpm does the electric have to be.
but yes you can get rid of most all that stuff behind the cover and you would need a custom block off plate in the back with an an- fitting

elite_Cyborg

iTrader: (6)

what would the an be for?

1Bad67

I have thought about doing this too. I'd just gut the stock pump, and remove the chain. The factory balance shafts could be left in place (not turning) to block the oil flow so you don't need the blockoffs.

bolus

Other than just an interesting project what were you hoping to gain with that setup? You dont really gain any HP.

elite_Cyborg

iTrader: (6)

why would you not gain any more horsepower? its less rotating mass

bolus

The dyno's I've seen show no gains despite what GM said. But I haven't seen may of them with before and after dynos like these guys did
http://www.z22se.co.uk/forum/viewtop...rt=250#p111214

It gets you the higher RPM them without risk of the shafts exploding, though I've never heard of the shafts exploding either .

I did the GM balance shaft delete (GM racing part XGH676) and kept the water pump. In the end I dont think it was worth the effort for possible minimal gains and increased vibration for the money that was spent.

Now its a cool project, and that's why I did it, but in the end I would have spent the money elsewhere if I had to do it again given the little if any gains in real word use

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Its not less rotating mass its less parasitic load

The main reason the shafts are removed is that they put A LOT of stress on the accesory chain beyond about 7k rpm, that coupled with the fact that that the shafts themselves are inexpensive cast metal and you run the risk of them tearing themselves and the block apart at constantly high revs. Race engines are looking for every last tenth of a HP so it makes sense for them, removing them also shaves weight.

If your gona be running well past 7000-7500rpm ALL the time, then by all means do a shaft delete or neutral shafts to reduce the strain on the chain and get some peace of mind, but dont expect a lot of power. With a full shaft delete you MIGHT get close to the amount of power that is equal to the variation in back to back dyno runs, meaning you wont even see it on a chassis dyno

Getting rid of the water pump on a car that came ECO powered from the factory is imo a huge waste UNLESS youre goin after records and have money to blow.

If you were doing a swap and had changed engine orientation or had some other clearance issues Id so why not, but in a Cobalt? waste of time and money.

Now I will tell you that once upon a time I had a copy of a dyno run that I wasnt supposed to have, and with no engine driven accesories, that is no A/C compressor, no alternator, no balance shafts and no water pump an ECO would make about 13hp extra beyond 6800rpm

06cobaltindallas

the an fitting would be for the outlet of the new water pump to connect to the block off plate so you can still have water flow