I just received my Gen III block and figured we could have a place for all of the Gen III block questions.

So, I am curious how everyone ran their oil cooler. Pictures? Thanks!

 

You either don't run it or drill the block out and run an external one.

 

Yeah, I am trying to figure that out. I am going to run one but looking at where people tapped the block and such

 

if you run one make sure you run an inline thermostat

 

Why so?

 

I got a ford trans cooler from mongo, still deciding on the fittings and lines for the cooler and turbo.

 

Why so?

 

Trying to get VW to send pictures of how you tapped the block but he is out of town. He said he will send me pics when he gets back

 

The oil cooler has two purposes on our car- warm the oil up to temperature faster and then cool it if it does get too hot. Oil temp rises at about 1/3 the speed the coolant rises, so getting it up to temp faster dramatically helps the PCV system work by burning off water/fuel in the crankcase.

If you run a cooler without a thermostat you really hurt the cars ability to truly warm up (oil fully warm not coolant) as quick, compromising the integrity of the oil by being over contaminated with water. It would be interesting to do a test on the differences in oil warm up time with stock oil-coolant heat exchanger, no oil cooler, and an air-oil cooler without a thermostat.

 

Seems logical. Do you have a Gen III?

 

ill add too any time oil coolers are used a -8an at the VERY minimum is what needs to be used. ive seen some using -6an and its a restriction.

 

Ill be looking to add an air type oil cooler as well, but on LSJ block, the main reason is I dont like the bulkiness and location of the factory cooler.

My concern is what to do about the factory coolant lines that go to the oil cooler, should I just swap to a gen 3 Tstat housing or what?

 

8 is a restriction also -10 is the correct size that needs to be used

you cut the outlets off of the housing then tap them for a 3/8's pipe plug

 

yes i know its a restriction but it will work at the minimum. where some of people are trying to tap doesnt even have a large enough hole.

-10 the the optimal size for sure.

 

The 2.0 block has a place for an oil cooler but it's different than the lsj one. Zzp sent me a new cooler when I bought my gen 3 motor from them.

 

i thought you bought an ldk? ldk is still considered a gen 2 if im not mistaken since its essentially an lnf. either way im pretty sure the gen 3 some blocks have oil coolers for the 2.0 regardless. its like the older le5s some have them some dont.

none the less as ive seen on the forums you cant just drill and tap the holes either for the exsisting oil cooler. if you did that there wouldnt be any pressure. gm has a sleeve in there ive had to machine before to make the non oil cooled block adapt for a oil cooler.

 

I have talked to Mr B about cutting off the oil filter housing and mounting it there with a remote mount filter. I was wanting to see everyone else's before hacking of a part of the block haha

 

No point in hacking it off

 

To have a supply and return? That's what I am trying to figure out how others have done it

 

there is a lot of good in hacking it off more oil volume is delivered to the engine with a -10 fitting

 

You can take the old cooler off and weld fittings. Works just as good.

 

Did that on a broken LNF block, looked pretty cool but there's not a lot of room to put a remote filter in that area. Better off keeping the stock filter and either not worrying about a cooler or running a factory style one.

 

the oil feed inside the oil filter housing is not to swift

 

Plan wasn't to put it in Stock location

 

To be fair, you can cut the opening up which had been done in my block.