Previous EVO owner w/ Questions
Previous EVO owner w/ Questions
I just totalled my evo and bought a SC 05 SS . So far I love the room to work with under the hood and supposedly from what I've read...this engine is hella strong and can take some severe beatings. I just ordered my S2 kit and look forward to getting the S3 once this is installed. Ill be getting plenty of aftermarket parts for this and am looking to get some different pistons in this thing eventually. My questions would be as follows:
-Where can I get the parts for swapping out the parts in the engine to make the engine capable of holding more than 300+ HP????? Pistons etc.
-What clutch/flywheel combos are offered for this car?
thanks BRYAN
-Where can I get the parts for swapping out the parts in the engine to make the engine capable of holding more than 300+ HP????? Pistons etc.
-What clutch/flywheel combos are offered for this car?
thanks BRYAN
http://www.cobalt-addiction.com/index2.html here's a start dude!
ps.... i love my cobalt ss/sc but it's not gonna keep up with an evo! so i hope you didn't think it would! :p not without some serious money anyways lol.
Check out jbodyperformance.com, they have many internal parts, and it really doesnt take alot of money to keep up with a stock evo in a ss/sc if you can drive, i took out countless moded evo's in my old cobalt.
oh and to just prove my point -
name five parts that you have actually bought from JBP.
then state how each failed you in giving you performance.
then state what part would be a better choice that actually delivers performance.
My impression is you look at the price and just choke.....LOL
My suggestion is instead of getting internals get to the route of the problem. The supercharger is going to be your downfall and unless you are thinking about stage 3 with the nitrous you are probably going to need pistons. If you do get nitrous with stage 3 you will be walking all over that 300whp mark, and eating up evo's.
Most people are going with diamond pistons and having good luck.
If you don't plan on using the nitrous function I suggest that you go for a power adder swap and get a 50 trim. For that you won't need new pistons and you will get to about the same power levels. All in all I'm guessing it will cost the same but it will require a lot more work.
I don't know why but a lot of people on this sight are evo scared. I've ran some modified ones and beat them and I am pretty conservative so far with my mods.
Most people are going with diamond pistons and having good luck.
If you don't plan on using the nitrous function I suggest that you go for a power adder swap and get a 50 trim. For that you won't need new pistons and you will get to about the same power levels. All in all I'm guessing it will cost the same but it will require a lot more work.
I don't know why but a lot of people on this sight are evo scared. I've ran some modified ones and beat them and I am pretty conservative so far with my mods.
Last edited by Maxim_X; Aug 11, 2007 at 12:08 PM.
My suggestion is instead of getting internals get to the route of the problem. The supercharger is going to be your downfall and unless you are thinking about stage 3 with the nitrous you are probably not going to need pistons. If you do get nitrous with stage 3 you will be walking all over that 300whp mark, and eating up evo's.
Most people are going with diamond pistons and having good luck.
If you don't plan on using the nitrous function I suggest that you go for a power adder swap and get a 50 trim. For that you won't need new pistons and you will get to about the same power levels. All in all I'm guessing it will cost the same but it will require a lot more work.
I don't know why but a lot of people on this sight are evo scared. I've ran some modified ones and beat them and I am pretty conservative so far with my mods.
Most people are going with diamond pistons and having good luck.
If you don't plan on using the nitrous function I suggest that you go for a power adder swap and get a 50 trim. For that you won't need new pistons and you will get to about the same power levels. All in all I'm guessing it will cost the same but it will require a lot more work.
I don't know why but a lot of people on this sight are evo scared. I've ran some modified ones and beat them and I am pretty conservative so far with my mods.
we dont have evos in canada. will soon have the evoX in spring '08 though. I have run up against quite a few of WRX modified and a few STI's. there is only one WRX modified that gave me a problem. I have seen an STI at a track that I could not even come close too. but that is changing. I am getting closer to that kind of performance. Plans are to get there. I hope to do it with a supercharger but I am open to turbo. a friend of mine is in the middle of building a turbo cobalt and I am watching closely. it just maybe easier to go that route. we'll see. I have to compare compressor maps.
, pistons , headstuds , headgasket, turbo , wideband , 60 lbers , hp tuners, all the traction mods possible , good tires , stage 2 axels , manifold back exhaust , clutch FOR SURE , and after that , your gonna be about 7-10K in the hole running mid 12's
^^ better to be safe than sorry, i guess.. but with the hahn sheet metal manifold, the air will be properly distributed through all cylinders, and the chance of losing the #4 ringland will be far lower.
then add $400 for some n2o and run mid 12s (you'll already have all forged internals.. so why not, right?
that setup would be a highway beast. practically unbeatable.. (not unbeatable, but how often would you run into somone who could take you down.. ya know?)
i would get pistons anyways
, pistons , headstuds , headgasket, turbo , wideband , 60 lbers , hp tuners, all the traction mods possible , good tires , stage 2 axels , manifold back exhaust , clutch FOR SURE , and after that , your gonna be about 7-10K in the hole running mid 12's
, pistons , headstuds , headgasket, turbo , wideband , 60 lbers , hp tuners, all the traction mods possible , good tires , stage 2 axels , manifold back exhaust , clutch FOR SURE , and after that , your gonna be about 7-10K in the hole running mid 12's
that setup would be a highway beast. practically unbeatable.. (not unbeatable, but how often would you run into somone who could take you down.. ya know?)
Last edited by chevysalesman614; Aug 11, 2007 at 12:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Welcome ex-evo owner. Don't waste your time with Stage 3. It voids your warranty, and isn't that great. Instead, buy stage 2, and get a 2.85 inch pully from Nate, a member here on this site. If you REALLY want to be fast though, save up for the turbo upgrade, or twinscrew sc upgrade. You can do sso much more with a turbo. 320+ whp.
Good luck man, sorry about your evo, but at least you like the balt enough to get it after you evo.
Good luck man, sorry about your evo, but at least you like the balt enough to get it after you evo.
^^ better to be safe than sorry, i guess.. but with the hahn sheet metal manifold, the air will be properly distributed through all cylinders, and the chance of losing the #4 ringland will be far lower.
then add $400 for some n2o and run mid 12s (you'll already have all forged internals.. so why not, right?
that setup would be a highway beast. practically unbeatable.. (not unbeatable, but how often would you run into somone who could take you down.. ya know?)
then add $400 for some n2o and run mid 12s (you'll already have all forged internals.. so why not, right?
that setup would be a highway beast. practically unbeatable.. (not unbeatable, but how often would you run into somone who could take you down.. ya know?)
point is , if you go Stage 2 and THEN , go 2.6 and all the supporting mods , your stage 2 becomes 100% worthless and your out 750-1000 , i mean yeah you can reuse or sell the stage 2 hub and pulley but for what 100 dollars max ?? and you cant sell the tune , and you cant sell the labor hours in which you paid for a certified tech to install it , stage 2 is for people that are gonna stay stage 2 not try and run 12's or 11's , stage 2 shouldnt even be in your conversation at that point , your gonna spend about 3-4 K and you really havent even scratched the surface because your stilll on the stock blower, i wouldnt TOUCH the blower if you plan on going turbo , thats just a ton of wasted money that could be put towards the turbo
but what do i know , lates
i have found myself in complete agreement with you. 
i think upgrading the stock blower is a complete waste of money (unless you have an affection for high 13 second timeslips
you could just save up and go turbo. safer, more power
i think upgrading the stock blower is a complete waste of money (unless you have an affection for high 13 second timeslips
you could just save up and go turbo. safer, more power
Well you can probably get away wiht building you own for about 3k.
Manifold 200
turbo 600
wga 200
bov 120
Piping 200
Various machined peices: 500
HP tuners 600
injectors 200
dual pass and cobra 225
Extra stuff like flanges and gaskets 500
About 3k if you do it yourself
more for labor
If you know someone who can tune cut hptuners out of the equation.
I have a shop (SMG Autosports... a sight vendor) helping me with a lot of things and I already have injectors and HP tuners and dual pass. so Its a little cheaper for me but the money isn't ridiculous if you take your time and do it right.
Manifold 200
turbo 600
wga 200
bov 120
Piping 200
Various machined peices: 500
HP tuners 600
injectors 200
dual pass and cobra 225
Extra stuff like flanges and gaskets 500
About 3k if you do it yourself
more for labor
If you know someone who can tune cut hptuners out of the equation.
I have a shop (SMG Autosports... a sight vendor) helping me with a lot of things and I already have injectors and HP tuners and dual pass. so Its a little cheaper for me but the money isn't ridiculous if you take your time and do it right.
Well you can probably get away wiht building you own for about 3k.
Manifold 200
turbo 600
wga 200
bov 120
Piping 200
Various machined peices: 500
HP tuners 600
injectors 200
dual pass and cobra 225
Extra stuff like flanges and gaskets 500
About 3k if you do it yourself
more for labor
If you know someone who can tune cut hptuners out of the equation.
I have a shop (SMG Autosports... a sight vendor) helping me with a lot of things and I already have injectors and HP tuners and dual pass. so Its a little cheaper for me but the money isn't ridiculous if you take your time and do it right.
Manifold 200
turbo 600
wga 200
bov 120
Piping 200
Various machined peices: 500
HP tuners 600
injectors 200
dual pass and cobra 225
Extra stuff like flanges and gaskets 500
About 3k if you do it yourself
more for labor
If you know someone who can tune cut hptuners out of the equation.
I have a shop (SMG Autosports... a sight vendor) helping me with a lot of things and I already have injectors and HP tuners and dual pass. so Its a little cheaper for me but the money isn't ridiculous if you take your time and do it right.
Why wouldn't you ditch the heat exchanger and dual pass and go with a nice front mount intercooler for the turbo? I am very interested in this topic as well since I came from and evo and now have a balt. Long story short, the evo is a money pit!!!
have a look at this thread:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/2-0-turbo-baby-62312/
Last edited by chevysalesman614; Aug 20, 2007 at 11:55 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
the ss/sc comes with a 4 core laminova intercooler which is very effecient at cooling charged air so people end up getting the dual pass and cobra h/e which together can net you about 30-40 degrees total difference from stock which isn't as much as a huge front mount but then again most big front mounts are used to replace much much smaller i/c's when you wanna run big boost such as 500hp monsters. I have seen differences of 100-140 degrees difference in temps from stock to huge front mounts when cars are trying to push over 500hp so if you keep that in mind 30-40 degrees difference is easily enough for an intercooler that already does an great job at cooling charged air.
I believe our water to air kit w/ dual pass and H/e is more than sufficient for the task of cooling the turbo. A turbo puts out much less heat than a supercharger, and it cools my S/C fine.
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