Running 10.5:1 pistons
LSX RWD S/C conversion
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Joined: 03-25-05
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From: Maple Ridge, BC, Canada
How much boost is he running and i imagine he's using the stock eaton. If i tried to run 10:1 and 20psi from a 1.6L whipple on shitty az 91 octane the engine would explode within minutes.
obtw, would you kinda point me in the direction of a post where I say I HAVE 300whp, I'm roundabouts but never said 100% that I was anything beside what my last dyno said and that was with a 2.7", no timing & a 10.4 A/F so me saying I have more than I did then is more than acceptable.
Also, your blower porting is asinine
I bought 10:5:1 pistons which Rob Archer told me he was going to do before he had to get rid of the car. Now after reading everything and I talked to Todd at Intense I don't know if I want them anymore. Should I sell them or give them a try? I really don't want to run 100 octane. I run only 94 now so I don't really want to go above that. Any advice would be appreciated.
stick with stock compression or lower and go turbo... best way to make power plain and simple on the these motors.... no arguments about it. Unless you want to stay s/c'd... then well... we've had this argument before.
We dont know he is waiting for it to get tuned so as he does i am sure he will post a thread on here about it
You are correct. The pistons are a Mahle hypereutectic alloy.
You can get away running 14:1 pistons it just depends on how much boost you wanna run.
You can get away running 14:1 pistons it just depends on how much boost you wanna run.
Last edited by AlphaJaguar5; Jun 22, 2007 at 04:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You are going to run into ignition trouble with too much compression. Richer than rich best torque and high compression and you substantially increase your chances of spark issues.
Which in that case would be zero. Not even race cars use that high compression with boost. The 1450 hp ecotec motor uses 10.8:1 compression and over 50 psi boost. Top fuel motors run a whopping 7.5:1 compression and 45 psi boost!
ALL my mods in my garage....please look before responding..........
sooooooo.... I just got the 10.5:1 with all coating for a good deal... a really good deal
.
NOW my problem is I can only get 91 octane. Should I lower my comprerssion? I plan on starting with about 10psi. Then get the fuel and spark right. From there I'll adjust boost/fuel/spark accordingly.
My HG is the last thing to get before the engine goes back together......I could really use the imput....thanks
sooooooo.... I just got the 10.5:1 with all coating for a good deal... a really good deal
NOW my problem is I can only get 91 octane. Should I lower my comprerssion? I plan on starting with about 10psi. Then get the fuel and spark right. From there I'll adjust boost/fuel/spark accordingly.
My HG is the last thing to get before the engine goes back together......I could really use the imput....thanks
ALL my mods in my garage....please look before responding..........
sooooooo.... I just got the 10.5:1 with all coating for a good deal... a really good deal
.
NOW my problem is I can only get 91 octane. Should I lower my comprerssion? I plan on starting with about 10psi. Then get the fuel and spark right. From there I'll adjust boost/fuel/spark accordingly.
My HG is the last thing to get before the engine goes back together......I could really use the imput....thanks
sooooooo.... I just got the 10.5:1 with all coating for a good deal... a really good deal
NOW my problem is I can only get 91 octane. Should I lower my comprerssion? I plan on starting with about 10psi. Then get the fuel and spark right. From there I'll adjust boost/fuel/spark accordingly.
My HG is the last thing to get before the engine goes back together......I could really use the imput....thanks
If you have too high of an effective compression you may run into spark blowout issues and might have to upgrade your ignition system. I increased my static compressiojn to 10-1 myself and my 272 cams brought my effective compression right back down to stock levels. However, increasing redline to 8k rpms brought forth new spark issues that I have solved by increasing spark dwell time, however its at a cost of significantly decreased coil life span.
All in all, its a pain in the ass no matter what you do. I'm sure no matter what, you can solve the problems with a little bit of tuning.
Here's what I found, everything except the lobe seperation angle, I would probably ignore the secondary intake specs as they are "milder" then the primaries, but I'm no expert in this:
PRIMARY INTAKE
ADV
264* 418L
@.050
209*
SECONDARY INTAKE
ADV
256* 417L
@.050
202*
PRIMARY EXHAUST
ADV
256* 417L
@.050
202*
Last edited by Witt; Jul 13, 2007 at 04:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I had the .040 on there last time....that's all cometic made at the time. The timing chain fit fine. I don't understand how a thicker HG produces knock. Little info please.
Some engines have quench style pistons and heads. Ecotecs are not that type. No more than .045" clearance is needed for proper quench, something the Ecotec lacks.
^^ so increasing the HG thickness won't screw up my build? I think I'm going to go with the .040" HG anyways.
This is going to sound dumb but.......I have to ask:
could I add octane booster to increase octane levels so that I can run 10.5:1 w/ a .027"??
This is going to sound dumb but.......I have to ask:
could I add octane booster to increase octane levels so that I can run 10.5:1 w/ a .027"??


